Monday, May 25th (Memorial Day) - Up at 6:00, grabbed another shower, and headed back to the Dairy Queen for breakfast. Got back at 7:00 and immediately started typing up blog reports again, sending several off to Pete as soon as I had them done. Got a call from Mark around 10:40 or so - turned out they were already in the parking lot! So he and Brenda made pretty good time from Arlington. I spent a few more minutes finishing up a report, and we headed back to their car. Once we got Mark's stuff (and my new Therm-a-Rest) up to the room, and gave Brenda my old Therm-a-Rest and a few more minor items, she took off (didn't even want lunch); probably a good decision at the end of a holiday weekend with heavy thunderstorms expected.
Mark and I reviewed our trail plans, and decided to take 5 days to our next stop (about 70 miles up the trail). After inventorying our food, we headed over to Hardee's for lunch. Back at the room, we made our respective grocery lists and headed across the street to the Food Lion for resupply. We also checked out a Chinese restaurant nearby, and we'll probably hit it for dinner later tonight. I also briefly checked a Goodwill store for another T-Shirt (one of mine is dying), but all they had was cotton, so I passed. Something for the next CARE package from Marco, I guess, or maybe I'll wait til I get to Northern Virginia and take a couple of days off at home.
Dropped my groceries back at the room, and headed down for another set of blog reports, bringing me up to today (finally caught up!), which should please Pete and the various "followers." Back at the room, Mark was napping, so I semi-quietly sorted all the groceries, then did some laundry in the sink and hung it out on the rail (under cover, outside our room) to dry. Moderately threatening weather, but no rain yet. Appear to be quite a lot of hikers coming into the hotel, including some familiar faces; guess the fast-hikers among the Damascus crowd is starting to catch us. Finally got some rain showers, some heavy.
Mark eventually roused and we watched the last of Star Wars Episode V, then headed to the Chinese restaurant for dinner, dodging the raindrops on the way (we ate the buffet - decent). Back at the hotel, we chatted briefly with the Birds group, then with One Step when he came in (suffering from a lot of blisters, and still has to see the dentist (tomorrow, he says)). Mark repacked his pack, while I did one last blog report. Then I re-packed as well. We're planning on doing a short (7 mile) hike tomorrow, maybe 12 - 15 miles on Wednesday, to get Mark back into the groove slowly. Hopefully my own leg issues will appreciate the break too!
Monday, May 25, 2009
Day 51 - A Nero Into a Zero in Pearisburg
Sunday, May 24th - Got up at 5:45 am at Doc's Knob Shelter, overcast skies, 58 degrees. Quick packup and gone by 6:15, with farewells to Dick Brown. 8 1/2 miles to Pearisburg. First 6 miles pretty easy - mostly an old road/trail followed by moderate ups and downs along a ridgeline trail. Right shin still hurting, though not as bad as yesterday (yet).
Misty and gray, with occasional drops of rain, but nothing of note. Two sets of deer this morning - 2 or 3 went crashing through the brush to my left about 2 hours in (just after I finished eating a quick breakfast), then 2 more who crossed behind me about an hour later. A big disappointment was no views at various overlooks, including"Angel's Rest," supposed to offer a fabulous view of the valley. Well, nothing but another sea of gray. Very steep descent down from Angel's Rest to Bluff City/Pearisburg, and my shin starting barking again. I am committed now to take tomorrow (Memorial Day Monday) off, and give my body a break to heal up some. Made the road at 10:15, decent time for the distance. Naturally, the clouds that had socked in the mountain just an hour before were now breaking up, and it was turning into a pretty nice day.
Decided against the Rendezvous Hotel (located right at the trailhead), since they had no Internet, and I have much typing to do to catch up on the blog reports and recover from the power failure in Bland. Called the Holiday Motor Lodge and reserved a room, no shuttle, and no one picking up hikers today (I tried for about 15 minutes), so I ended up hiking it in - lucky for me it was only about a mile. Only $38 a night, and in fact they gave me a double. Got cleaned up, then hit the local Dairy Queen for lunch. Checked email, and fired off a status email to Pete and Pauline, but the time limit is 30 minutes with people waiting, and several people were waiting to check their email before heading backout.
The rest of the afternoon was spent making phone calls, typing up blog reports (in 30 minute intervals), and sorting my gear; though quite tired, I resisted taking a nap. Various other hikers were at the hotel, coming and going, including the Birds (with Chachee (sp?)back in tow), plus the two guys that Mark and I had met back at the Virginia Inn in Marion, plus a few other vaguely familiar faces. Pearisburg is the last full service town for about 60 - 65 miles, so just about everyone stops here for at least a day, because it's 3 days minimum to get to the Roanoke area (more like 5 days for us).
Talked to Pete on the phone, and he gave me some good news in that he had managed to buy one of these new Therm-a-Rests for me at Casual Adventure (he got the last one they had in my size). Then I got a call from Mark, and after we discussed my desire to take a zero day here tomorrow (Monday), he decided to meet me here instead of on the trail. He sounds much more confident about his leg now. So he and Brenda will meet me at the hotel around noon or so. And he'll bring my new Therm-a-Rest too (and Brenda can take my old one home). So, things are looking up!
I hit the Hardee's for dinner, and called Mark again about our hiking plans and how much food to buy (how many days worth, an important decision since we were going to be doing short days to start, and it was a long way to the next grocery stop). Then I walked over to the Food Lion (in a large strip mall across the street), but didn't get food yet, but rather just bought more ibuprofen, Neosporin, and batteries (for the SteriPen). Back to the hotel, I typed up one more blog report, then transcribed a few more days worth for tomorrow. Decided to hit the rack around 10:30 - I realized as I turned off the light that I hadn't turned on the TV since I had arrived, not even for the Weather Channel. I guess I really am ready for a break!
Misty and gray, with occasional drops of rain, but nothing of note. Two sets of deer this morning - 2 or 3 went crashing through the brush to my left about 2 hours in (just after I finished eating a quick breakfast), then 2 more who crossed behind me about an hour later. A big disappointment was no views at various overlooks, including"Angel's Rest," supposed to offer a fabulous view of the valley. Well, nothing but another sea of gray. Very steep descent down from Angel's Rest to Bluff City/Pearisburg, and my shin starting barking again. I am committed now to take tomorrow (Memorial Day Monday) off, and give my body a break to heal up some. Made the road at 10:15, decent time for the distance. Naturally, the clouds that had socked in the mountain just an hour before were now breaking up, and it was turning into a pretty nice day.
Decided against the Rendezvous Hotel (located right at the trailhead), since they had no Internet, and I have much typing to do to catch up on the blog reports and recover from the power failure in Bland. Called the Holiday Motor Lodge and reserved a room, no shuttle, and no one picking up hikers today (I tried for about 15 minutes), so I ended up hiking it in - lucky for me it was only about a mile. Only $38 a night, and in fact they gave me a double. Got cleaned up, then hit the local Dairy Queen for lunch. Checked email, and fired off a status email to Pete and Pauline, but the time limit is 30 minutes with people waiting, and several people were waiting to check their email before heading backout.
The rest of the afternoon was spent making phone calls, typing up blog reports (in 30 minute intervals), and sorting my gear; though quite tired, I resisted taking a nap. Various other hikers were at the hotel, coming and going, including the Birds (with Chachee (sp?)back in tow), plus the two guys that Mark and I had met back at the Virginia Inn in Marion, plus a few other vaguely familiar faces. Pearisburg is the last full service town for about 60 - 65 miles, so just about everyone stops here for at least a day, because it's 3 days minimum to get to the Roanoke area (more like 5 days for us).
Talked to Pete on the phone, and he gave me some good news in that he had managed to buy one of these new Therm-a-Rests for me at Casual Adventure (he got the last one they had in my size). Then I got a call from Mark, and after we discussed my desire to take a zero day here tomorrow (Monday), he decided to meet me here instead of on the trail. He sounds much more confident about his leg now. So he and Brenda will meet me at the hotel around noon or so. And he'll bring my new Therm-a-Rest too (and Brenda can take my old one home). So, things are looking up!
I hit the Hardee's for dinner, and called Mark again about our hiking plans and how much food to buy (how many days worth, an important decision since we were going to be doing short days to start, and it was a long way to the next grocery stop). Then I walked over to the Food Lion (in a large strip mall across the street), but didn't get food yet, but rather just bought more ibuprofen, Neosporin, and batteries (for the SteriPen). Back to the hotel, I typed up one more blog report, then transcribed a few more days worth for tomorrow. Decided to hit the rack around 10:30 - I realized as I turned off the light that I hadn't turned on the TV since I had arrived, not even for the Weather Channel. I guess I really am ready for a break!
Day 50 - Another Long Day's Hike
Saturday, May 23rd - (At Jenny's Knob Shelter) - Got up at 5:45, clear but quite damp; I guess we were just at or above the dew point by dawn, so the humidity was just starting to condense out out on everything. Hiked hard for about 2 hours, then stopped for breakfast at a nice overlook (actually I forced myself to stop, since I was doing so well).
Once again drinking a lot of water. Crossed "Dismal Creek" (what a name!) and its tributaries multiple times, so water wasn't a problem for the first part of the day. Leapfrogged several times with Windbreaker (Patrick, the former Philmont staffer at Rich Cabins). Got to Wapiti Shelter (about 14 miles in) and ate lunch there, now noticeably hot (1st time over 80 on my thermometer); no one else there, but another sectional hiker arrived just as I was leaving. Just after Wapiti, the trail climbed about 1500 feet over about 2 miles to get back up on the ridge. Tough hiking in the heat of the day - and no more water once I reached the top of the ridge, either. So back to water-rationing again, a few swallows every 30 minutes.
No butterflies today, so I guess May 22nd was the big dance, and I hope no one missed it! But I did have two "interesting" bits of Trail Magic: First, I began hearing banjo music (shades of Deliverance, perhaps?), and about a quarter mile later I found Patrick playing his trail banjo at a rock overlook with a great view of the valley below. He's pretty good, actually! Then an hour or so later I came up on Patrick again, photographing a deer near the side of the trail - but when I walked up, it turned out he was photographing a newborn fawn, still wet and barely able to stand up yet. Something I have never seen in all my years in the woods. The doe (a quite large doe, I will add), was watching us from about 20 feet away, but didn't seem all that concerned about our presence. Nonetheless, I decided against taking off my pack, which I felt might startle or agitate her, and we moved on a minute later. So no photos for me, but a pretty amazing interlude anyway.
As we climbed further up the ridge, the trail deteriorated again - very rocky, especially from Horse Gap to Sugar Gap to Doc's Knob Shelter, and my right shin and left knee both started complaining pretty loudly. Let's just say that taking a zero day in Pearisburg was looking more attractive with each step. Patrick split off at Sugar Gap to go to the Wood's Hole Hostel, which had been advertised in shelters and at road crossings for 20 miles. I suspected that most northbounders would be going there, but since I was planning to be in Pearisburg the next day, a hostel stay didn't seem worth it. The situation with my right shin, and a steep, half-mile long downhill to the hostel, both played a role in that decision!
As it turned out, I was alone in pushing on past the hostel. Finally reached Doc's Knob Shelter just before 7:00 pm, pretty good for 23 miles (for me, anyway). That makes just over 100 miles in 5 days, which for me is pushing pretty hard. There was a single southbound sectional hiker at the shelter, Dick Brown, about 60 years old; he had through-hiked the A.T. about 10 years ago. Nice guy. No one else showed up, so I'm guessing Wood's Hole was doing a booming business. Checked the Register - Yoon had come through 8 days before, Happy 4 days before, and others I know (Salty Dog, Thunderpants and Sis, Rusty, Holdout, etc.) were all 1 or 2 days in front of me. Drank a liter and a half of water with dinner, and needed it. Hit the rack around 8:45, with the intent to get up at 5:30 am and push on into town early. A good day but another long one.
Once again drinking a lot of water. Crossed "Dismal Creek" (what a name!) and its tributaries multiple times, so water wasn't a problem for the first part of the day. Leapfrogged several times with Windbreaker (Patrick, the former Philmont staffer at Rich Cabins). Got to Wapiti Shelter (about 14 miles in) and ate lunch there, now noticeably hot (1st time over 80 on my thermometer); no one else there, but another sectional hiker arrived just as I was leaving. Just after Wapiti, the trail climbed about 1500 feet over about 2 miles to get back up on the ridge. Tough hiking in the heat of the day - and no more water once I reached the top of the ridge, either. So back to water-rationing again, a few swallows every 30 minutes.
No butterflies today, so I guess May 22nd was the big dance, and I hope no one missed it! But I did have two "interesting" bits of Trail Magic: First, I began hearing banjo music (shades of Deliverance, perhaps?), and about a quarter mile later I found Patrick playing his trail banjo at a rock overlook with a great view of the valley below. He's pretty good, actually! Then an hour or so later I came up on Patrick again, photographing a deer near the side of the trail - but when I walked up, it turned out he was photographing a newborn fawn, still wet and barely able to stand up yet. Something I have never seen in all my years in the woods. The doe (a quite large doe, I will add), was watching us from about 20 feet away, but didn't seem all that concerned about our presence. Nonetheless, I decided against taking off my pack, which I felt might startle or agitate her, and we moved on a minute later. So no photos for me, but a pretty amazing interlude anyway.
As we climbed further up the ridge, the trail deteriorated again - very rocky, especially from Horse Gap to Sugar Gap to Doc's Knob Shelter, and my right shin and left knee both started complaining pretty loudly. Let's just say that taking a zero day in Pearisburg was looking more attractive with each step. Patrick split off at Sugar Gap to go to the Wood's Hole Hostel, which had been advertised in shelters and at road crossings for 20 miles. I suspected that most northbounders would be going there, but since I was planning to be in Pearisburg the next day, a hostel stay didn't seem worth it. The situation with my right shin, and a steep, half-mile long downhill to the hostel, both played a role in that decision!
As it turned out, I was alone in pushing on past the hostel. Finally reached Doc's Knob Shelter just before 7:00 pm, pretty good for 23 miles (for me, anyway). That makes just over 100 miles in 5 days, which for me is pushing pretty hard. There was a single southbound sectional hiker at the shelter, Dick Brown, about 60 years old; he had through-hiked the A.T. about 10 years ago. Nice guy. No one else showed up, so I'm guessing Wood's Hole was doing a booming business. Checked the Register - Yoon had come through 8 days before, Happy 4 days before, and others I know (Salty Dog, Thunderpants and Sis, Rusty, Holdout, etc.) were all 1 or 2 days in front of me. Drank a liter and a half of water with dinner, and needed it. Hit the rack around 8:45, with the intent to get up at 5:30 am and push on into town early. A good day but another long one.
Day 49 - Bland 'til mid-day, then back at it ...
Friday, May 22nd - Up at 6:00, wishing for more sleep. Leg doing a little better, but still twinging. Over to the Dairy Queen for breakfast, and did most of my shopping at the associated Kangaroo Mini-Mart. Back to the room, sorted food into individual meal packets, then spent an hour transcribing blog reports. At 8:30, got the hotel shuttle guy ("Bubba") to take me to the Post Office, where I picked up my package from Marco. Then walked to the local IGA and picked up some cheese (the only thing not at the Kangaroo mart). Then to the library, where I continued transcribing til it opened at 9:30. Checked email, sent my upcoming trail plans to Mark so we can link back up next week, and started typing up blog reports to Pete. The disaster struck at 10:30, when a widespread power failure hit Bland, Bastians, and another local town, and 3 days of reports vanished into the ether; arrgh! I was maybe 5 minutes away from sending and heading back to the hotel; great timing, eh? I waited about 20 minutes in the forlorn hope that maybe I could recover the data, but finally decided I was wasting my time as the extent of the power failure became clearer.
Got a hitch across town to the Subway, where they were still serving food. Quite a line there, including a sports team of some sort, all wearing red West Virginia Chaos T-Shirts, but all speaking in heavy English accents. [So I'm guessing they either won the shirts, or received them as gifts.] Once I finished eating I headed back up to the hotel to re-pack - somewhat more leisurely than planned, because my shuttle driver back to the trail had had to go to a town 20 miles away for something, due to the power failure. Fortunately I could still see in the room, with the door open and blinds pulled back. The power came back on at 12:30 - I called the librarian and she confirmed that my data was lost when their computers rebooted; oh well....
By now it was quite hot and humid, so I drank about a liter of water and filled both my canteens all the way. My ride arrived at 12:45, and immediately took me back to the trailhead, dropping me off at just about 1:00 pm. Several hikers were hiking down the hill to town (including Criqui I think), and about 5 - 6 more were gathered at the trailhead, having just arrived - one took advantage and grabbed my shuttle back to town. I chatted for about 5 minutes with the others,
letting them know what was where in town, then I saddled up and moved out.
Unfortunately the road section back down to the trailhead (from 52 north) was atrociously blazed, and I was reduced to guessing where the trail was supposed to be in several places (the map and A.T. Companion didn't help). I ended up guessing wrong in one place and hiked 20 minutes up a steep hill before deciding this couldn't be right. Going back, I finally found another very faint blaze after about 150 yards, and that confirmed I was (finally) on the right route. This entire section could be re-done in 15 minutes by anyone with a car and a can of white paint, so this was really totally ridiculous, especially on a hot day where water turned out to be at a premium. Even the first couple of miles of the actual trail was poorly blazed, with old, faint blazes very widely spaced. Certainly the poorest job I have seen since starting the trek.
The trail itself was pretty decent, however, and once I got going I made it the 2 1/2 miles to Helveys Mill Shelter in short order. Got one form of trail magic today, with hundreds of large, black-purple butterflies doing their mating dances; quite pretty. The shelter was back nearly a third of a mile, and the water another long downhill from there, but I didn't have much choice today, because it was a 10 mile hike coming up, very hot, and with little or no water sources along the way. I drank a liter on site, and filled both canteens up to the brim. And a lucky thing, because it indeed was a 10 mile dry hole, with every streambed dry (not even mud). I rationed my water to a couple of swallows every 30 minutes, and made it to the Jenny's Knob Shelter around 7:00 pm, with about 2 cups left; I'm guessing a lot of people hiked themselves dry today.
The shelter was about a quarter mile off the trail, Windbreaker and One Step were there, that was it. There were two blue-blazed trails there; since the guys said that the one source was just a little pool, I tried the other first - another long downhill to yet another dry streambed. So back up to the shelter and over to the other source, a 3 x 3 foot shallow pool, but clear and cold water, so clearly spring-fed, not just a seepage; Thank You Lord! We all ate dinner; One Step was surprised to lose an entire filling while eating; fortunately he didn't swallow it, but he'll have to get off the trail for repair. Cas showed up around 8:20, nearly dark. We listened to Appalachian Folk Music on a local radio station, and hit the rack around 10 pm. Even with only 12 miles today, my right shin is still barking.
Got a hitch across town to the Subway, where they were still serving food. Quite a line there, including a sports team of some sort, all wearing red West Virginia Chaos T-Shirts, but all speaking in heavy English accents. [So I'm guessing they either won the shirts, or received them as gifts.] Once I finished eating I headed back up to the hotel to re-pack - somewhat more leisurely than planned, because my shuttle driver back to the trail had had to go to a town 20 miles away for something, due to the power failure. Fortunately I could still see in the room, with the door open and blinds pulled back. The power came back on at 12:30 - I called the librarian and she confirmed that my data was lost when their computers rebooted; oh well....
By now it was quite hot and humid, so I drank about a liter of water and filled both my canteens all the way. My ride arrived at 12:45, and immediately took me back to the trailhead, dropping me off at just about 1:00 pm. Several hikers were hiking down the hill to town (including Criqui I think), and about 5 - 6 more were gathered at the trailhead, having just arrived - one took advantage and grabbed my shuttle back to town. I chatted for about 5 minutes with the others,
letting them know what was where in town, then I saddled up and moved out.
Unfortunately the road section back down to the trailhead (from 52 north) was atrociously blazed, and I was reduced to guessing where the trail was supposed to be in several places (the map and A.T. Companion didn't help). I ended up guessing wrong in one place and hiked 20 minutes up a steep hill before deciding this couldn't be right. Going back, I finally found another very faint blaze after about 150 yards, and that confirmed I was (finally) on the right route. This entire section could be re-done in 15 minutes by anyone with a car and a can of white paint, so this was really totally ridiculous, especially on a hot day where water turned out to be at a premium. Even the first couple of miles of the actual trail was poorly blazed, with old, faint blazes very widely spaced. Certainly the poorest job I have seen since starting the trek.
The trail itself was pretty decent, however, and once I got going I made it the 2 1/2 miles to Helveys Mill Shelter in short order. Got one form of trail magic today, with hundreds of large, black-purple butterflies doing their mating dances; quite pretty. The shelter was back nearly a third of a mile, and the water another long downhill from there, but I didn't have much choice today, because it was a 10 mile hike coming up, very hot, and with little or no water sources along the way. I drank a liter on site, and filled both canteens up to the brim. And a lucky thing, because it indeed was a 10 mile dry hole, with every streambed dry (not even mud). I rationed my water to a couple of swallows every 30 minutes, and made it to the Jenny's Knob Shelter around 7:00 pm, with about 2 cups left; I'm guessing a lot of people hiked themselves dry today.
The shelter was about a quarter mile off the trail, Windbreaker and One Step were there, that was it. There were two blue-blazed trails there; since the guys said that the one source was just a little pool, I tried the other first - another long downhill to yet another dry streambed. So back up to the shelter and over to the other source, a 3 x 3 foot shallow pool, but clear and cold water, so clearly spring-fed, not just a seepage; Thank You Lord! We all ate dinner; One Step was surprised to lose an entire filling while eating; fortunately he didn't swallow it, but he'll have to get off the trail for repair. Cas showed up around 8:20, nearly dark. We listened to Appalachian Folk Music on a local radio station, and hit the rack around 10 pm. Even with only 12 miles today, my right shin is still barking.
Day 48 - Pounding out the miles into Bland
Thursday, May 21st - (At Chestnut Knob Shelter) - Up at 5:40, windy and chilly, thin overcast but fading away as the sun rose. Ate breakfast in the shelter, and we all discussed who was doing what - Rocket was planning on a 33 mile day, to which I can only say "Ouch." Holdout and Big Tuna were also planning on going past Bland (to a shelter about 2 1/2 miles past the town), but were keeping their options open. I was thinking about stopping short of Bland, at Jenkins Shelter, and nero-ing in the next day, or going all the way if I could hack it with my leg.
On my way at 6:30, the first one out. Early on I had a few more sessions of that May Fly hatch, which I enjoyed. Saw a bunch of deer today, at least 7 in 4 different groups or solos. Also passed 3 southbounders, one solo and one duo, who had started at Harper's Ferry and were planning to flip-flop once they got to Springer. Also passed a trail building Crew, about 12 people, who were planning on spending the entire weekend renovating trail; I had already passed some of their handiwork earlier in the day. Of course, I expressed my appreciation to them as they passed. Having done similar work on numerous occasions in my life, I have a better appreciation than most for what it takes. And seeing them also explains why so much of Virginia's trails are in such good shape. Most of the trail today was decent, no really brutal climbs or descents, and not too rocky (for which my leg was grateful).
Got to the Jenkins Shelter and signed in, grabbed some water, and chatted with 4 hikers there. One of the things I'm noticing now is that I don't really know anyone anymore; most of the folks I know are either well ahead or well behind me now. Decided I still had a lot left in the tank, so I continued on; nice day, but with slowly increasing cloudiness. Water is clearly an issue, and many hikers are running themselves dry - I had at least 8 liters today, maybe 10 or 11 (you lose count after awhile). Passed two Trail Magics today as I climbed over the last mountain towards Bland - a Methodist Church group had laid out a cooler at the start of the climb with a bunch of Powerade type lime flavored drinks (I passed on that, having just drank a liter of water), and someone else laid out a bunch of gallon jugs of water at the end of the climb, in memory of a would be through-hiker from Lakewood, Florida, who had died 3 days before starting his trek (in 2003); that one I took advantage of.
Finally reached Rt. 52 and laid out the Spot, then read up on Bland in the Companion. Called the Big Walker Hotel and reserved a room; they didn't have a shuttle available at that time, so after the Spot was done I hitched in - took about 25 minutes because there was little traffic; most people going to Bland use the Interstate (I-77). But finally "Mike" came by in a nice pickup truck and got me to the hotel. Unfortunately he had some transmission fluid in the bed of his truck, which got on the clothes hanging on my pack. And (of course!) the nearest laundromat is 12 miles from Bland, so this will have to be a job in the sink.
Grabbed another blazing hot shower, went to Dairy Queen for dinner, and made some phone calls and text messages. Talked to Mark and he said he would come back down on Memorial Day Monday - his doc said a week off and a better anti-inflammatory (800 mgs Naproxen) should do the trick. I'm very pleased with this news! He'll start about 20 miles ahead of me, so he can start with short hikes and let me catch him. Sounds like a plan.
Back at the hotel, cleaned my stained clothes as best as I could, and laid them out. Then made a few more phone calls, and ended the day transcribing blog reports for typing up tomorrow. Right leg barking but rest (and some ice) is helping. Tomorrow will be a busy day!
On my way at 6:30, the first one out. Early on I had a few more sessions of that May Fly hatch, which I enjoyed. Saw a bunch of deer today, at least 7 in 4 different groups or solos. Also passed 3 southbounders, one solo and one duo, who had started at Harper's Ferry and were planning to flip-flop once they got to Springer. Also passed a trail building Crew, about 12 people, who were planning on spending the entire weekend renovating trail; I had already passed some of their handiwork earlier in the day. Of course, I expressed my appreciation to them as they passed. Having done similar work on numerous occasions in my life, I have a better appreciation than most for what it takes. And seeing them also explains why so much of Virginia's trails are in such good shape. Most of the trail today was decent, no really brutal climbs or descents, and not too rocky (for which my leg was grateful).
Got to the Jenkins Shelter and signed in, grabbed some water, and chatted with 4 hikers there. One of the things I'm noticing now is that I don't really know anyone anymore; most of the folks I know are either well ahead or well behind me now. Decided I still had a lot left in the tank, so I continued on; nice day, but with slowly increasing cloudiness. Water is clearly an issue, and many hikers are running themselves dry - I had at least 8 liters today, maybe 10 or 11 (you lose count after awhile). Passed two Trail Magics today as I climbed over the last mountain towards Bland - a Methodist Church group had laid out a cooler at the start of the climb with a bunch of Powerade type lime flavored drinks (I passed on that, having just drank a liter of water), and someone else laid out a bunch of gallon jugs of water at the end of the climb, in memory of a would be through-hiker from Lakewood, Florida, who had died 3 days before starting his trek (in 2003); that one I took advantage of.
Finally reached Rt. 52 and laid out the Spot, then read up on Bland in the Companion. Called the Big Walker Hotel and reserved a room; they didn't have a shuttle available at that time, so after the Spot was done I hitched in - took about 25 minutes because there was little traffic; most people going to Bland use the Interstate (I-77). But finally "Mike" came by in a nice pickup truck and got me to the hotel. Unfortunately he had some transmission fluid in the bed of his truck, which got on the clothes hanging on my pack. And (of course!) the nearest laundromat is 12 miles from Bland, so this will have to be a job in the sink.
Grabbed another blazing hot shower, went to Dairy Queen for dinner, and made some phone calls and text messages. Talked to Mark and he said he would come back down on Memorial Day Monday - his doc said a week off and a better anti-inflammatory (800 mgs Naproxen) should do the trick. I'm very pleased with this news! He'll start about 20 miles ahead of me, so he can start with short hikes and let me catch him. Sounds like a plan.
Back at the hotel, cleaned my stained clothes as best as I could, and laid them out. Then made a few more phone calls, and ended the day transcribing blog reports for typing up tomorrow. Right leg barking but rest (and some ice) is helping. Tomorrow will be a busy day!
Day 47 - 1st Solo Day is a Long One
Wednesday, May 20th - (At the Relax Inn) - Got up at 6:00 and finished packing. Mostly clear but chilly, around 45 degrees. Headed up to the Barn for breakfast, and chatted with a few hikers there (One Step, Rocket, others). Headed back to the Inn at 8:00, and back on the trail at 8:20 - 2 hours later than my normal/desired departure time, but OK as long as I don't dilly-dally along the way.
The day quickly cleared to a beautiful blue sky with a hint of a cloud. Lot of field walking today, through various pastures, and over a lot of cattle guards - in fact I managed to give myself a very deep bone bruise on my upper right shin when I slipped on a wobbling step on one of the guards, causing me to slam my leg into the next step up. Hurt like hell, but I massaged some of the pain out and continued on. The fields ended and the trail continued on through the woods, and I'm guessing we jumped ridgelines too, because the traffic noise from I-81 faded away as I descended into a valley and climbed back up the next hill. Highlights today included lots of flowers, including some sections where the trail wound through thousands of blooming rhododendrons. Heard (but did not see) two sets of deer crashing away, saw a rabbit, and also walked through several hatches of (I guess) tens of thousands of May Flies, many of which were landing on me for a second or two before taking back to the air.
Unfortunately my right leg was really aching, especially on the downhills (eerily similar to Mark's symptoms, even though a completely different injury). Also, water was again a bit of an issue, though there were some good sources along the way (but I try to avoid sizable streams, especially any that are draining from pastures). Did 14 miles to the first shelter (Maul Knob I think), no one there, so I signed in, got some water, and kept rolling along. The trail after Maul Knob Shelter was a heartbreaking, increasingly steep uphill 2000 foot climb with many false summits. Seemed endless, and in fact all four of us that made the shelter that evening insisted that it had to be 11 - 12 miles, not 9; it was just brutal, one of my toughest days, and not just because it was a 23 mile day or because my leg was hurting. Passed several hikers who had given up and tent-camped along the trail, but I kept going, and finally got to Chestnut Knob Shelter at 8:00. Rocket was there, and another guy, Big Tuna, plus a couple of locals and their dogs having a beer party (fortunately one was going home and the other was tent camping). Holdout showed up about half an hour later, also whipped and complaining about the distance. The shelter had been the cabin for a fire warden, and was a pretty nice, enclosed, rock cabin. Nice sunset, but clear, chilly, and windy. Beautiful stars once it got dark. Bed by 10:00 pm. A long day!
The day quickly cleared to a beautiful blue sky with a hint of a cloud. Lot of field walking today, through various pastures, and over a lot of cattle guards - in fact I managed to give myself a very deep bone bruise on my upper right shin when I slipped on a wobbling step on one of the guards, causing me to slam my leg into the next step up. Hurt like hell, but I massaged some of the pain out and continued on. The fields ended and the trail continued on through the woods, and I'm guessing we jumped ridgelines too, because the traffic noise from I-81 faded away as I descended into a valley and climbed back up the next hill. Highlights today included lots of flowers, including some sections where the trail wound through thousands of blooming rhododendrons. Heard (but did not see) two sets of deer crashing away, saw a rabbit, and also walked through several hatches of (I guess) tens of thousands of May Flies, many of which were landing on me for a second or two before taking back to the air.
Unfortunately my right leg was really aching, especially on the downhills (eerily similar to Mark's symptoms, even though a completely different injury). Also, water was again a bit of an issue, though there were some good sources along the way (but I try to avoid sizable streams, especially any that are draining from pastures). Did 14 miles to the first shelter (Maul Knob I think), no one there, so I signed in, got some water, and kept rolling along. The trail after Maul Knob Shelter was a heartbreaking, increasingly steep uphill 2000 foot climb with many false summits. Seemed endless, and in fact all four of us that made the shelter that evening insisted that it had to be 11 - 12 miles, not 9; it was just brutal, one of my toughest days, and not just because it was a 23 mile day or because my leg was hurting. Passed several hikers who had given up and tent-camped along the trail, but I kept going, and finally got to Chestnut Knob Shelter at 8:00. Rocket was there, and another guy, Big Tuna, plus a couple of locals and their dogs having a beer party (fortunately one was going home and the other was tent camping). Holdout showed up about half an hour later, also whipped and complaining about the distance. The shelter had been the cabin for a fire warden, and was a pretty nice, enclosed, rock cabin. Nice sunset, but clear, chilly, and windy. Beautiful stars once it got dark. Bed by 10:00 pm. A long day!
Memorial Day Update
Have spoken with Bob and there is good news! Mark is rested, healed, and armed with the medications he believes will allow him to continue! He is leaving this morning to meet the dogged doctor in Pearisburg, VA, where Bob is taking a zero today. After doing over 100 miles in 5 days solo, Bob's body begged for a break, and the chance to meet up with Mark was the final impetus. I saw Mark last night, delivering to him some stuff for Bob (a new, 14oz. Thermarest Neo-Air - the last one Casual Adventure had (thanks Charlie!) - as well as a repair kit and something for Bob to wear in his pictures from the gang at Casual Adventure).
Mark looks great and is itching to get back on the trail. He figured he better hurry up and meet up with Bob, or the miles he'll have to put in at the end of the trek to complete the trail will be huge! I told him Bob would probably hike it with him!
Somewhere around the third week in June is the target for Harper's Ferry and a quick break back in Arlington to celebrate the completion of the longest state on the trail. Expect more reports from Bob today!
Mark looks great and is itching to get back on the trail. He figured he better hurry up and meet up with Bob, or the miles he'll have to put in at the end of the trek to complete the trail will be huge! I told him Bob would probably hike it with him!
Somewhere around the third week in June is the target for Harper's Ferry and a quick break back in Arlington to celebrate the completion of the longest state on the trail. Expect more reports from Bob today!
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
A Note from Mark
I'm not OK. (Ed. - Mark's GPS Spots always come through with the phrase 'I'm OK, Come join me on the Trail, Mark) I have what the doctor in Marion, VA called an over use injury in my left quadriceps. Gee I wonder how that happened we only hiked over 500 miles. Bob and I left Damascus VA on Tuesday May 12 to try and get 50 miles in before the Trailfest Festival in Damascus. On Wednesday I developed a sharp pain in my left leg while hiking over Whitetop Mountain about 25 miles north of Damascus. We met some folks that had a car parked near Mount Rogers and they took us into Marion, VA. I went to the hospital on Thursday morning and the doctor said to rest for a few days, take Ibuprofen, and take it easy. On Friday we got
a ride back to Damascus for Traildays. Mark Barker and Mel Herrmann came down Friday night and stayed through Saturday for the Festival. They took us back on the trail Saturday afternoon where we got off the previous Wednesday. We did 5 miles on Saturday, 16 on Sunday, and 10 on Monday. Everything seemed to be OK. The plan for yesterday was for 17 miles. After 10 miles I got a sharp shooting pain in my leg again. We were at the Mount Rogers NRA Visitor Center. I decided that I needed to come home and see my doctor and get more rest. I got a shuttle ride to Marion where my mom and my daughter Megan picked me up. I hope to get back on the trail in a week or less depending on what my doctor says. Bob is continuing on up the trail without me for now. The Spot contacts will be for Bob. I will rejoin him on the trail when I recover and then after we finish in Maine I'll come back to do the part I missed in VA.
-Mark "Red Shoes" Wray
a ride back to Damascus for Traildays. Mark Barker and Mel Herrmann came down Friday night and stayed through Saturday for the Festival. They took us back on the trail Saturday afternoon where we got off the previous Wednesday. We did 5 miles on Saturday, 16 on Sunday, and 10 on Monday. Everything seemed to be OK. The plan for yesterday was for 17 miles. After 10 miles I got a sharp shooting pain in my leg again. We were at the Mount Rogers NRA Visitor Center. I decided that I needed to come home and see my doctor and get more rest. I got a shuttle ride to Marion where my mom and my daughter Megan picked me up. I hope to get back on the trail in a week or less depending on what my doctor says. Bob is continuing on up the trail without me for now. The Spot contacts will be for Bob. I will rejoin him on the trail when I recover and then after we finish in Maine I'll come back to do the part I missed in VA.
-Mark "Red Shoes" Wray
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Day 46 (Full Report) - Bob Going Solo
Tuesday, 5/19 - (At Trimpi Shelter) - Got up at 6:00 - very chilly, 34 degrees, clear skies overhead, with a light breeze. Some fellow hikers said they saw frost along the trail, so it probably got below freezing in a few spots. On the trail at 6:30, moving really well on excellent trail, heading towards the Mt. Roger's Visitors' Center on Rt 16. Mark spotted a solo deer on the way - unlike most, this one stayed still and watched us walk by from about 20 yards, as opposed to crashing off through the brush as all the rest that we have seen thus far. We descended from about 3200 to 2400 feet, and "summertime" was quite evident as we descended. The only exception being the rhododendron thickets, which hold the cold very tenaciously. Got to Partnership Shelter (roughly 10 miles in), and it was as impressive as stated, with two decks, stairs to the second level, a propane-fired shower, a laundry tub out back, and a modern style latrine nearby. Pretty much the Rolls Royce of A.T. shelters. 200 yards later was the Mt. Roger's Visitors' Center, and we stopped for a break, and to check out the various displays inside. While we were there, a shuttle arrived from Marion and took about 8 hikers in. [Though we didn't know it yet, this shuttle would play an important role for us later that afternoon.]
Around 11:30, we headed back up, climbing a minor hill behind the Vistor's Center. It was pretty rocky on top, and as we started the descent on the opposite side Mark stopped and said that his quad problem had returned and that he couldn't continue. We talked about it for a few minutes, and decided to return to the Visitor's Center and see what we could do to get him home. Returning to the peak, I checked the cell phone coverage (2-3 bars, so we called Mark's mom from there since we were unsure of coverage at the Center itself (which is down in a hole somwhat). Mark told his mom that he was coming off the trail, and asked her to come get him, but to wait until he called back. We returned to the Visitor's Center, and found we could (barely) get a signal if we stood on a tall rock in front of the entrance. So Mark talked to his mom and daughter Megan a few times, plus we learned that he could take the shuttle back to Marion when it returned, and so he arranged for them to come down to Marion to pick him up. An emotional half hour, for sure - and very lucky we were here and not way back in the bush, 10 miles from the nearest road.
After that was arranged, Mark asked what I wanted to carry, and I took the GPS Spot, the crank radio, the maps, and the A.T. Companion guidebook. We also agreed that if I made it to Adkins by 6:30 or 7:00, that he, his mom, and daughter would meet me for dinner. I ate a quick lunch and hit the bathroom, then filled both canteens, said my goodbyes, and walked away. Mark turned and went back into the Vistor's Center to get a book (likely to be a long wait), and so we avoided watching each other walk out of sight (which is supposed to be bad luck). Is it unmanly to admit that I cried as I walked away? Hard to describe my emotions, but dismay and apprehension were prominent - aside from losing my hiking partner and friend, I had to give myself a stern lecture on not getting stupid - it's just me now, with very little safety net (especially when I'm off-trail) in an unforgiving environment. As I say to the Scouts, Mother Nature is not a liberal, and doesn't tolerate idiots. Climbed back over the hill, and did 7 miles to the Chatfield Shelter in 2 hours and 45 minutes, still running on adrenaline and emotion. As it turned out, the trail got very bad along the way, very nasty and rocky, so Mark fortuitously made the right call on that one. Upon reaching the shelter and removing my pack, I was actually light-headed - so I forced myself to take 20 minutes to calm down. A lot of water and a candy bar helped.
Continuing on, the trail improved dramatically, even crossing open fields for long stretches, with the trail mowed by a tractor, even up and down the switchbacks. Made Adkins (Rt. 11) just before 6:00, and laid out the Spot. The Relax Inn was just to my left, while the Exxon Mini-Mart (suggested resupply point) was just to my right. Journey and Cas walked by on their way to dinner, and so I filled them in on what had happened to Mark. I then called Megan Wray - they were still about 20-30 minutes away from Marion, so I checked into the Inn (unfortunately getting a room in the smoker's wing - nothing else was available), and quickly laid out my clean clothes. Mark called just as I was heading into the shower (using Megan's phone), so they headed on over. I grabbed a *very* hot shower, which dramatically helped my overall mood (and odor), and got out just as they arrived. So I got dressed and walked outside, just in time to see Criqui, who was looking a lot better after his medical treatment in Marion. Criqui had already eaten, so we headed up to "The Barn" restaurant, the same that Journay and Cas had been walking to. At least 10 other hikers were having dinner when we walked in, and many offered their sympathies to Mark (none, however, offered any sympathy to me!) The Barn was a nice place, and we enjoyed a good dinner together.
Once we were finished, Mark said his farewells all around, and we headed over to the Exxon for gas (and supplies for me). The Wrays took off, but I stuck around for another half hour to check email ($5 for 30 minutes, max time allowed). Basically I let Pete, Pauline, and several others that I was solo now. Criqui also came by and I loaned him $20 for supplies and beer (which he repaid as soon as we returned to the hotel). Back at my room, I quickly got my laundry together and did a load - lucky I didn't delay, because there was soon a waiting list for the machines. Returned to my room to sort my food and other stuff, and also checked the Weather Channel - excellent weather through Sunday, so a good chance for me to put some miles behind me. Once I got the clothes dried, I sorted them as well, then hit the rack. All told, 22 miles today, plus 1 more for the up and back with Mark. Another long day tomorrow, but at least the weather looks ideal.
Around 11:30, we headed back up, climbing a minor hill behind the Vistor's Center. It was pretty rocky on top, and as we started the descent on the opposite side Mark stopped and said that his quad problem had returned and that he couldn't continue. We talked about it for a few minutes, and decided to return to the Visitor's Center and see what we could do to get him home. Returning to the peak, I checked the cell phone coverage (2-3 bars, so we called Mark's mom from there since we were unsure of coverage at the Center itself (which is down in a hole somwhat). Mark told his mom that he was coming off the trail, and asked her to come get him, but to wait until he called back. We returned to the Visitor's Center, and found we could (barely) get a signal if we stood on a tall rock in front of the entrance. So Mark talked to his mom and daughter Megan a few times, plus we learned that he could take the shuttle back to Marion when it returned, and so he arranged for them to come down to Marion to pick him up. An emotional half hour, for sure - and very lucky we were here and not way back in the bush, 10 miles from the nearest road.
After that was arranged, Mark asked what I wanted to carry, and I took the GPS Spot, the crank radio, the maps, and the A.T. Companion guidebook. We also agreed that if I made it to Adkins by 6:30 or 7:00, that he, his mom, and daughter would meet me for dinner. I ate a quick lunch and hit the bathroom, then filled both canteens, said my goodbyes, and walked away. Mark turned and went back into the Vistor's Center to get a book (likely to be a long wait), and so we avoided watching each other walk out of sight (which is supposed to be bad luck). Is it unmanly to admit that I cried as I walked away? Hard to describe my emotions, but dismay and apprehension were prominent - aside from losing my hiking partner and friend, I had to give myself a stern lecture on not getting stupid - it's just me now, with very little safety net (especially when I'm off-trail) in an unforgiving environment. As I say to the Scouts, Mother Nature is not a liberal, and doesn't tolerate idiots. Climbed back over the hill, and did 7 miles to the Chatfield Shelter in 2 hours and 45 minutes, still running on adrenaline and emotion. As it turned out, the trail got very bad along the way, very nasty and rocky, so Mark fortuitously made the right call on that one. Upon reaching the shelter and removing my pack, I was actually light-headed - so I forced myself to take 20 minutes to calm down. A lot of water and a candy bar helped.
Continuing on, the trail improved dramatically, even crossing open fields for long stretches, with the trail mowed by a tractor, even up and down the switchbacks. Made Adkins (Rt. 11) just before 6:00, and laid out the Spot. The Relax Inn was just to my left, while the Exxon Mini-Mart (suggested resupply point) was just to my right. Journey and Cas walked by on their way to dinner, and so I filled them in on what had happened to Mark. I then called Megan Wray - they were still about 20-30 minutes away from Marion, so I checked into the Inn (unfortunately getting a room in the smoker's wing - nothing else was available), and quickly laid out my clean clothes. Mark called just as I was heading into the shower (using Megan's phone), so they headed on over. I grabbed a *very* hot shower, which dramatically helped my overall mood (and odor), and got out just as they arrived. So I got dressed and walked outside, just in time to see Criqui, who was looking a lot better after his medical treatment in Marion. Criqui had already eaten, so we headed up to "The Barn" restaurant, the same that Journay and Cas had been walking to. At least 10 other hikers were having dinner when we walked in, and many offered their sympathies to Mark (none, however, offered any sympathy to me!) The Barn was a nice place, and we enjoyed a good dinner together.
Once we were finished, Mark said his farewells all around, and we headed over to the Exxon for gas (and supplies for me). The Wrays took off, but I stuck around for another half hour to check email ($5 for 30 minutes, max time allowed). Basically I let Pete, Pauline, and several others that I was solo now. Criqui also came by and I loaned him $20 for supplies and beer (which he repaid as soon as we returned to the hotel). Back at my room, I quickly got my laundry together and did a load - lucky I didn't delay, because there was soon a waiting list for the machines. Returned to my room to sort my food and other stuff, and also checked the Weather Channel - excellent weather through Sunday, so a good chance for me to put some miles behind me. Once I got the clothes dried, I sorted them as well, then hit the rack. All told, 22 miles today, plus 1 more for the up and back with Mark. Another long day tomorrow, but at least the weather looks ideal.
Day 46 - Going it Alone
Tuesday, May 19th -8:52pm -Quick update - Mark's quad problem returned this afternoon on the trail, seriously, and he's taking at least a week off to see if he can get it healed up. His mom and daughter picked him up in Marion this afternoon. So I'm soloing right now. Did 10 or so with Mark, then another 12 on my own. Also 1 additional mile up and back from the point where Mark said he couldn't go any further. So 23 total today for me, my highest yet. Obviously we're both pretty bummed, but what can you do? I wasn't willing to return to Arlington, because a week might not do it for Mark, and in fact his doctor may say he's done. Plus I am not sure that I'd return at all if I had a week or two of creature comforts. Right now I'm focused on the trail, and I need to keep it that way.
I'm at Adkins, VA (Mile 539) right now, so will pass the one fourth point of the Trail tomorrow sometime. I expect to be in Bland, VA (ca. 45 miles from here) either very late Thursday or early Friday. That may be optimistic, but without Mark I'm likely to hike 12 hours a day. Most of the other Through-hikers I know are either well ahead or well behind me right now, and a LOT of people dropped out in Damascus after Trail Days, so it's gonna be lonely for awhile. We'll see if I'm as tough (or stubborn) as I think.
I am limited to 30 minutes on this computer, so no further blog reports til I get to Bland, which will also be my next chance to check email. Pauline or Rick - please let whoever needs to know, know what's going on. Anyone - If you're going to the District Dinner, please give my
regards to all, and let them know I'm still plugging away down here.
Out of time, so gotta run.
- Bob
I'm at Adkins, VA (Mile 539) right now, so will pass the one fourth point of the Trail tomorrow sometime. I expect to be in Bland, VA (ca. 45 miles from here) either very late Thursday or early Friday. That may be optimistic, but without Mark I'm likely to hike 12 hours a day. Most of the other Through-hikers I know are either well ahead or well behind me right now, and a LOT of people dropped out in Damascus after Trail Days, so it's gonna be lonely for awhile. We'll see if I'm as tough (or stubborn) as I think.
I am limited to 30 minutes on this computer, so no further blog reports til I get to Bland, which will also be my next chance to check email. Pauline or Rick - please let whoever needs to know, know what's going on. Anyone - If you're going to the District Dinner, please give my
regards to all, and let them know I'm still plugging away down here.
Out of time, so gotta run.
- Bob
Monday, May 18, 2009
Day 45 - A "Fly-By" of Troutdale
Monday, May 18th - Up at 6:30 am, clear and cold - 35 degrees! - and may have been even colder overnight (my breath was fogging for awhile around 4:00 am). Not bad versus some of the nights in Georgia and in the Smokies, but definitely colder than recently.
We got on the trail at 7:00, and put in roughly 6 miles to the "Hurricane Campground Aceess Road," off VA 630 (I think?), and we hitched a ride into Troutdale. Took 25 minutes before we finally got a ride, from a guy who was going right past Jerry's Diner and Mini-Mart, our desired breakfast and resupply spot. Pretty good breakfast, plus we were later greeted by Jerry himself. Mark and I also bought 2 days worth of food, enough to carry us to our next resupply point. I still needed to hit the Post Office, and as it turned out Jerry kept a guy (Gary) on sort of a retainer to shuttle hikers around the town, in exchange for which Jerry kept him well fed. So we first hit the Post Office, where I got my box from Brenda Wray, including my bug suit, bug hut, and new pack cover. I mailed the bug hut and a few of Mark's items (mostly used maps I think) back to my house - didn't need the hut anymore since I got the new tent. Gary then delivered us back to the trail at 11:40, so a 2 hour and 20 minute turnaround, not bad.
Back on the trail at 11:45, intending to keep it a short day. Long uphill to Trimpi Shelter, arriving 1:30. No one there when we arrived, but soon a number of folks started passing through on their way to the next shelter, including our friend Criqui, who came in wearing an eye patch and bearing a tale of woe - apparently he had scratched his cornea somehow, and so was looking to push on so he could get to the hospital in Marion. He had gotten some minor treatment at a clinic, but he was still suffering pretty badly, plus was stumbling all over the trail due to having to hike with only one eye (in fact, he removed the eye patch at the shelter, feeling that it was less risky than taking a hard fall). Criqui also regaled us with tales of the Friday and Saturday night parties at Damascus, where alcohol (and other substance) abuse was rampant, with a large percentage of partiers getting violently ill. He actually left cause it was just out of control, and ended up sleeping in the stadium dugout. He was also bummed because all his previous hiking buddies (Father Time, Muscles, Ezra, Sailor-J, etc.) had all dropped out. Mark and I said he was welcome to hike with us once he got his eye treated, and he seemed enthused about that - even though I warned him that we weren't fast hikers. Eventually he and all but 3 of the other hikers moved on - One Step and Rocket stayed in the shelter with us, and a southbound section-hiker (missed his name) tented below the shelter.
I took advantage of the early stop to set up and seam-seal my new tent - a very tedious job where meticulous care is critical. Setup was surprisingly easy; the seam-sealing much less so - it took 2 1/2 hours in total. Fortunately the seam-sealer dried fairly quickly. If I did it correctly, the tent should be about as waterproof as anything out there. We'll see! We ate dinner at 5:30 - getting chilly again, already 45 degrees. After testing various points for stickiness, I went ahead and took the tent back down and packed it away. Once again in our tents by 8:00 pm. Hopefully the intentionally short day will help Mark's leg situation.
We got on the trail at 7:00, and put in roughly 6 miles to the "Hurricane Campground Aceess Road," off VA 630 (I think?), and we hitched a ride into Troutdale. Took 25 minutes before we finally got a ride, from a guy who was going right past Jerry's Diner and Mini-Mart, our desired breakfast and resupply spot. Pretty good breakfast, plus we were later greeted by Jerry himself. Mark and I also bought 2 days worth of food, enough to carry us to our next resupply point. I still needed to hit the Post Office, and as it turned out Jerry kept a guy (Gary) on sort of a retainer to shuttle hikers around the town, in exchange for which Jerry kept him well fed. So we first hit the Post Office, where I got my box from Brenda Wray, including my bug suit, bug hut, and new pack cover. I mailed the bug hut and a few of Mark's items (mostly used maps I think) back to my house - didn't need the hut anymore since I got the new tent. Gary then delivered us back to the trail at 11:40, so a 2 hour and 20 minute turnaround, not bad.
Back on the trail at 11:45, intending to keep it a short day. Long uphill to Trimpi Shelter, arriving 1:30. No one there when we arrived, but soon a number of folks started passing through on their way to the next shelter, including our friend Criqui, who came in wearing an eye patch and bearing a tale of woe - apparently he had scratched his cornea somehow, and so was looking to push on so he could get to the hospital in Marion. He had gotten some minor treatment at a clinic, but he was still suffering pretty badly, plus was stumbling all over the trail due to having to hike with only one eye (in fact, he removed the eye patch at the shelter, feeling that it was less risky than taking a hard fall). Criqui also regaled us with tales of the Friday and Saturday night parties at Damascus, where alcohol (and other substance) abuse was rampant, with a large percentage of partiers getting violently ill. He actually left cause it was just out of control, and ended up sleeping in the stadium dugout. He was also bummed because all his previous hiking buddies (Father Time, Muscles, Ezra, Sailor-J, etc.) had all dropped out. Mark and I said he was welcome to hike with us once he got his eye treated, and he seemed enthused about that - even though I warned him that we weren't fast hikers. Eventually he and all but 3 of the other hikers moved on - One Step and Rocket stayed in the shelter with us, and a southbound section-hiker (missed his name) tented below the shelter.
I took advantage of the early stop to set up and seam-seal my new tent - a very tedious job where meticulous care is critical. Setup was surprisingly easy; the seam-sealing much less so - it took 2 1/2 hours in total. Fortunately the seam-sealer dried fairly quickly. If I did it correctly, the tent should be about as waterproof as anything out there. We'll see! We ate dinner at 5:30 - getting chilly again, already 45 degrees. After testing various points for stickiness, I went ahead and took the tent back down and packed it away. Once again in our tents by 8:00 pm. Hopefully the intentionally short day will help Mark's leg situation.
Day 44 - Back on the Trail, but Mark's Injury is Acting Up
Sunday, May 17th - At Thomas Knob Shelter - Tough night - rained hard, with occasional strong gusts of wind, from 9:30 - 11:30 pm, then again from 3:15 - 5:00 am, then again from 6:20 - 7:00 am. Some of the folks downstairs got wet from rain blowing in during the wind gusts, but we stayed dry upstairs. Not that I slept real well. Pity everyone in the tents! Chilly again, too, about 48 degrees. Mark and I got up at 6:00, but we also decided to eat at the shelter, since finding a "nice spot" for breakfast didn't seem too realistic a possibility this morning! So no quick getaway today.
Left at 7:00 am just as the heavy rain was easing a bit - still totally socked in and blowing hard, and we both quickly lost all feeling in our hands (an all too familiar sensation during this trek, so far). The lack of visibility was a real shame, because the view over the balds at Mt. Rogers are renown. Well, not today! And the ponies had the good sense to hunker down out of sight too. "Oh well." The mists began to break a bit around 10:00 am, and the rains ended, but by then we were well past the balds. Tough slogging again - very rocky trail, and running pretty deep in water at various points - Mark and I both got a boot full several times. The poor trail was beginning to aggravate Mark's injury again, but he kept pounding on anyway (not much choice!) We ended up continuing to the Old Orchard Shelter for lunch, arriving just about the time the sun started breaking through the clouds (a mixed blessing, because the temperature started to drop again as the front passed). Soon after we arrived at the shelter, a group of 10 students from Chatham University (near Pittsburgh?) came in, looking pretty miserable themselves. We had seen their vans at the Elk Garden parking lot, but this was the first we had seen of them. They were taking a course in "Environmental Art" (God only knows what that is!), and were out there for a week in the woods. They looked very young - in fact Mark thought they were high school students til we talked with them for awhile. No adults - there was one older looking student who I assume was a graduate assistant, who appeared to be somewhat in charge. They were all hugging each other for warmth, and I suggested that they put on their rain gear, but that was ignored, what do I know, right? Well, at least they were drying out in the breeze, even if half freezing to death in the process. A nice enough group, just unprepared for the conditions. We took our leave of them around 1:00.
The trail improved dramatically after the shelter, much better graded and with much less rock-hopping. We went up about a 1500 foot climb over Iron Mountain, but by the time we reached Hurricane Shelter Mark's leg had had enough, so we bagged it there, around 3:45. He is now very concerned about his ability to continue on the trek, and it seems with good reason, too - this is not a good development, after 2 zero days, for sure. After relaxing for a bit, we ate an early dinner, and also got in our sleeping bags early, since it was still windy and chilly, already in the mid-40's and still dropping. After a terrible start, a decent enough day, and 16 miles down - but even that may have been a shelter too far....
Left at 7:00 am just as the heavy rain was easing a bit - still totally socked in and blowing hard, and we both quickly lost all feeling in our hands (an all too familiar sensation during this trek, so far). The lack of visibility was a real shame, because the view over the balds at Mt. Rogers are renown. Well, not today! And the ponies had the good sense to hunker down out of sight too. "Oh well." The mists began to break a bit around 10:00 am, and the rains ended, but by then we were well past the balds. Tough slogging again - very rocky trail, and running pretty deep in water at various points - Mark and I both got a boot full several times. The poor trail was beginning to aggravate Mark's injury again, but he kept pounding on anyway (not much choice!) We ended up continuing to the Old Orchard Shelter for lunch, arriving just about the time the sun started breaking through the clouds (a mixed blessing, because the temperature started to drop again as the front passed). Soon after we arrived at the shelter, a group of 10 students from Chatham University (near Pittsburgh?) came in, looking pretty miserable themselves. We had seen their vans at the Elk Garden parking lot, but this was the first we had seen of them. They were taking a course in "Environmental Art" (God only knows what that is!), and were out there for a week in the woods. They looked very young - in fact Mark thought they were high school students til we talked with them for awhile. No adults - there was one older looking student who I assume was a graduate assistant, who appeared to be somewhat in charge. They were all hugging each other for warmth, and I suggested that they put on their rain gear, but that was ignored, what do I know, right? Well, at least they were drying out in the breeze, even if half freezing to death in the process. A nice enough group, just unprepared for the conditions. We took our leave of them around 1:00.
The trail improved dramatically after the shelter, much better graded and with much less rock-hopping. We went up about a 1500 foot climb over Iron Mountain, but by the time we reached Hurricane Shelter Mark's leg had had enough, so we bagged it there, around 3:45. He is now very concerned about his ability to continue on the trek, and it seems with good reason, too - this is not a good development, after 2 zero days, for sure. After relaxing for a bit, we ate an early dinner, and also got in our sleeping bags early, since it was still windy and chilly, already in the mid-40's and still dropping. After a terrible start, a decent enough day, and 16 miles down - but even that may have been a shelter too far....
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Day 43 - Trail Days, the Parade, & Back on the Trail
Saturday, May 16th - (At the Day's Inn in Abingdon, VA) - Got up at 6:40, and grabbed a shower; Mark got up around 7:00. Packed up my gear, but removed my tent, tarp, and the associated hardware and ropes, and also about a half a dozen other small items that I had either barely used or not used at all over the previous 6 weeks. At 7:45, we noted that Mark B. was reloading his car, so we dragged our stuff down and he packed that in as well. [He'll drop off my removed stuff to Marco at my house.]
The "Continental Breakfast" at the hotel was totally lame, so we headed over to the Huddleston's across the highway, and Mel treated us all to breakfast. We spent a pleasant hour there, then headed back to the hotel for a final bathroom break and Weather Channel check. Looks like heavy rain later today and tomorrow morning, then great weather all next week. We all got back in the car, and Mark B. drove back to Damascus, where (again) the crowd wasn't living up to the hype - though there were a lot more than yesterday. However, there was some sort of a Boy Scout Bike-o-Ree going on just outside of town, on the Virginia Creeper Trail, so a lot of the vehicles were associated with that, not Trail Days. There were also a bunch of Little League games going on at the local stadium, too. Mark B. dropped us off at Tent City, then he and Mel returned to the main vendor area. I picked up my poles (new expanders, cleaned, lubed - nice job) while Mark picked up his pack (now repaired). Pretty good service for free!
We grabbed a shuttle back to the main vendor area, where I bought the "Heartfire" tent that I had been eyeing the day before - 1 pound, 10 ounces, pretty hard to beat that! All told, probably 5 pounds less on my back; worth it, despite the expense ($225). I'm hoping to be around 35 pounds now, about 10 - 12 pounds less than I started with on April 4th. We linked back up with Mark B. and Mel, and slowly toured the vendors again, and also greeted a few more familar faces. Finally got to the parking area, where Mark W. repacked all his gear into his pack, while I made a mid-day report on my digital recorder. Weather increasingly hot and humid, looking threatening, but no rain yet.
By noon we were done with the vendors, and slowly headed back through the town, heading towards the parade assembly area at the far end of town (near Cowboys). I hit the three outfitters in town, looking for the new Therm-a-Rest, which weighs about a half a pound less than what I have, and is 2 1/2 times thicker; unfortunately, no one had one in my size. I guess I'll try and pick one up later. Certainly the one I have will do for now, just as it has for going on 15 years now....
We finally ended up at Cowboys, where we all bought some cold drinks, and later got some free hot dogs nearby. Mark W. had a long chat with "James," a Double-H and Philmont staffer who knew Megan Wray from the previous summer [Aside - It really has been amazing how many conversations have been initiated by Mark wearing his Philmont Staff Shirt, both on the trail and in town.] Mark W. got the guy's personal details and promised to relay them to Megan.
At this point (about 1:00 or so), we sat down on the railroad ties outlining the Virginia Creeper Trail - hoping not to get run over by the dozens of Scouts that rode by over the next hour - and just took in the scene as the hikers began to assemble. Plenty of things to gawk at, with hikers wearing all sorts of strange attire, and arming themselves with water balloons and a variety of water guns, ranging from child-size squirt guns up to Super-Soakers and Indian pumps. Tops in the weird department was the German Shepherd whose hair had been trimmed into a Mohawk, followed by a guy who had shaved his head in the back and painted a white blaze on himself. One guy was dressed only in a large bandanna - a view best left to the reader's imagination. Next to us was the Through-Hiker Class of 2006, with a large banner, and many happy reunnions were going on.
The actual parade started around 2:10 - it was supposed to be organized by class (year), but in fact it was just sort of go place yourself wherever; Mark and I ended up about 2/3rds back. The start was two ambulances with sirens blaring, leading a slow march about a half a mile through the town. There were maybe a thousand hikers and about three thousand spectators. The water battles started immediately, with the hikers giving as good as they got for the first quarter-mile or so, then everytone ran out of ammo. Not so with the spectators! Mark and I didn't get all that wet, with the exception of one guy who got us with a garden hose on full blast. I will add this was all in good fun, everyone laughing and having a good time. Eventually we passed "our" B&B, and Mark and I waved and caught Suzie Montgomery's attention, thanking her one last time. Finally to the park, and the battle ended, with a fire truck bringing up the rear of the column. And blessed relief for all the cars that had been backed up on U.S. 58 for an hour or more. We linked up with Mark B. and Mel (I think they walked behind the fire truck), and made our way back through the vendor area one last time.
On the way we linked up with Gaucha, who we hadn't seen since the day after Blue Mountain Shelter - she was about 40 miles back at this point, but was still plugging away. We waved to a few others too; as I previously wrote, this was the "last hurrah" for many of the hikers, so also was our last opportunity to say farewell. Finally we reached Mark B.'s car, and after helping a few other cars get out or in, we were on our way back to Elk Garden, arriving at 3:45. Quite a difference from the riotous scenes in Damascus! We said our goodbyes, and headed up the hill at 4:00 on the nose, Mark B. and Mel departing for Arlington soon thereafter. A surprisingly easy hike up Mt. Rogers (the Virginia "high point.") We took the side-hike to the peak, which has zero view - the standard joke you ask people who climb Mt. Rogers is "How was the view?" Well, now I understand. Lots of clouds but (despite the forecast) still no signs of rain yet. Also no signs of any of the local wild ponies. Did the final quarter mile to the shelter (I think it's "Thomas Knob Shelter"); had about 8 people on the lower deck, but only one upstairs, "Cas," a female former Army M.P. There were also roughly 20 more people tenting in the area, over about a half-mile stretch of the A.T. Chilly again (doubtless due to the altitude and breeze), so we did a quick dinner by 8:00 pm. After getting some water from the spring, I went upstairs, but Mark stayed outside to write some postcards. It started raining (at last) around 9:30 or so, and rained hard on and off through the night - I was happy to be quite dry in the shelter attic area. 4 1/2 miles today, plus an extra mile for the side-hike to the peak - a good "nero."
The "Continental Breakfast" at the hotel was totally lame, so we headed over to the Huddleston's across the highway, and Mel treated us all to breakfast. We spent a pleasant hour there, then headed back to the hotel for a final bathroom break and Weather Channel check. Looks like heavy rain later today and tomorrow morning, then great weather all next week. We all got back in the car, and Mark B. drove back to Damascus, where (again) the crowd wasn't living up to the hype - though there were a lot more than yesterday. However, there was some sort of a Boy Scout Bike-o-Ree going on just outside of town, on the Virginia Creeper Trail, so a lot of the vehicles were associated with that, not Trail Days. There were also a bunch of Little League games going on at the local stadium, too. Mark B. dropped us off at Tent City, then he and Mel returned to the main vendor area. I picked up my poles (new expanders, cleaned, lubed - nice job) while Mark picked up his pack (now repaired). Pretty good service for free!
We grabbed a shuttle back to the main vendor area, where I bought the "Heartfire" tent that I had been eyeing the day before - 1 pound, 10 ounces, pretty hard to beat that! All told, probably 5 pounds less on my back; worth it, despite the expense ($225). I'm hoping to be around 35 pounds now, about 10 - 12 pounds less than I started with on April 4th. We linked back up with Mark B. and Mel, and slowly toured the vendors again, and also greeted a few more familar faces. Finally got to the parking area, where Mark W. repacked all his gear into his pack, while I made a mid-day report on my digital recorder. Weather increasingly hot and humid, looking threatening, but no rain yet.
By noon we were done with the vendors, and slowly headed back through the town, heading towards the parade assembly area at the far end of town (near Cowboys). I hit the three outfitters in town, looking for the new Therm-a-Rest, which weighs about a half a pound less than what I have, and is 2 1/2 times thicker; unfortunately, no one had one in my size. I guess I'll try and pick one up later. Certainly the one I have will do for now, just as it has for going on 15 years now....
We finally ended up at Cowboys, where we all bought some cold drinks, and later got some free hot dogs nearby. Mark W. had a long chat with "James," a Double-H and Philmont staffer who knew Megan Wray from the previous summer [Aside - It really has been amazing how many conversations have been initiated by Mark wearing his Philmont Staff Shirt, both on the trail and in town.] Mark W. got the guy's personal details and promised to relay them to Megan.
At this point (about 1:00 or so), we sat down on the railroad ties outlining the Virginia Creeper Trail - hoping not to get run over by the dozens of Scouts that rode by over the next hour - and just took in the scene as the hikers began to assemble. Plenty of things to gawk at, with hikers wearing all sorts of strange attire, and arming themselves with water balloons and a variety of water guns, ranging from child-size squirt guns up to Super-Soakers and Indian pumps. Tops in the weird department was the German Shepherd whose hair had been trimmed into a Mohawk, followed by a guy who had shaved his head in the back and painted a white blaze on himself. One guy was dressed only in a large bandanna - a view best left to the reader's imagination. Next to us was the Through-Hiker Class of 2006, with a large banner, and many happy reunnions were going on.
The actual parade started around 2:10 - it was supposed to be organized by class (year), but in fact it was just sort of go place yourself wherever; Mark and I ended up about 2/3rds back. The start was two ambulances with sirens blaring, leading a slow march about a half a mile through the town. There were maybe a thousand hikers and about three thousand spectators. The water battles started immediately, with the hikers giving as good as they got for the first quarter-mile or so, then everytone ran out of ammo. Not so with the spectators! Mark and I didn't get all that wet, with the exception of one guy who got us with a garden hose on full blast. I will add this was all in good fun, everyone laughing and having a good time. Eventually we passed "our" B&B, and Mark and I waved and caught Suzie Montgomery's attention, thanking her one last time. Finally to the park, and the battle ended, with a fire truck bringing up the rear of the column. And blessed relief for all the cars that had been backed up on U.S. 58 for an hour or more. We linked up with Mark B. and Mel (I think they walked behind the fire truck), and made our way back through the vendor area one last time.
On the way we linked up with Gaucha, who we hadn't seen since the day after Blue Mountain Shelter - she was about 40 miles back at this point, but was still plugging away. We waved to a few others too; as I previously wrote, this was the "last hurrah" for many of the hikers, so also was our last opportunity to say farewell. Finally we reached Mark B.'s car, and after helping a few other cars get out or in, we were on our way back to Elk Garden, arriving at 3:45. Quite a difference from the riotous scenes in Damascus! We said our goodbyes, and headed up the hill at 4:00 on the nose, Mark B. and Mel departing for Arlington soon thereafter. A surprisingly easy hike up Mt. Rogers (the Virginia "high point.") We took the side-hike to the peak, which has zero view - the standard joke you ask people who climb Mt. Rogers is "How was the view?" Well, now I understand. Lots of clouds but (despite the forecast) still no signs of rain yet. Also no signs of any of the local wild ponies. Did the final quarter mile to the shelter (I think it's "Thomas Knob Shelter"); had about 8 people on the lower deck, but only one upstairs, "Cas," a female former Army M.P. There were also roughly 20 more people tenting in the area, over about a half-mile stretch of the A.T. Chilly again (doubtless due to the altitude and breeze), so we did a quick dinner by 8:00 pm. After getting some water from the spring, I went upstairs, but Mark stayed outside to write some postcards. It started raining (at last) around 9:30 or so, and rained hard on and off through the night - I was happy to be quite dry in the shelter attic area. 4 1/2 miles today, plus an extra mile for the side-hike to the peak - a good "nero."
Saturday, May 16, 2009
Day 42 - Trail Days and Trail Magic
Friday, 5/15 - (At the Virginia Inn at Marion, VA) Got up at 6:30; I quickly ran back over to the Magnusson for a final email check - none. So returned to the room and finished packing. At 7:30, Mark and I hit the Continental Breakfast again, this time with two other fellow hikers (who we had not seen before). At 8:10 Nat and Bill showed up, and we loaded our gear into the back of their SUV and headed off to Damascus. This time via I-81 S and U.S. 58, so a much less hair-raising ride than what we had faced coming down from Elk Garden two days ago! Surprisingly,there was very little vehicular or pedestrian traffic in town, and it was frankly hard to see where the "up to 25,000 people" estimate was coming from (I'm not seeing it). Nat and Bill stopped near the Montgomery B&B, and with the help of Blackbird (the sick hiker we assisted at Apple House), we got some photos under the Trail Days Banner. With that, Nat and Bill took off for another one of their hikes, with our grateful appreciation. We got permission from Suzie Montgomery to leave our packs on her front porch, which saved us a lot of aggravation for the day.
Once we transferred our gear over, Mark and I then headed down to the main vendor area, and did a full up and return sweep of all the booths. Lots of amazing stuff there, including a wide variety of ultralight sil-nyl tents - one of which I think I will almost certainly buy tomorrow (I'm deciding between two different models). We went through the area one more time, and then headed up to the "Tent City" area, where many hikers were tenting out. On the way, we passed some free food at the "Rock School" because of the very long lines there; as it turned out, they sold out there in about 15 minutes, so just as well that we didn't wait. At Tent City, there were still more vendors, including about a half a dozen who were offering various repair services for packs, hiking poles, boots, and so on.After checking out all the options, we headed back to the B&B, emptied our packs, and started back to Tent City.
I first stopped at the Mt. Rogers Outfitters to see if they had any replacement hip-belts and shoulder straps (they didn't), and also to price their lightest tents. But the guy adjusted my straps a bit, and it did seem to ride a bit easier when he was done. Then we headed back up to Tent City; Mark dropped off his pack (lift strap ripped out, shoulder strap going quickly too), while I dropped off my poles at the Leki tent. While Mark was checking out the other vendors, I also brought my pack to the "general gear repair" tent, where they further adjusted my various straps and re-sewed my hip belt, right there on the spot. I asked about my shoulder straps, but they felt that they were better left alone as opposed to having an abrasive line (from the thread) on my shoulders. One of the guys there worked at the Outdoor Center at Neel's Gap, and begged me for mypack as a "wall-hanger" for the store, if it made it to Maine - well, OK!
While at the vendor area, we saw a few of our fellow hikers that we knew, and still more as we headed back through the main vendor area, including many we hadn't seen in weeks. It was nice to catch up. However, we also learned of many people who were dropping out at Damascus, right after Trail Days. Heading back towards the B&B, we grabbed lunch at Quincey's. We tried Mark Barker's cell phone (he was coming down to meet us), but only got his voicemail. Then we split up for awhile - I headed back over and carefully reloaded my pack, making a few additional adjustments to the various straps. Mark checked out a few more in-town displays (don't have details). I also moved Mark's stuff a little more undercover, because the weather was looking a bit more threatening as the day wore on. Once I was happy that we were OK even if it rained hard, I headed back over to the library for a quick check of email and the blog. That only took a few minutes, and when I headed back to the B&B, Mark was reading a book and sunning himself. We tried to call Mark Barker's cell phone again, but only got his voicemail (again). Since it was getting on, we checked out the various programs being offered, and decided to hit a documentary on hiking the Continental Divide Trail (the CDT, running along the Rockies from the Mexican Border in NM to Glacier National Park in MT). This is of course one of the ones I am considering doing in some future year (or life). This was being shown at a Youth Ministry Center, and at least 100 hikers were in attendance. A very interesting film - and intimidating as hell - even given the propensity for the filmmakers to glamorize the difficulties, the CDT makes the AT look like a walk in the park. Hmmmmm....
Around 7:00 pm, Mark noted that I had turned my cell phone off (because no signal), so he took it outside, and got through to Mark Barker - they were already in Abingdon, at the Day's Inn, and had been there for about 30 minutes. So Mark W. had them come right away, and then came in to get me. Mark B. and Mel showed up about 25 minutes later, and we guided them to the B&B via cell phone. Despite the long drive, both seemed very happy to see us. After meeting and greetings were over, we loaded up our packs and returned to Abingdon, where Mark B. had brought some trail magic of his own - a grill and a cooler filled with ribs, hamburgers, hot dogs, beer, and soda. And so we had a very pleasant barbecue right there in the parking lot, running up til about 9:45 pm or so. Once we cleaned up, we headed back to our respective rooms, and hit the rack around 10:30 or so. Weather Channel showed a lot of thunderstorms all around southwest Virginia, but we were spared all day, and all night. Thanks much to Mark B. and Mel for their thoughtfulness - way above the call of duty. Another day of rest for Mark W.'s leg; he's feeling better.
Friday, May 15, 2009
Day 41 - Still off the Trail, but Good News!
Thursday, May 14th - Got up at 6:45, and drafted up a list of things that I wanted Marco to send with Mark Barker if possible. We grabbed the Continental Breakfast in the hotel lobby at 7:30. Beautiful day - blue skies, warm - it figures, hmmmm?
At 8:15 Mark headed off to the hospital while I headed over to the Magnusson Hotel to do some blog reports. Sent my list to Marco, then did two blog reports - had to do the second one (for 5/13) twice, because it vanished into thin air just as I was finishing it up. Arrrgh! Mark returned around 10:30 - GOOD NEWS! - the pain is only an "overuse" issue, and the doctor at the hospital recommended some Icy/Hot treatments, ibuprofen, and 3 - 4 days of rest. The latter we're getting anyway.... Unfortunately Mark bought Advil PM instead of Advil, so we'll have to go back to the pharmacy to trade that in - sleepwalking on the A.T. is not recommended! Mark read his email, let folks know the news, and we also noted the local controversy about Goshen being selected for the National Jamboree (big news here in southwestern Virginia, even though it's about a hundred miles from Marion). At 11:00, Mark returned to the hotel, while I finished up some blog reports. We're off to lunch in a few. Bottom line, looks like we're off the trail for 4 days, but then we can continue.
Returned to the hotel just after noon, and had a message from Nat and Bill regarding dinner. I returned a voicemail confirming 8:00 pm at Mi Puerta, or any other place of their choice if they preferred. Mark and I then hit the Pizza Hut lunch buffet, taking our time, then returned to Walgreens to exchange Mark's Advil PM for regular Advil. He also picked up a jar of "Blue EMU," another topical joint and muscle treatment which has been recommended to us by several hikers. We decided against picking up any additional food or supplies, since we'll still likely make Troutdale within 2 days of returning to the trail, and will also likely receive various free food items at Trail Days tomorrow and Saturday.
Back at the hotel, I hand washed yesterday's hiking clothing, then laid them in the sun outside, on a bush. Also watched a bit of "Death Wish" (the original), but didn't get too wrapped up in it. Instead, I headed back over to the Magnusson to type up some additional blog reports for 5/9 and 5/10. Got a return call from Nat around 5:30 confirming that they were off the trail, and would meet us at the hotel at 8:00 pm. I continued typing until roughly 6:30 or so, then headed back across the street. Pulled in my laundry and made a few phone calls, including a long one to my brother Tom, filling him in on why we wouldn't be on the trail for a few days, and to find out how he was doing now that he was back to work again (he sounds absolutely thrilled; uh huh....) Hung out til 8:05, when Nat and Bill showed up. They were still OK with Mi Puerta, so we drove down (one block), and had a very enjoyable dinner and chat, running til about 9:20 or so. They agreed to pick us up at 8:00 am tomorrow morning and take us to Damascus, where we'll eventually link up with Mark Barker and Mel Hermann sometime late afternoon or evening. These guys have truly been a life-saver for us - as I said yesterday, "real" Trail Magic, far more helpful than food and drinks, and just when we needed it most. Mark and I have really benefitted from a number of fortuitous Trail Magics, none more so than these past 30 hours or so. We walked back, Mark to the hotel and me back to the Magnusson to check my email (no new emails) and finish this report (now about 10:00 pm). We'll both mostly pack up tonight so we're ready tomorrow, and will have time to hit the Continental breakfast again. I am hoping that Marco can link up with Mark Barker tonight, and relay my stuff to him before he leaves. If not, not a crisis - I can have him mail it to me up the trail, probably at Adkins (our next stop after Troutdale, I think....)
Mark's leg is feeling much better, hopefully a recovery that will last. Three more days of no hiking and hotel stays will doubtless make a big difference. That's it for tonight.
- Bob
At 8:15 Mark headed off to the hospital while I headed over to the Magnusson Hotel to do some blog reports. Sent my list to Marco, then did two blog reports - had to do the second one (for 5/13) twice, because it vanished into thin air just as I was finishing it up. Arrrgh! Mark returned around 10:30 - GOOD NEWS! - the pain is only an "overuse" issue, and the doctor at the hospital recommended some Icy/Hot treatments, ibuprofen, and 3 - 4 days of rest. The latter we're getting anyway.... Unfortunately Mark bought Advil PM instead of Advil, so we'll have to go back to the pharmacy to trade that in - sleepwalking on the A.T. is not recommended! Mark read his email, let folks know the news, and we also noted the local controversy about Goshen being selected for the National Jamboree (big news here in southwestern Virginia, even though it's about a hundred miles from Marion). At 11:00, Mark returned to the hotel, while I finished up some blog reports. We're off to lunch in a few. Bottom line, looks like we're off the trail for 4 days, but then we can continue.
Returned to the hotel just after noon, and had a message from Nat and Bill regarding dinner. I returned a voicemail confirming 8:00 pm at Mi Puerta, or any other place of their choice if they preferred. Mark and I then hit the Pizza Hut lunch buffet, taking our time, then returned to Walgreens to exchange Mark's Advil PM for regular Advil. He also picked up a jar of "Blue EMU," another topical joint and muscle treatment which has been recommended to us by several hikers. We decided against picking up any additional food or supplies, since we'll still likely make Troutdale within 2 days of returning to the trail, and will also likely receive various free food items at Trail Days tomorrow and Saturday.
Back at the hotel, I hand washed yesterday's hiking clothing, then laid them in the sun outside, on a bush. Also watched a bit of "Death Wish" (the original), but didn't get too wrapped up in it. Instead, I headed back over to the Magnusson to type up some additional blog reports for 5/9 and 5/10. Got a return call from Nat around 5:30 confirming that they were off the trail, and would meet us at the hotel at 8:00 pm. I continued typing until roughly 6:30 or so, then headed back across the street. Pulled in my laundry and made a few phone calls, including a long one to my brother Tom, filling him in on why we wouldn't be on the trail for a few days, and to find out how he was doing now that he was back to work again (he sounds absolutely thrilled; uh huh....) Hung out til 8:05, when Nat and Bill showed up. They were still OK with Mi Puerta, so we drove down (one block), and had a very enjoyable dinner and chat, running til about 9:20 or so. They agreed to pick us up at 8:00 am tomorrow morning and take us to Damascus, where we'll eventually link up with Mark Barker and Mel Hermann sometime late afternoon or evening. These guys have truly been a life-saver for us - as I said yesterday, "real" Trail Magic, far more helpful than food and drinks, and just when we needed it most. Mark and I have really benefitted from a number of fortuitous Trail Magics, none more so than these past 30 hours or so. We walked back, Mark to the hotel and me back to the Magnusson to check my email (no new emails) and finish this report (now about 10:00 pm). We'll both mostly pack up tonight so we're ready tomorrow, and will have time to hit the Continental breakfast again. I am hoping that Marco can link up with Mark Barker tonight, and relay my stuff to him before he leaves. If not, not a crisis - I can have him mail it to me up the trail, probably at Adkins (our next stop after Troutdale, I think....)
Mark's leg is feeling much better, hopefully a recovery that will last. Three more days of no hiking and hotel stays will doubtless make a big difference. That's it for tonight.
- Bob
Day 40 - Off the Trail with Fingers Crossed
(2nd Effort. Much to my aggravation, the first one disappeared just as I was finishing it. Arrgh.)Got up at 6:00, but Mark requested another half an hour, so we lounged 'til then before actually rousing. 48 degrees, high moderate overcast with a watery sun, still a chilly breeze blowing. Quick breakdown and on the trail by 6:55 - our fastest departure to date. Of the 7 people around the ponds, we were the first out. We were intending to do either 16 or 21 miles to a shelter. If we could make 21 miles, that would make the hike to Troutdale (Dickey Gap) around 16.5 miles, enabling us to get in on Thursday late afternoon. Otherwise we'll have to really hustle on Friday morning, to make the shuttle back to Trail Days in Damascus.
Breakfast after an hour on the trail. Various ups and down to VA 601 (or 608?), then a very long uphill to Whitetop Mtn, which is Virginia's 2nd highest point. Quite windy on the southern face that we were climbing - 15 - 30 mph. Most of the upper mountain was an old orchard, maybe apples. Finally made it to Buzzard Rock (or Rocks), offering some great views (Pete - sent a photo of this earlier today - got it - see above). Very windy here. Whitetop Mtn is poorly named - the actual peak is quite dark, almost black, due to a thick grove of evergreens, either hemlocks or spruces. Looks a little like Black Mountain at Philmont. The trail did not go over the actual peak, but rather around it to the right. There was an access side trail to the peak, but since we were trying to make 21 miles, and it didn't look like there'd be any view anyway, we passed on climbing to the peak.
This part of the trail was the roughest we had seen so far in VA, rocky and uneven, and Mark starting experiencing sharp pain in his left quadriceps, which got worse and worse as we headed downhill off the mountain. By the time we reached Elk Park (VA 600), he stopped and said he couldn't go any further. So we took an hour break at a campsite just off the parking lot there, and I massaged his quad and surrounding area, twice, to see if that would help. Several other hikers passed us during this time. We started up again on the climb to Mt. Rogers, but within five minutes Mark said "No Go," so we returned back to the park, intending to hitch back to Damascus or Abingdon, or at worst camping in place off the parking lot. Fortunately a guy who had just passed us (also heading back downhill) turned out to be an ATC member, and he offered us a ride to VA 58 - a good thing, because VA 600 was a sparsely travelled road, with scant opportunities to get a hitch back to any town. This guy (Nat; trail name Natty Bumpo) was doing short day hikes with his brother in law (Bill Norris) - Bill drove up to the peaks and walked down, while Nat climbed up to the peaks and drove down. So Nat was doing the climb to Whitetop, but would give us a lift as soon as he drove back down. Now that's "real" trail magic!
So we hung out, eventually putting on our rain gear against the chill and wind - the day finally got very nice - clear blue skies with a few fluffy clouds - but it was still pretty cold. Another group of 3 (including Captain Caveman, plus a dog) came down and also tried to hitch in; no luck there. I checked the parking lot kiosk and saw there was a hospital in Marion, which is where Nat and Bill were staying, at Hungry Mother State Park (in their RV). After about an hour and a half, Nat returned, and agreed that it made sense to take us to Marion. Since Bill was still on the trail, Nat then took the other group down to US 58. He returned about 20 minutes later, and we loaded up, literally one minute before Bill showed up. And so we headed off to Marion on 600, 58, and 16, all three very sharply descending, windy roads. Nat and Bill were very friendly, and we enjoyed the ride, chatting about various issues about the trail.
In Marion, we eventually settled on the Virginia House Motor Inn, nice place and not too pricey, plus fairly close to various restaurants and other useful places (pharmacy, WalMart, etc.) We got Nat's and Bill's c.p. #'s, and offered to treat them to dinner the next night, which they accepted (they chose a Mexican place near the hotel). After moving to our room, we quickly headed off to eat at the Pioneer, because it allegedly closed within the hour (it was 7:10 or so), but it fact they closed at 2:30 because of the recession. So we hit the only oher close place, the Mexican restaurant (Mi Puerta), in deference to Mark's leg - he was still hurting. Decent food. That took us till about 8:45, at which point Mark went back to the room and I headed off to the Magnusson Hotel across the street, which has courtesy Internet for the patrons of the Virginia Inn. Sent some brief emails to Pete and Pauline letting them know of our situation, then headed back to the Inn. Grabbed a much-needed shower, then called Marco and discussed various house issues. Hit the rack around 10:00, but Mark stayed up for Sports Center and some other programs. Plan is to see how a night of rest helps - or not - and then hit the hospital first thing tomorrow morning, while I do some blog reports at the Magnusson.
So, turned into another semi-nero, 11 miles and Whitetop Mtn. done, but obviously we are both very concerned about whether Mark can continue. Our fingers are crossed!
- Bob
- Bob
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Day 39 - Damascus & Drying Out
Tuesday, May 12th - Got up at 7:20 or so to clear skies overhead, mountains still sheathed in fog, pretty cool yet. Got our laundry together and headed up the street to "Cowboys" - a combination restaurant and mini-mart. The laundromat was across the street, so after ordering breakfast I headed over and started our laundry. Priciest laundromat on the trail so far, but beggars can't be choosey, and we'd soon be personna non grata in the entire state if we didn't wash our stuff. We're pretty rank, so you pay the freight whatever it is.
At Cowboys, Mark got the Hiker's Special, but I stayed with pancakes, and gave the third one to Mark to augment the Special (which in reality wasn't all that much food, though it was cheap enough). We chatted with a local who had some knowledge of upcoming towns and crossings, learning about possible shuttles back to Damascus from the Troutdale area (where we plan to be in 3 days, when Trail Days gets fired up). I went back to the laundromat to switch our stuff to a dryer, then back to Cowboys. Other hikers showed up, and I spent a few minutes getting additional numbers entered into my new phone, including Gary's.
After about 1 1/2 hours, we both headed back to the laundromat and finished up there, then returned to the B&B, stopping several times to chat with other hiker groups we knew. Once back, Mark headed off to the Mt. Rogers Outfitters for fuel, then to the Post Office. I gathered my gear off the clothesline, re-sorted the rest of my laundry, packed, and moved everything to the front porch to free up the room. At 10:45 I headed back over to the library, but their Internet was down, so I returned to the B&B just as Mark was finishing up his repacking. We both weighed our packs, and came in almost identically, around 38 pounds each, with water and 3 days of food; not bad, but I suspect we'll be below 35 each when we lose the last of our cold weather gear; at least I hope! We both need to pay closer attention to how much food we have - so far we've pulled into each resupply point with a day or two (or more) of food remaining, and that's just weight for no purpose other than exercise. And I think we're getting enough exercise already!
We saddled up at 11:20 and headed to the end of town, where we ate lunch at a Subways. Then back to the trail (12:30 or so), which for the first mile was along the Virginia Creeper Trail (a rather famous bike trail down here). We promptly missed the turn-off for the actual A.T. (no double blaze!!!), so lost 20 minutes figuring that out and getting back where we belonged. At least it was a beautiful day by this point, clear and cool. We humped over two pretty stiff mountains, but it was considerably easier - the trails in VA are (in general) much nicer than in GA, NC, or TN - better graded, wider, and with more switchbacks. They have their rough spots, but it's so far easy to see why people say that the AT gets a lot easier once you reach VA.
We arrived at our intended destination (Saunders Shelter) at 5:00 pm, and met Frebird coming out just as we got to the access (side) trail. He indicated that there was a campsite with water another 2 miles down the trail, and since it was only 5 pm, we decided to continue on and make tomorrow's hike 18 or 23 miles planned) that much shorter. So we climbed yet another minor mountain peak (not bad since we were already up on the ridge anyway), then down to a gap, getting to the site at 6:15. Nice site under large white pines, reasonably flat. However, the water was from two rather stagnant looking ponds, which were unappealing, so I headed uphill past the upper pond and found the actual source, much better looking. Judging from the various trails, most people were taking water from the ponds, so maybe it's not so surprising how many people have been coming up sick these past 3 - 4 weeks. As I've mentioned before, a lot of A.T. Thru-Hikers could use about 2 years in the Boy Scouts; they'd be a hell of a lot better at basic camping skills.
It got chilly pretty quick once the sun went behind the mountains, so we ate dinner fairly quickly, hung the bear-bags, got a little cleaned up, and hit the rack around 8:30 or so. Freebird and another couple (Bark and Berry) shared the site with us, and there were two other single campers on the other side of the ponds. 11 miles today, in another semi-nero; not bad.
At Cowboys, Mark got the Hiker's Special, but I stayed with pancakes, and gave the third one to Mark to augment the Special (which in reality wasn't all that much food, though it was cheap enough). We chatted with a local who had some knowledge of upcoming towns and crossings, learning about possible shuttles back to Damascus from the Troutdale area (where we plan to be in 3 days, when Trail Days gets fired up). I went back to the laundromat to switch our stuff to a dryer, then back to Cowboys. Other hikers showed up, and I spent a few minutes getting additional numbers entered into my new phone, including Gary's.
After about 1 1/2 hours, we both headed back to the laundromat and finished up there, then returned to the B&B, stopping several times to chat with other hiker groups we knew. Once back, Mark headed off to the Mt. Rogers Outfitters for fuel, then to the Post Office. I gathered my gear off the clothesline, re-sorted the rest of my laundry, packed, and moved everything to the front porch to free up the room. At 10:45 I headed back over to the library, but their Internet was down, so I returned to the B&B just as Mark was finishing up his repacking. We both weighed our packs, and came in almost identically, around 38 pounds each, with water and 3 days of food; not bad, but I suspect we'll be below 35 each when we lose the last of our cold weather gear; at least I hope! We both need to pay closer attention to how much food we have - so far we've pulled into each resupply point with a day or two (or more) of food remaining, and that's just weight for no purpose other than exercise. And I think we're getting enough exercise already!
We saddled up at 11:20 and headed to the end of town, where we ate lunch at a Subways. Then back to the trail (12:30 or so), which for the first mile was along the Virginia Creeper Trail (a rather famous bike trail down here). We promptly missed the turn-off for the actual A.T. (no double blaze!!!), so lost 20 minutes figuring that out and getting back where we belonged. At least it was a beautiful day by this point, clear and cool. We humped over two pretty stiff mountains, but it was considerably easier - the trails in VA are (in general) much nicer than in GA, NC, or TN - better graded, wider, and with more switchbacks. They have their rough spots, but it's so far easy to see why people say that the AT gets a lot easier once you reach VA.
We arrived at our intended destination (Saunders Shelter) at 5:00 pm, and met Frebird coming out just as we got to the access (side) trail. He indicated that there was a campsite with water another 2 miles down the trail, and since it was only 5 pm, we decided to continue on and make tomorrow's hike 18 or 23 miles planned) that much shorter. So we climbed yet another minor mountain peak (not bad since we were already up on the ridge anyway), then down to a gap, getting to the site at 6:15. Nice site under large white pines, reasonably flat. However, the water was from two rather stagnant looking ponds, which were unappealing, so I headed uphill past the upper pond and found the actual source, much better looking. Judging from the various trails, most people were taking water from the ponds, so maybe it's not so surprising how many people have been coming up sick these past 3 - 4 weeks. As I've mentioned before, a lot of A.T. Thru-Hikers could use about 2 years in the Boy Scouts; they'd be a hell of a lot better at basic camping skills.
It got chilly pretty quick once the sun went behind the mountains, so we ate dinner fairly quickly, hung the bear-bags, got a little cleaned up, and hit the rack around 8:30 or so. Freebird and another couple (Bark and Berry) shared the site with us, and there were two other single campers on the other side of the ponds. 11 miles today, in another semi-nero; not bad.
Day 38 - Rain and into Virginia
Monday, May 11th - Sent from the public library in Damascus, far southwest Virginia. After my report last night, it did in fact start raining again at 2:45am, arriving sudden and fairly hard. Lucky we had the warning from the weather band radio (and battened down the hatches before bedding down) or we'd have had a lot of wet gear before we could have gotten everything under cover. Rained on and off til about 7 am. We got up at 6:25, hit the trail about 7:05. It had been forecast to be an eventually sunny day, but in fact it was dreary, misty, and drizzley all day (still gray here at 5:30 pm). We had a much easier trail today, and it showed, as we covered 13 miles in just under 5 hours, including our breaks. That's our fastest speed yet on the trek. Means we hiked 50 miles in 2 1/2 days; not bad. Only real highlight on the trail is we crossed from Tennessee to Virginia at about 10:30 am. No state boundary there, other than a thin line of rocks, plus a sign indicating that we were entering the Mt. Rogers Recreation Area/Thomas Jefferson National Forest. I guess we were expecting more, like sunshine, birds singing, bands playing, pretty girls with laurels, you know (dream on -- not trail magic, but trail delusions?) .... Well, just more drizzle and mist, but nonetheless we're now in our 4th state, and past the 1/5th mark of the trek (roughly 470miles). And I suppose you could say we're now "home," even if it'sprobably 350 miles to Arlington from here.
Damascus - we reserved a room at the Montgomery B&B, very nice place.A little pricey, but all the less expensive lodging has been snapped upby other hikers planning to spend the week here for the upcoming annualTrail Days festival (60,000 people expected in a town with a populationof about 5,000). We will probably return for a day later this week,probably coming back from Troutdale, our next resupply point.
Did lunch at a Pizza Plus all-you-can-oink buffet, then bought food ata Food City. I personnally barely needed anything, having overboughtat Wal-Mart 3 days ago. Hit the Post Office for Mark's latest pickup(maps of VA), then the Mt. Rogers Outfitters (just a look-see), on theway back to the B&B. Hung some of my stuff on their clothes line(hopefully the rain is now over), and headed over to the library tocheck email (one each from Pete Davey and Pauline Clark). We'replanning at eating dinner at a nearby restaurant, Quincy's. I am stilllosing weight, and am now around 150 pounds. But the rate of loss hasdramatically slowed since I started forcing myself to eat more despitemy appetite saying "enough already!" Tomorrow we'll probably have anearly lunch and head on out immediately afterwards, doing 9 miles tothe first shelter north of town. So another sort of reverse "nero,"though 9 miles is not a trivial walk, and there are some very toughclimbs over the next three days, including Mt. Rogers, the VirginiaHigh Point, which we'll do this Wednesday afternoon. We hope to meetMark Barker and Mel Herrmann this Friday at Trail Days - it will benice to see some friendly faces from back home. Time to go!
Rest of report for 5/11:
The weather began to improve rapidly, to clear skies - quite a change. After reviewing the Weather Channel reports, I decided to put my various still wet items outside on the clothes line, including my tent, tarp, boots, and so on; this was around 6 pm or so. Mark followed suit shortly thereafter. Hopefully this will save us 1 or 2 pounds of weight tomorrow (wet stuff is heavy!) Once that was done, everyone in the house (including Gary (Happy), Jonathan Mauer (Blacklist, a former Life Scout from Troop 991 in Springfield), and Freebird (don't know his actual name) went over to Quincey's restaurant for dinner, also enjoying a duo playing a guitar and a fiddle; not bad). Dinner was very enjoyable, talking about the various oddball personalities we had run across since starting the trip. One of the sad things was how many people were dropping off the trail here, or at least so stating. We learned of dropouts at the grocery store, at the library, and even on the street, including many people we had been leapfrogging with for weeks. In some cases the money had run out, in others the enthusiasm was gone - maybe not surprising with all the atrocious weather over the past 6 weeks. Other people had been yellow-striping and/or slack-packing, another 2 clear signs of giving up. Trail Days has a big "Hiker Parade" on either Friday or Saturday, and so everyone so inclined can kind of take their bows to the cheering thousands and head on home. At 475 miles or so, nothing to be ashamed of. We spent about an hour and a half at dinner, then headed back to continue sorting gear. I hit the rack around 9 pm, but Mark stayed downstairs to watch the house TV, some Clark Gable movie on TCM, then something on the History Channel I think he said. I slept "OK" - as I think I mentioned to Pete on the phone a couple of weeks ago, a bed now seems a bit strange and uncomfortable to sleep in, compared to tent living.
- Bob
Damascus - we reserved a room at the Montgomery B&B, very nice place.A little pricey, but all the less expensive lodging has been snapped upby other hikers planning to spend the week here for the upcoming annualTrail Days festival (60,000 people expected in a town with a populationof about 5,000). We will probably return for a day later this week,probably coming back from Troutdale, our next resupply point.
Did lunch at a Pizza Plus all-you-can-oink buffet, then bought food ata Food City. I personnally barely needed anything, having overboughtat Wal-Mart 3 days ago. Hit the Post Office for Mark's latest pickup(maps of VA), then the Mt. Rogers Outfitters (just a look-see), on theway back to the B&B. Hung some of my stuff on their clothes line(hopefully the rain is now over), and headed over to the library tocheck email (one each from Pete Davey and Pauline Clark). We'replanning at eating dinner at a nearby restaurant, Quincy's. I am stilllosing weight, and am now around 150 pounds. But the rate of loss hasdramatically slowed since I started forcing myself to eat more despitemy appetite saying "enough already!" Tomorrow we'll probably have anearly lunch and head on out immediately afterwards, doing 9 miles tothe first shelter north of town. So another sort of reverse "nero,"though 9 miles is not a trivial walk, and there are some very toughclimbs over the next three days, including Mt. Rogers, the VirginiaHigh Point, which we'll do this Wednesday afternoon. We hope to meetMark Barker and Mel Herrmann this Friday at Trail Days - it will benice to see some friendly faces from back home. Time to go!
Rest of report for 5/11:
The weather began to improve rapidly, to clear skies - quite a change. After reviewing the Weather Channel reports, I decided to put my various still wet items outside on the clothes line, including my tent, tarp, boots, and so on; this was around 6 pm or so. Mark followed suit shortly thereafter. Hopefully this will save us 1 or 2 pounds of weight tomorrow (wet stuff is heavy!) Once that was done, everyone in the house (including Gary (Happy), Jonathan Mauer (Blacklist, a former Life Scout from Troop 991 in Springfield), and Freebird (don't know his actual name) went over to Quincey's restaurant for dinner, also enjoying a duo playing a guitar and a fiddle; not bad). Dinner was very enjoyable, talking about the various oddball personalities we had run across since starting the trip. One of the sad things was how many people were dropping off the trail here, or at least so stating. We learned of dropouts at the grocery store, at the library, and even on the street, including many people we had been leapfrogging with for weeks. In some cases the money had run out, in others the enthusiasm was gone - maybe not surprising with all the atrocious weather over the past 6 weeks. Other people had been yellow-striping and/or slack-packing, another 2 clear signs of giving up. Trail Days has a big "Hiker Parade" on either Friday or Saturday, and so everyone so inclined can kind of take their bows to the cheering thousands and head on home. At 475 miles or so, nothing to be ashamed of. We spent about an hour and a half at dinner, then headed back to continue sorting gear. I hit the rack around 9 pm, but Mark stayed downstairs to watch the house TV, some Clark Gable movie on TCM, then something on the History Channel I think he said. I slept "OK" - as I think I mentioned to Pete on the phone a couple of weeks ago, a bed now seems a bit strange and uncomfortable to sleep in, compared to tent living.
- Bob
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Day 37 - Nearing Virginia
Sunday, May 10th - Had a few spritzes of rain overnight. Got up at 6:30 am, 48 degrees,
windy, but reasonably clear overhead. We were tent camping on a saddle on a side trail several hundred yards down from the VanderLeer Shelter, which had been full when we arrived yesterday. The trail led another 200 yards further down to a water source, which I had
struggled down and back up from the previous night. Four other people camped on the saddle with us, one solo guy and a trio of girls (The Birds) in a 3-man tent. Not the safest campers we had seen, but having a fire the night before kept them safe despite cooking meals in their tents and hanging their bear bags over their tents.
We got going about 7:10 or so, with the long climb back up to the shelter being a tough start to the day. No one had left the shelter or surrounding area yet by the time we passed, so we're first out again. Found a plastic canteen about a half mile up the trail, and carried it (empty) in hopes of reunification, but alas, that never happened (we ended up leaving it in the Hiker's Box at the Mt. Rogers Outfitters in Damascus the next day). At 8:30 we stopped at a nice overlook for breakfast, could STILL see Lake Watauga - the thing is huge, we've been passing it now for 2 days. Had 4 bars on the phone - doubtless there's a c.p. tower somewhere above the lake - so I made a bunch of phone calls, including to my parents to wish my mom a Happy Mother's Day, and also to Pete Davey to let him know that I was back online again (as it were). Mark also called his mom and wife Brenda, and we finally made reservations at a B&B in Damascus (the Montgomery Homestead). We were lucky to get even that, as all the less expensive accommodations were already locked up for the entire week by people zeroing in Damascus right through Trail Days.
After about an hour we continued on, under bright, sunny skies, our best day in quite a while. The trail here was also much better than we had seen almost since starting the trek. Ate lunch at a memorial (possibly the gravesite???) of a well-known hermit who had resided here in the late 1800's/early 1900's; he died in 1923, and the memorial was erected in 1925. [Sorry, I have forgotten the name. -Ed. - His name was Nick Grindstaff, or 'Nick the Hermit'] This guy apparently made a fortune out west in the 1800's, was robbed of every penny, and returned to this area to live out his life in total seclusion. He was 72 years old. The memorial was built into the original chimney of his house. The rather stark epitaph read: "He lived alone; he suffered alone; and he died alone." I think I'll pass on that life-choice, thanks anyway...
Continued on past 2 shelters, both empty - we were trying for the Abingdon Shelter, 23 miles in, only 10 miles from Damascus. It is very small (5 spaces), so we had no expectation of sheltering there, but rather knew we'd have to tent camp. But it would be a water source, anyway. Passed several roads as we hiked, but no trail magic today, even though it was a Sunday - I guess we're getting greedy now after all the luck we've had with weekend Trail Magics. At one road crossing we found a hiking companion, Salty Dog (John); he was linking up with relatives for lunch. His cell phone (Sprint) didn't work there, so I let him use mine, and he was able to confirm his location with them (in fact they showed up just as we were leaving).
Another long climb after that, then rolling country to the first of several occupied campsites, which we continued past. We decided to fill up on water at a creek along the way in case we preferred or had to stop before we made the shelter. We finally ran out of energy around 7:00 pm, and took an unoccupied site about 3 miles short of the Abingdon shelter. And again, we expected the shelter and nearby tent sites to be a zoo anyway. So a 20 mile day, not bad, and "only" a 13 mile semi-nero to Damascus tomorrow. And also about 10 miles to the TN/VA border. After setting up and eating dinner, Mark turned on the weather band radio, and we were both stunned to hear that (despite the nearly clear skies overhead) we had a 70% chance of rain after midnight. So we completed a full camp setup, and once again battened down the hatches and got everything under cover. As it turned out, it started raining around 2:45 am, arriving suddenly and fairly hard. I must say, this rain sure is getting old! But as the saying goes: "No Pain, No Rain, No Maine." Well, we've had plenty of the first two so far!
- Bob
windy, but reasonably clear overhead. We were tent camping on a saddle on a side trail several hundred yards down from the VanderLeer Shelter, which had been full when we arrived yesterday. The trail led another 200 yards further down to a water source, which I had
struggled down and back up from the previous night. Four other people camped on the saddle with us, one solo guy and a trio of girls (The Birds) in a 3-man tent. Not the safest campers we had seen, but having a fire the night before kept them safe despite cooking meals in their tents and hanging their bear bags over their tents.
We got going about 7:10 or so, with the long climb back up to the shelter being a tough start to the day. No one had left the shelter or surrounding area yet by the time we passed, so we're first out again. Found a plastic canteen about a half mile up the trail, and carried it (empty) in hopes of reunification, but alas, that never happened (we ended up leaving it in the Hiker's Box at the Mt. Rogers Outfitters in Damascus the next day). At 8:30 we stopped at a nice overlook for breakfast, could STILL see Lake Watauga - the thing is huge, we've been passing it now for 2 days. Had 4 bars on the phone - doubtless there's a c.p. tower somewhere above the lake - so I made a bunch of phone calls, including to my parents to wish my mom a Happy Mother's Day, and also to Pete Davey to let him know that I was back online again (as it were). Mark also called his mom and wife Brenda, and we finally made reservations at a B&B in Damascus (the Montgomery Homestead). We were lucky to get even that, as all the less expensive accommodations were already locked up for the entire week by people zeroing in Damascus right through Trail Days.
After about an hour we continued on, under bright, sunny skies, our best day in quite a while. The trail here was also much better than we had seen almost since starting the trek. Ate lunch at a memorial (possibly the gravesite???) of a well-known hermit who had resided here in the late 1800's/early 1900's; he died in 1923, and the memorial was erected in 1925. [Sorry, I have forgotten the name. -Ed. - His name was Nick Grindstaff, or 'Nick the Hermit'] This guy apparently made a fortune out west in the 1800's, was robbed of every penny, and returned to this area to live out his life in total seclusion. He was 72 years old. The memorial was built into the original chimney of his house. The rather stark epitaph read: "He lived alone; he suffered alone; and he died alone." I think I'll pass on that life-choice, thanks anyway...
Continued on past 2 shelters, both empty - we were trying for the Abingdon Shelter, 23 miles in, only 10 miles from Damascus. It is very small (5 spaces), so we had no expectation of sheltering there, but rather knew we'd have to tent camp. But it would be a water source, anyway. Passed several roads as we hiked, but no trail magic today, even though it was a Sunday - I guess we're getting greedy now after all the luck we've had with weekend Trail Magics. At one road crossing we found a hiking companion, Salty Dog (John); he was linking up with relatives for lunch. His cell phone (Sprint) didn't work there, so I let him use mine, and he was able to confirm his location with them (in fact they showed up just as we were leaving).
Another long climb after that, then rolling country to the first of several occupied campsites, which we continued past. We decided to fill up on water at a creek along the way in case we preferred or had to stop before we made the shelter. We finally ran out of energy around 7:00 pm, and took an unoccupied site about 3 miles short of the Abingdon shelter. And again, we expected the shelter and nearby tent sites to be a zoo anyway. So a 20 mile day, not bad, and "only" a 13 mile semi-nero to Damascus tomorrow. And also about 10 miles to the TN/VA border. After setting up and eating dinner, Mark turned on the weather band radio, and we were both stunned to hear that (despite the nearly clear skies overhead) we had a 70% chance of rain after midnight. So we completed a full camp setup, and once again battened down the hatches and got everything under cover. As it turned out, it started raining around 2:45 am, arriving suddenly and fairly hard. I must say, this rain sure is getting old! But as the saying goes: "No Pain, No Rain, No Maine." Well, we've had plenty of the first two so far!
- Bob
Day 36 - Wading the Appalachian Trail
Saturday, May 9th - Got up at 6:00 am to again check my email at the Hiker Kitchen, but
could not log on (found out later that Marco had used the wrong password the previous night, so I was locked out of my account til he fixed it). Did check weather.com, and saw that we had a large line of rain and thunderstorms coming at us, looking like it would arive around 8:30 or so. It was rather dismal looking outside, so it seemed rain was a certainty (again, sigh). At 6:45 I returned to our "cabin," and Mark and I finished packing up. I also finished boxing up the rest of our un-needed gear, and left it in the room with $15 cash for Brady to mail to my house at his leisure. All together, probably 5 pounds less stuff for us to carry.
Left around 7:40, and headed down for the trail magic at the "brown house by the A.T." In fact, we were the first to arrive, at 7:50 or so, but they were already ready for us. Quite a spread, with pancakes, bacon, hot muffins, fresh fruit, coffee, sodas, etc. One of the servers turned out to be the same guy that sold Mark his A.T. maps at Harper's Ferry last March; small world.... They were planning on serving three meals, all day long. Within 10 minutes about 30 people from the Kicora Hostel showed up, plus a few more straggled in from various nearby campsites. Oddly enough, many people were reverse hiking or slack-packing today, getting a shuttle out past Pond Mountain and returning for a second meal at the Trail Magic and another cheap night ($4) at Kicora. A few indicated they were going to stay at the Trail Magic all day (which I personally think is rather abusing the privilege). We left at 8:30 or so, with thank you's all around, and headed back out on the trail.
Very interesting walk - along the Laurel Fork creek, through some small gorges cut by the creek eons ago, past a really impressive waterfall, and along a creekside trail that was two foot or less wide, the cliff to one side and the creek on the other. Also past some neat flowering plants; some with very unusual colors. Then a very long uphill up Pond Mountain, pretty tough, especially near the top. Many of the slack-packers passed us on the way back to the Trail Magic (hustling right along, I will add). Grabbed lunch on top, with a partial view of Watauga Lake, a huge
TVA project lake. Since we had 2-3 bars, I went ahad and activated the new phone, and added the hundred dollar card while I was at it - but made no phone calls yet.
Headed down to Watauga Lake, where we ran into intermittent showers and an unexpected surprise to find that the trail was under water in about a half a dozen places. We managed to work around some of them, but in the end we switched our boots with our camp shoes and waded two stretches, the first of which was about 30-40 feet and up to my thighs. Sure wish I had thought to get THAT on camera: "Wading the Appalachian Trail" as the caption. Should have brought a fly rod. Took about an hour and a half to walk what should have taken 15 minutes - the hairiest part was avoiding the extensive poison ivy and briars during the workarounds. I think the local ATC has some work to do here....
Finally worked around to the Watauga Lake shelter (which we bypassed), and started climbing up to the dam, reaching it within about 20 minutes. Very impressive spot; we grabbed a few photos as we crossed over it on an access road. Then we had a VERY long uphill, tough going, to get up to the ridgeline again. Intermiitent rain and drizzle, very humid - quite a slog. We didn't bother with raingear, due to the humidity and still fairly high temperatures. I think Mark said it was about 7 miles of mostly uphill, with about a 3,000 foot elevation gain net; it took us almost 5 hours to finish it. Got plenty of great bird's eye views of the lake along the way. We did 17 1/2 miles getting to the Vandervaleer Shelter. The shelter turned out to be full, and the few campsites nearby were also taken (the ridgeline was quite narrow here), but the people there told us that there was a decent tentsite down about 300 yards along the trail to the water source, so we backtracked about a hundred yards and headed down a very steep and slick trail, and found the site, in a saddle on a connector ridge. Two tents already there, with a fire sort of going, but (barely) enough room for the two of us as well. The water turned out to be another 200 yards further down the draw, on an even steeper trail. I took care of that chore for both of us, and it took almost 25 minutes. Misty, increasingly windy, and chilly in the saddle, plus we were out of daylight, so it was a hurried setup and dinner, and a late bearbag. Amazingly, our fellow campers (a solo guy and a trio of girls) were cooking in their tents, and after waiting too long decided against hanging their bear bags at all (they WERE going to hang them above our tents at one point, til Mark said "I don't think so!") Fortunately the fire smell kept us all safe, despite their carelessness. In the tents around 9:15 or so. Long day!
- Bob
could not log on (found out later that Marco had used the wrong password the previous night, so I was locked out of my account til he fixed it). Did check weather.com, and saw that we had a large line of rain and thunderstorms coming at us, looking like it would arive around 8:30 or so. It was rather dismal looking outside, so it seemed rain was a certainty (again, sigh). At 6:45 I returned to our "cabin," and Mark and I finished packing up. I also finished boxing up the rest of our un-needed gear, and left it in the room with $15 cash for Brady to mail to my house at his leisure. All together, probably 5 pounds less stuff for us to carry.
Left around 7:40, and headed down for the trail magic at the "brown house by the A.T." In fact, we were the first to arrive, at 7:50 or so, but they were already ready for us. Quite a spread, with pancakes, bacon, hot muffins, fresh fruit, coffee, sodas, etc. One of the servers turned out to be the same guy that sold Mark his A.T. maps at Harper's Ferry last March; small world.... They were planning on serving three meals, all day long. Within 10 minutes about 30 people from the Kicora Hostel showed up, plus a few more straggled in from various nearby campsites. Oddly enough, many people were reverse hiking or slack-packing today, getting a shuttle out past Pond Mountain and returning for a second meal at the Trail Magic and another cheap night ($4) at Kicora. A few indicated they were going to stay at the Trail Magic all day (which I personally think is rather abusing the privilege). We left at 8:30 or so, with thank you's all around, and headed back out on the trail.
Very interesting walk - along the Laurel Fork creek, through some small gorges cut by the creek eons ago, past a really impressive waterfall, and along a creekside trail that was two foot or less wide, the cliff to one side and the creek on the other. Also past some neat flowering plants; some with very unusual colors. Then a very long uphill up Pond Mountain, pretty tough, especially near the top. Many of the slack-packers passed us on the way back to the Trail Magic (hustling right along, I will add). Grabbed lunch on top, with a partial view of Watauga Lake, a huge
TVA project lake. Since we had 2-3 bars, I went ahad and activated the new phone, and added the hundred dollar card while I was at it - but made no phone calls yet.
Headed down to Watauga Lake, where we ran into intermittent showers and an unexpected surprise to find that the trail was under water in about a half a dozen places. We managed to work around some of them, but in the end we switched our boots with our camp shoes and waded two stretches, the first of which was about 30-40 feet and up to my thighs. Sure wish I had thought to get THAT on camera: "Wading the Appalachian Trail" as the caption. Should have brought a fly rod. Took about an hour and a half to walk what should have taken 15 minutes - the hairiest part was avoiding the extensive poison ivy and briars during the workarounds. I think the local ATC has some work to do here....
Finally worked around to the Watauga Lake shelter (which we bypassed), and started climbing up to the dam, reaching it within about 20 minutes. Very impressive spot; we grabbed a few photos as we crossed over it on an access road. Then we had a VERY long uphill, tough going, to get up to the ridgeline again. Intermiitent rain and drizzle, very humid - quite a slog. We didn't bother with raingear, due to the humidity and still fairly high temperatures. I think Mark said it was about 7 miles of mostly uphill, with about a 3,000 foot elevation gain net; it took us almost 5 hours to finish it. Got plenty of great bird's eye views of the lake along the way. We did 17 1/2 miles getting to the Vandervaleer Shelter. The shelter turned out to be full, and the few campsites nearby were also taken (the ridgeline was quite narrow here), but the people there told us that there was a decent tentsite down about 300 yards along the trail to the water source, so we backtracked about a hundred yards and headed down a very steep and slick trail, and found the site, in a saddle on a connector ridge. Two tents already there, with a fire sort of going, but (barely) enough room for the two of us as well. The water turned out to be another 200 yards further down the draw, on an even steeper trail. I took care of that chore for both of us, and it took almost 25 minutes. Misty, increasingly windy, and chilly in the saddle, plus we were out of daylight, so it was a hurried setup and dinner, and a late bearbag. Amazingly, our fellow campers (a solo guy and a trio of girls) were cooking in their tents, and after waiting too long decided against hanging their bear bags at all (they WERE going to hang them above our tents at one point, til Mark said "I don't think so!") Fortunately the fire smell kept us all safe, despite their carelessness. In the tents around 9:15 or so. Long day!
- Bob
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Day 35 - Phone Issues
Friday, May 8th, 5:55pm - I am sending this from a computer in Dennis Cove TN. I bought another phone at Walmart today, plus a hundred dollar card. Unfortunately no
service here so can't activate yet. Am charging up, and will attempt to activate tomorrow, and will call you if successful. I understand from Gary Alexander that my original phone has not yet arrived at your house. If still correct please call the Holiday Inn Express in Erwin, TN, and see if it ever went out. I suppose UPS may not have made a delivery there, and so they are still hanging on it. Who knows. At this point, the phone should be mailed to me at Troutdale, VA, which is the next resupply point after Damascus. We should be there in about a week.
I will try to get back on this computer late tonight or tomorrow morning very early. If you get this message please respond, and include the phone number for the faculty voicemail, so I can start sending updates again.
All is well here, but Mark and I are getting very tired of rain, rain, and more rain. Just our luck, it seems it's the wettest year in quite some time, at least according to the locals here. We finished 400 miles yesterday, and expect to be in Virginia (Damascus) late Monday or midday Tuesday. We're hoping VA will be a bit easier and drier than NC and TN. Seeya....
- Bob
service here so can't activate yet. Am charging up, and will attempt to activate tomorrow, and will call you if successful. I understand from Gary Alexander that my original phone has not yet arrived at your house. If still correct please call the Holiday Inn Express in Erwin, TN, and see if it ever went out. I suppose UPS may not have made a delivery there, and so they are still hanging on it. Who knows. At this point, the phone should be mailed to me at Troutdale, VA, which is the next resupply point after Damascus. We should be there in about a week.
I will try to get back on this computer late tonight or tomorrow morning very early. If you get this message please respond, and include the phone number for the faculty voicemail, so I can start sending updates again.
All is well here, but Mark and I are getting very tired of rain, rain, and more rain. Just our luck, it seems it's the wettest year in quite some time, at least according to the locals here. We finished 400 miles yesterday, and expect to be in Virginia (Damascus) late Monday or midday Tuesday. We're hoping VA will be a bit easier and drier than NC and TN. Seeya....
- Bob
Apologies ...
Folks,
My apologies. A combination of an emergency appendectomy for me and Bob's phone dying has backed up the reporting on this blog severely. Will endeavor to catch up over the next 3 or 4 days. Reports may not always be in order as a result!
My apologies. A combination of an emergency appendectomy for me and Bob's phone dying has backed up the reporting on this blog severely. Will endeavor to catch up over the next 3 or 4 days. Reports may not always be in order as a result!
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