Dr. Bob on the Hoof - The Appalachian Trail

Day 81 - And We're Done ...

2009-06-27T14:46:00.005-04:00

Friday, June 26th - Up at 5:25, to overcast skies and 63 degrees, still and already very sultry. Looks like a day for heavy afternoon thunderstorms. After going to get water, we left at 6:15, with a wave to Journey. Mark's feet were still bothering him, even with his old boots, and by the time we got to the crest of the long hill he was semi-limping. Rather than continuing on (in pain) to Fayetteville or Pine Grove Furnace State Park, I suggested that we return to the Old Forge Picnic Area if Mark's mom or Brenda could come today. After a dozen tries, and moving around a bit, we finally got a viable cell phone signal, and arranged for Mark's mom to come get us this morning. So, we returned back down the hill to the Tumbling Run Shelter, passing Journey and the other hiker (forgot his name) on the way up. After eating breakfast on the picnic table there (and further discussing out decision), we pushed back to the Picnic Area, arriving just before 9:00 am. Despite the early hour, there were a (rapidly growing) number of Mennonites (???) already there, setting up what we guessed was a very large picnic on the baseball field. We moved up to a large pavillion, in case it rained, but in fact the day improved rapidly to nearly clear skies - but increasingly warm and still quite sultry.

We listened to the radio for awhile, then a group of about 50 kids and counselors from Camp Penn (a Methodist Church summer camp located right next door to the park) showed up, and so we moved to a free picnic table. The kids quizzed Mark for a few minutes about what we had done, and we were both kind of startled to get a several rounds of applause and cheers from the group. An unexpected accolade to end our trek on. Mark's mom showed up just before 10:30, and we loaded up and headed off to Waynesboro (this one in Pennsylvania) for brunch/lunch. The Golden Corral (our intended destination) didn't open til 11:00, so we instead went to the Mountain Gate Restaurant, enjoying both their breakfast and lunch buffets, while discussing our decision with Mark's mom. Then back in the car for the drive home (I semi-napped in the back seat). She dropped Mark off around 1:00, then myself at 1:30, thus ending our trek. [As a final aside, let me offer our collective thanks to Mark's mom, who was always "there" for us the entire trek.]

Joint Statement from Mark Wray & Bob Klein about leaving the A.T.:
We left the A.T. at the Old Forge Picnic Area in southern Pennsylvania on Friday, June 26th, after completing nearly 1100 miles (the southern half of the trail) during a particularly challenging year. We both decided that hiking and camping (being two of our favorite activites) were too important to us to be reduced to a daily chore. We have been told that some folks finish the A.T. merely to "get it over with," or for a plaque on the wall. This was never our intention or desire. At this time we don't have any plans for finishing the northern half of the trail. We may do it in sections over the next few years, we may take another long trek after we retire, or we may never finish. We are proud of our accomplishments, and enjoyed the time we had on the trail and our time together. And we have gained a new respect for those few that complete the entire trek. Thanks to everyone who supported us along the way. This was the toughest physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual challenge we had ever faced, but it was also a remarkable adventure. We hope others may someday follow in our shoes. See you "down the trail ..."

Day 80 - Over the Mason-Dixon Line, & a Big Decision

2009-06-27T14:28:00.004-04:00

Thursday, June 24th - Up at 6:30, to clear but hazy skies, and increased humidity. I got up a little earlier in order to complete yesterday's blog report. Mark got up just before 7:00, and prepped breakfast (sausage and scrambled eggs) for both of us (David and Carol declined - apparently, they rarely eat breakfast). Done by 7:45, and packed up and on our way just after 8:00, with thanks to Carol. David drove us back up to the trailhead, and with additional thanks for all the hospitality, and his wishes for good luck, we were back on the trail.

Today's trails were a repeat of yesterday's - some nice stretches, some nasty stretches, and again a lot of road crossings. There were also a lot of trail crossings, many of them unmarked (I guess you just have to know!) It was also noticeably hotter and more humid than it had been yesterday, or maybe we were just feeling it more. Mark's feet were better with his old boots, but he was still hurting. We passed a bunch of shelters today, set surprisingly close together and also close to local roads - Ensign Cowall, Raven Rocks, others, plus a PATC Cabin. We stopped at the trail junction for Raven Rocks, and I headed down about a quarter mile for water. Mark chatted with a northbound section hiker (Walker Kentucky Ranger) while I got the water. Contrary to what the book said, the spring was well before the shelter, and so I just got water and didn't bother checking the shelter register (the shelter was not in sight, and I didn't care to walk down
the (steep) hill any further). A little later we crossed a small stream that had a dozen sodas bobbing in the water - another Trail Magic. Just after High Rock Overlook, we stopped for lunch, with Walker Kentucky Ranger joining us; nice guy. He was completing Maryland that afternoon, then heading home. We pushed on down a very steep and rocky stretch - the northern end of South Mountain.

On the way down, however, Mark indicated that he wanted to leave the trail when we reached Pine Grove Furnace State Park, the halfway point. Quite a shock to me! We talked about it at length as we walked down the hill, and he explained his thoughts. In addition to several personal reasons (which I will not detail here), he strongly felt that the trek had become a chore, and simply wasn't fun or interesting anymore. Thinking about it, I agreed - and also knew that I had a serious question now, whether I should continue or quit. Having done the hundred mile stretch from Mt. Rogers Visitor's Center to Pearisburg alone, I was unenthused about another 1100 miles of the same - and one of the main reasons (probably THE main reason) why I had started the trek this year was because Mark was going. Needless to say, my mind was running about a hundred miles an hour for the rest of the day (and well into the wee hours of the morning) as I pondered my decision.

Eventually we reached Pen-Mar Park, at the Maryland - Pennsylvania border. A southbound section hiker told us that there was a Trail Magic going on at the park, but if so it was over and gone by the time we arrived. But it was a beautiful park, with a fabulous view to the north into southern Pennsylvania; they even had a grandstand set up for the view. Even though it was just a Thursday, there was a surprising number of people there. We took a soda break, and made a few more phone calls, before moving on, stopping for photos at what we think was the actual Mason-Dixon line on Pen-Mar Road. The trail improved dramatically as we headed into Pennsylvania, and we also passed several shelters: Deer Lick and Antietam, the latter having two small shelters side by side. We reached another park, the Old Forge Picnic Ground, and stopped for dinner there (another nice spot). After a half an hour, we pushed on to Tumbling Run Shelter, another two-shelter setup with nice tent sites and both a creek and a spring nearby. There were two hikers there, a female northbound section hiker Journey (a different Journey than the one we had hiked with in southwestern Virginia), with her dog, and a male northbound through-hiker (missed his name).

Due to the bug issue, we decided to tent-camp (as did the other through-hiker). Mark wanted to call Brenda, but there was no cell phone coverage near the shelter, so I set off up the next hill (still on the A.T.), reaching the crest about 20 huffing and puffing minutes later. The issues with U.S. Cellular continued, but eventually I was able to get some calls through. Coming back down the hill, I met Mark coming up - he doubtless thought I had been eaten by a bear or something, I was gone so long. He headed up himself, and I went down and had a nice chat with Journey, discussing whether to quit the trek or not (she was very sympathetic, and also very complimentary of what we had already done). As darkness came on, I went over and yelled up to Mark - and he answered, so no need for me to head back up the hill with my flashlight. After laying out the Spot, and recording the blog entry, we hit the rack around 9:20. So, 18 miles total, plus the extra mile to get up and down the hill for phone calls. Mark fell asleep fairly quickly, but I lay there til about 1:30, still agonizing over my choice to continue or quit. In the end, however, I decided it was the end for me too - though I could do it solo, and would have gone all the way with Mark, I just wasn't interested in doing it alone. I guess there was some relief in that, and I fell asleep soon thereafter. A tough day, physically, mentally, and emotionally.

Day 79 - A Nero into Smithsburg

2009-06-27T13:44:00.008-04:00

Wednesday, June 24th - Up at 5:15 (first ones up), another perfectly clear morning, 58 degrees, no noticeable breeze. On our way at 6:00, again walking the South Mountain ridgeline crest. Within a half an hour, we crossed over Boonsboro Road, then entered the Washington Monument State Park - another very nice facility. Since there were numerous picnic tables and another full-service bathhouse (that was open), we stopped for a quiet breakfast, with only a rabbit and a sizable murder of crows to keep us company (the entire place was completely deserted, as you'd expect for a Wednesday morning).

Once we wrapped that up, we headed up the hill to the actual monument, grabbing some water and reading the various plaques along the way. The A.T. split off about halfway up, but we continued on the historical trail to the monument, which we then climbed for the views. After a few pictures, we returned to the trail and continued on our way. It was a real mixed bag on the trails today - some easy stuff, some brutally rocky stretches. We also crossed over a half a dozen roads today, some of them quite busy. Mark's feet are really bothering him - apparently his new boots are too narrow, and are causing him serious pain, especially on the rocky areas.

We reached the Pine Knob Shelter; we dropped our packs and Mark headed down for water and to check the register. Later we passed the "Pogo" primitive campsite; it had a spring there, but otherwise it wasn't a good place to camp (no level tenting area, lots of rocks). Later we threaded our way through a small residential zone, just before I-70, with the trail running along the property lines of several houses. There was also a trail log there (which we signed); again, very few familiar names over the previous two weeks - most of those signing in are section or weekend hikers. I am beginning to wonder just how many through-hikers are actually out here any more - people who should have easily passed us during our 4-day home visit are not in any of the trail registers, and only about half a dozen of the folks we knew (who had passed us earlier in the trek) are still ahead of us.

Once we passed over I-70 (on the long overhead footbridge that the Troop has gone under a hundred times in my career), we were back in the woods for awhile. Climbing back up the ridge on the opposite side, we were both quite surprised to catch up to Rush Williamson, a Scoutmaster from Maryland and a Contingent Leader for the first one of the Council's Philmont trips this year (Mark knows him very well). He was heading up to Annapolis Rocks to repair the privvy there (and also as a personal shakedown for Philmont). He had through-hiked the A.T. and had more than an hour's worth of advice for us. He split off at Annapolis Rocks, and we continued on. Mark decided to try and get his previous set of boots overnighted to his cousin's house (our destination for the day); after a lot of phone calls (from the top of the ridge), we finally got through, and his mom decided to bring them up to Smithsburg herself. [It was fortunate that we're still close to the Washington area.] The phone coverage in this zone is U.S. Cellular, and (apparently) it doesn't like Verizon very much, so making and receiving calls and voicemails was problematic, requiring multiple attempts.

It got noticeably hot as the afternoon came on, and we had to really hit the water as we were going along. But it wasn't all that oppressive, just hot. Finally descended down to Wolfsville Road, where Carol Fitzgerald picked us up, and 3 minutes later we were at their house (a nice place, set 300 yards back in the woods). So, only 13 miles today, though it felt longer to me. Mark's mom was already there, with Mark's boots, and (after some showers and a load of laundry) we all chatted for a while. David Fitzgerald showed up about an hour later, and Carol took off for an evening function. We headed off with David to a mini-mart and then Food Lion to resupply (and buy some dinner items), then returned to the house. Mark prepped hamburgers on an outside grill for dinner while I did a quick check of email. We continued chatting with David and Mark's mom over dinner about the trail, and then I headed up for bed around 7:00 - for some reason I was really staggering with fatigue today, probably due to the heat. Mark's mom left for Arlington about the same time. David offered to clean everything up, which was greatly appreciated, and he and Mark talked for several hours as I caught some extra sleep. A nice break!

Day 78 - Back at it; Goodbye West Virginia, Hello Maryland

2009-06-27T07:48:00.002-04:00

Tuesday, June 22nd - Got up at 5:30 and grabbed a final (pre-trail) shower. Then checked email, discussed a few final issues with Marco, and headed off to McD's for a quick breakfast. Back to the house at 6:45, and finished my packup by 7:00. Mark and his son William showed up at 7:20, and we headed back to Harper's Ferry, arriving at the 340 bridge parking lot around 8:30. Beautiful day, clear blue skies and low humidity, with a light breeze. We loaded up and headed out by 8:40, with William departing as we walked away.

We started out along the river for a bit, passing Jefferson's Rock (nice views), then walking through a bit of the Harper's Ferry Historic District (spending a few minutes to read the various plaques along the way). Eventually we crossed the Potomac on a footbridge adjacent to the railroad bridge, entering Maryland (our sixth state!) Walked along the C&O Towpath for roughly 2 1/2 miles, where we saw a turtle attempting to lay eggs (another first for me); there were also some very large mud turtles sunning themselves on logs and rocks in the canal itslf (which was green ooze here). Eventually we cut left over the canal and started up the long climb up South Mountain (which runs nearly across the entire state). The trail runs down the center of the ridge, which is fairly wide and flat. Some nice trail, but also some really rocky sections. Passed (but did not stop at) two shelters along the way, Ed Garvey and Crampton Gap, and then entered Gathland State Park (nice facility).

After getting water and chatting with a few other through-hikers there (none who we knew), we pushed on to Rocky Run Shelter. By this point (early afternoon), it was getting pretty hot, so we dropped our packs and Mark went on down to fill up on water again, and enter us in the register. Happy had been there on the 12th, and Fidget on the 15th - no one else we recognized in the register. Several people at the shelter indicated that our intended destination (Dahlgren Backcountry Camping Area) had some sort of mini-Boy Scout Camporee going on, but we decided to risk it. Arriving around 6:00, we did in fact find one Scout group in residence (Troop 439 out of southern New Jersey), but the other (larger) group was a YMCA youth group. There were eventually a dozen other section and through-hikers camping there. For the day, 17 miles done. The site itself was very nice - a wide lawn, with picnic tables situated on gravel pads, and a full-service bathhouse. And a small rabbit. Despite the name, not exactly a primitive site! There was still plenty of space, so we went ahead and set up, then ate dinner, then went and chatted with the Scout leaders from Troop 439 (they were impressed with our encyclopedic knowledge of Philmont, which they had attended 3 times over the past 15 years). Mark also chatted with several of the other hikers in residence, while I made the diary entry for the day. By this point we had some thin clouds overhead, but it was still very pleasant. Bed by 9:00. A good day, and a good start to the second half of the trek.

Day 77 - Off the Trail for a Few Days ...

2009-06-20T10:51:00.006-04:00

Friday, June 19th - Up at 6:30, after watching a re-run of the Nationals win over the Yankees (3 - 0!) 'til after midnight. Took another shower, then went out and checked various email accounts on the hotel courtesy computer. Returning to the room around 7:30 or so, Mark got up and we hit the Continental Breakfast - decent, nothing special. Fortunately for them, we had stuffed ourselves at the Chinese buffet last night, so we behaved ourselves.

Went back to the room and started packing (holding our noses). Got a call from Pete at 8:30 - he was already in the parking lot, and had been there for about 15 minutes. So we hustled our gear outside and loaded up, with greetings all around. Since the ATC Center didn't open til 9:00, and Pete hadn't eaten yet, we started heading to Charles Town to grab breakfast - but eventually turned back around and returned to the Center. In fact it was already open (8:50), and so we spent about half an hour there, signing in, getting our "official" through-hiker photos for their 2009 album, and buying the maps for the rest of the trip (I suppose this means we're committed now!) Eventually Pete headed up to a local 7-11 (with another through-hiker - Spoonman) for some something to eat - he bought the through-hiker his breakfast too (instant trail magic!)

Once he returned, we loaded up and headed to Mark's house (in Chantilly), then to my house. I talked with Rick K. (from my agency) on the way - apparently my position had opened up yesterday, so I can now re-apply for my job (which I'll probably do, though apparently there are some 15's in other agencies that are intriguing). Traffic on both 28 and I-66 was heavy and slow, even though it was going on 10:30 by this point - some things I sure don't miss. Pete and I enjoyed a nice chat (He was nearly catatonic, but we did have a nice chat!) on the way to my house, and we arrived just before 11:00. After dumping my stuff, Pete headed off for work at Ireton, and I started in on a "serious" cleanup. Lots to do over the next 4 days. We're back at it again on Tuesday morning. [This blog will not cover the next 3 1/2 days spent at my house.] See ya!

(Ed. - Our intrepid friend has completed 1013 miles in 76 days - an average of 92.1 miles per week and 13.3 miles per day. That's pretty close to 11 Philmonts back to back! If they maintain this pace, they'll summit Mt. Katahdin, the northern terminus of the A.T., on Rosh Hashanah, September 19th, although I suspect that it will probably be 10 days or so before that given their recent pace. My prediction? 9/9/9!)

Day 76 - By the Rollercoaster & on to Harper's Ferry

2009-06-20T10:35:00.004-04:00

Thursday, June 18th - Up at 5:30. Despite the heavy rains overnight, we woke to partly cloudy skies, and 65 degrees - but extremely humid (soupy is the best way to describe it). Doc McCorkle and Fantasy Feet also got up, soon after Mark and I. Got out at 6:10, and continued the ups and downs of the Rollercoaster, again on sloppy and slippery trail. Breakfast after an hour, on some convenient "sitting" rocks.

The trail stayed rocky til we passed Bear's Den and Rt. 7, then became a bit more reasonable (we decided not to visit Bear's Den Hostel). The gaps were again flowing hard with water. This was very familiar territory for both Mark and I, from various Philmont and other Scouting outings through the years. The temperature rose a bit, but it was still very humid. Around 11:00 we started getting distant booms of thunder, and within 30 minutes we were in yet another torrential downpour. Mark and I both elected to walk through it without rain gear, thereby getting a free (and badly needed) shower; however, the rain also finished the job of completely soaking our boots and socks - so we ended up hiking soaking wet the rest of the way.

Because the creeks were running pretty brownish after all the rain, we held out on water, finally filling up at the Blackburn Trail Center (potable water; Mark went down and filled our canteens). The trail improved dramatically after the Blackburn Center. We pushed on to the David Lesser Shelter (another nice one), where I went down to sign the register. Fantasy Feet was already there (having passed us about 2 hours beforehand). The Register indicated that Happy had been there on the 9th, and Rusty on the 15th; I didn't know anyone else in the listings. After a short break for snacks, we pushed on for the last 8 miles, passing Rt. 9 on the way. The sun came out, and the air was distinctly drier.

We continued on to the Loudoun Heights area, then headed down the switchbacks towards Harper's Ferry. Much to our surprise, about halfway down we met John Kaluta and his friend Melissa, waiting for us to arrive. After greetings, we declined their offer for a ride to the Comfort Inn, and so they took off for the parking lot near the 340 bridge while we walked in (23 miles total for the day, nearly 70 miles over the past 3 days). We crossed the bridge (noisy and busy), threw our packs in the back of John's car, and he drove us the final hundred yards from the A.T. to the hotel. We shared a couple of beers and then checked in, getting Room 109.

After showers and fresh clothes (and some first aid for our feet), we headed to Charles Town for a Chinese all-you-can-eat buffet there, closing the place down at 9:30 (pretty good food, but not as good as the Ming Dynasty at Waynesboro). Back to the hotel, where John and Melissa soon took off. Called Pete to finalize our pickup tomorrow morning; also called Marco to let him know when I'd be returning. We placed our most malodorous items in plastic bags, so the room wouldn't be too nasty, then watched a little TV (History Channel, then a Nationals/Yankees game re-run), then hit the Internet on the computer in the hotel lobby. Then bed. A good day, but we're both very weary.

Day 75 - Our Longest Day & Into the Rollercoaster

2009-06-20T08:19:00.004-04:00

Wednesday, June 17th - Moderate rain started up around 3:00 am. Up at 5:30; still raining, so we decided to eat breakfast at the shelter as opposed to on the side of the trail in an hour (which is what we normally do). Left around 6:15, in the rain. The weather today was odd in that we had a lot of wind from the east and northeast, which I associate with nor'easters, not with cold fronts approaching from the west (which is what we had expected from the Weather Channel forecast). Regardless, it blew pretty hard, basically all day long, making the more exposed sections of the hike pretty chilly.

The trails were a mixed bag today, reasonable to start but difficult (later) as we headed into the Rollercoaster. We passed several shelters along the route today - Manassas Gap, Dick's Dome, and Rod Hollow. At 4:00, rather than sit at Rod Hollow (20 miles in), we decided to push on another 7 miles to the next shelter. The rain kept up nearly all day, with a few peaks of sun mid-day and then late afternoon. We saw only one other hiker all day, a southbound day-hiker. So not the best hiking day; the trails were pretty much a slick mud-pit (always a joy), and each gap had a pretty good flow of water pouring through it. We passed Rt. 55, then I-66, then Rt. 50, then Sky Meadows State Park, all familiar territory for both Mark and I. Eventually we passed a sign for the Rollercoaster (basically an "Abandon Hope All Ye Who Enter" sort of thing), and pounded up and down the first five peaks (lot of rocky trail), arriving at the Sam Moore Shelter at 7:30. Drizzle was still falling as we arrived, and we were both pretty much a wet mess. "Doc" McCorkle was there; that was it (he was, however, happy to see us, and was also astonished at our mileage (27 miles for the day)). A bit later "Fantasy Feet" arrived, and that was it for the night.

The rain picked up steadily after we arrived, and so it was pretty noisy (but dry) under the tin roof of the shelter. Later overnight we had a major thunderstorm roll through, and still later a second very heavy batch of rain (but no thunder and lightning for this second batch), both with torrential downpours and lots of wind. So it was not the most "restful" night. We're both whipped, but also elated at having done 27 miles through some tough terrain and tough conditions - good to know we can handle high mileage days when we put ourselves to the test. And we're now within striking distance of Harper's Ferry!

Day 74 - We Depart the Shenandoahs

2009-06-20T07:49:00.004-04:00

Tuesday, June 16th - Up at 6:30, and (once Bill fired up his laptop) I checked email for a little while. Accepted invitations from Pauline and Ted for various picnic-parties going on this Saturday night (I'll try to hit both if I'm still conscious). Reasonable looking day outside to start, nearly 70 degrees to start - it will be cooler on the mountaintops, though). Mark got up around 7:30, and also checked his email. Bill prepared us an excellent (and large) breakfast (he's a pretty good cook!)

We loaded up just after 8:00, and headed back up to Gravel Spring parking lot, arriving about 9:05 or so. It was a very misty/foggy drive on the way up, and only 61 degrees when we arrived. There were two females in the lot when we showed up; they were awaiting a shuttle ride, and thought we were it - apparently, the guy was supposed to have been there at 8:30, so they were getting a little antsy. Even my phone had zero bars, so we couldn't help them, but Bill was willing to give them a ride if they were giving up on the guy (I don't know how that played out). We saddled up and - after a few photos and a lot of thank-you's - we headed back up the trail.

We had a couple of stiff climbs to start, over South and then North Marshall peaks, then over Compton Peak, kicking out a few deer on the way. The weather cleared up pretty well, to mostly sunny skies. But it was pretty humid yet. At Compton Gap, we separated for the last time from the Skyline Drive, and headed towards the north end of the park (about 2 miles north). We knew we had reached the park boundary when we passed another self-serve entrance station. The trails then became a mixed bag of "good" and rocky. We stopped at the badly named Tom Floyd "Wayside" - which in fact is just another shelter, not a real wayside such as those in the Shenandoah National Park - signed in, and moved on.

Approaching Rt. 522, we passed the National Zoo's Conservation & Research Center (surrounded by an 8 foot chain-link fence - Ed. The CRC just had the first litter of Clouded Leopard cubs born in captivity in 16 years); we did not see any animals, exotic or otherwise. In addition, although we passed several trails along the way, there was no sign for the Front Royal 4-H Center (home of the Hike-o-Ree). Crossed Rt. 522, came up a long incline and then a long flat, passing the Mosby Primitive Campsite (we didn't stop). Finally arrived at the Jim n Molly Denton Shelter (near 6:00) - a very impressive place, with a separate (covered) eating area, privvy, bear pole, campsites, spring, etc. Probably the most impressive "total" shelter we have seen to date, even though the shelter itself was only medium sized. No one there. We checked the weather band radio, and heard that heavy rain showers were expected after midnight, so we elected to stay in the shelter (also, the bug problem here was minimal compared to some shelters we had stayed at the past week or so). "Lone Wolf" (another through-hiker who we hadn't seen before) showed up a while later, then two southbound section hikers came in around 8:30; that was it for the night. So, between 18 and 19 miles done today - not bad since we hadn't started til 9:15. However, tomorrow sounds like it will be a slog.

Day 73 - A "Nero" into New Market

2009-06-16T07:33:00.003-04:00

Monday, June 15th - Up at 5:45, to a thin overcast and 57 degrees. Our tents dried overnight, and so were noticeably lighter. Gone by 6:15, continuing up a long but gradual slope. Again kicked out a few deer along the way, including one that allowed us to walk right up to it before moving just barely to one side. Made it to the Elkwallow Wayside at 8:25, where the manager was kind enough to open his restrooms for us, even though they didn't open til 9:00; we also got water there, and ate some of our snacks.

Moving on, we climbed Hogback Mountain, another long climb. Called Bill Rogers from the top (barely one bar even there), and he agreed to meet us at noon at Gravel Spring Gap Parking Lot. He was at a storage lot with the police, as someone had broken into his trailer (and several others also located there) the previous night, and stolen a number of valuable items, including his TV and stereo system. As you might expect, he was pretty aggravated, but insisted that he was OK with our plan to meet. We continued down the trail, stopping at Gravel Spring Hut at 11:15 or so for Mark to sign us in and get some water. Then a brief walk to the parking lot. Bill arrived at 12:05, just as the weather began to look threatening again (but no rain this time). Greetings all around, then we loaded up and headed off to Front Royal for lunch (McD's) and a stop at the Post Office (for Mark to pick up the next bunch of maps that he had mailed to himself). Then down I-81 to Bill's house in New Market (a pretty long drive).

We grabbed some showers, and also did our laundry. Bill and Mark watched a movie (Midway) while I made some phone calls and later typed up some blog reports. Around 6:00 we spent a few minutes drafting up our food lists, and then headed off to the Johnny Appleseed restaurant for dinner (a locally famous restaurant; excellent food and service). We spent a very enjoyable hour there, chatting with Bill about the trail. I grabbed my food supplies at a nearby Mini-Mart, then we headed up the road for Mark to get his food at a Food Lion. We headed back to the storage lot (site of the break-in), where Bill installed a couple of new locks on his trailers, and showed us the damage (sad). Back at the house, we sorted food and laundry, and I continued typing blog reports til 10:45 or so, while Bill and Mark watched TV. A good day - only 11 miles done, but a nice break. Back at it tomorrow.

Day 72 - Lots of Wildlife, & a Good Deed Done

2009-06-16T07:26:00.002-04:00

Sunday, June 14th - Up at 5:30, to clear skies and considerably cooler, 46 degrees, with a steady breeze blowing. It seemed that a cold front must have come through overnight, as the air was noticeably drier. Despite the wind and lower humidity, our tents remained wet overnight, and so it was (as expected) a wet packup and heavier than usual packs.

Left at 6:10, accessing the A.T. about a hundred feet from our site. Just as we reached the trail we kicked up a skunk - an unusual skunk in that it was nearly all black with just a tuft of white on it (I've never seen one like that before). It hustled away without giving us a spraydown, for which we were certainly thankful. Reaching Rock Spring Hut, Mark dropped his pack and hustled down to sign us in (Bon-Bon was there, but she was the only one of about 8 people there that he recognized). We kicked up a lot of deer along the trail today - at least 15, including a nice 6 point buck still in velvet (near Pass Mountain), and also a doe with a small fawn near Big Meadows. In general, all the deer in the Park are nearly heedless of humans, and barely will get out of your way as you walk up on them. Later we also kicked out a small bear cub, maybe 25 pounds, but fortunately it moved away quickly and mama (wherever she was) didn't make an appearance.

Then we came across Doc McCorkle (sp?), a fellow through-hiker, who was searching for his glasses (he had knocked them off his head while hurriedly setting up his tent just before the rain the previous night). He had been searching for them for hours, and asked if we would help him look. Of course we agreed, and as luck had it I found them about 2 minutes later. One lense had popped out, but Mark repaired that with an eyeglass kit we had in our first aid supplies. "Doc" was extremely grateful. I told him to be sure to keep his second pair with him from now on, and he agreed.

By mid-day it had turned into a beautiful day, with clear blue skies and low humidity, one of the better days on the trek. We eventually reached Skyland, and we hit the Lodge for some OJ Mark) and a Coke (me), while Bob-Bon (who had passed us a few minutes before) had a blackberry ice cream pie. We all chatted for about half an hour before pushing on. We ate lunch at the Pinnacles, under the pavillion there. At least 20 other people were there, even though it was now past noon on Sunday (obviously the nice weather was causing people to delay their returns home). Then on to Mary's Rock, passing by numerous overlooks of the valley and the Massanutten range along the way. Since we had both been to Mary's Rock numerous times, we decided to pass on it (it's off a side trail), and headed down to Thornton Gap. The trail down to the gap is considered to be the worst in the Park, and it lived up to its reputation, rocky and nasty. So we were pretty beat up by the time we made it down. The Panorama Restaurant is no more, having been completely eradicated, but the Park Service had erected a nice bathroom in its place, which was also a good water source.

We passed over Rt. 211, and continued on to Pass Mountain, on MUCH nicer trail. We reached the hut around 5:00, and decided to continue on (Mark again went down to get water and sign us in). So we kept hiking 'til about 6:45, finding a reasonable but not a great site about 25 yards off the trail. It was also noticeably slanted, but we've slept on worse, many times. Our tents were still wet from last night, but we were able to mop the floors dry enough to avoid any problems. Biggest issue with the site (in fact all day) were the large number of little black flies and gnats, which made our lives miserable every time we stopped (and guaranteed we would not stay in a shelter). Mark actually ate wearing his rain gear; I just killed a hundred of the things and called it even. Anyway, it was again a quick dinner and into the tents by 8:00. So about 21 miles in, another good day.

Day 71 - Swift Run Gap to Big Meadows

2009-06-16T07:20:00.002-04:00

Saturday, June 13th - Up at 5:15, with the intention of typing blog reports - unfortunately both my troop111.org and my mailsnare accounts refused to allow me access. Eventually I sent one report to Pete via Kim's email system, but that was it. Jim got up around 7:00 to make us breakfast (omelets, sausages, and biscuits, quite a meal), and Mark came in around 7:30 or so. We were pretty stuffed by the time we finished. It was a misty, sultry day outside, with the mountains barely visible. Once we were done eating, we quickly packed up, and Jim and Kim took us back up to Swift Run Gap, arriving about 9:25. Did our final goodbyes and thank yous, and got going immediately.

Right after we started, we began seeing signs for a Trail Magic at a Ranger Station, but being that we had just eaten a huge meal we passed on by. Pretty decent trail today, and extensive signs of trail maintenance along the way, including a couple of guys who were weed-whacking the brush. But also some significant climbs, and we were soon dripping wet again with the heat and humidity. Came into Lewis Mountain Camp, and we stopped briefly so Mark could snag a Pepsi at the camp store (I stuck with water). Just as we were leaving, Bob-Bon came by and also decided to hit the various facilities. We continued on to Bear Fence Hut, where Mark went in to check the Register and sign us in as passing by. He noted that Salty had written an acknowledgment that Thunderpants and Sis had left the trail, so I guess they must have called him. He confirmed that he was heading on alone; unfortunately, with our upcoming 3-day break coming up, we're quite unlikely to see him again (which is, of course, the way of things out here). Too bad; he's a good guy to hike with.

Continuing on, we were both struck by the groups of people on the trail and especially the number of vehicles on the Skyline Drive (including a large number of motorcycles). I guess I wasn't expecting this many people in the Park before the Virginia schools let out. Quite a difference from mid-week. We talked with several of the groups, and were suitably gratified by the oohs and aahs from everyone who were impressed that - yes - we had walked here from Georgia. The last 5 miles to Big Meadows seemed to pass by slowly - it was a long uphill for basically the entire day, and we were feeling it by this point. Arriving at the camp (5:45), we were unhappy to find various "Area Closed" signs on the trail, due to the local peregrine falcon nesting sites. That was fine, but there were no instructions for through-hikers, and so we ended up having to bushwhack into the camp - ridiculous!

Eventually we made our way to the Camp Office, where we were fortunate to get the last campsite left in the camp, E181, all the way on the east edge of the campground. Lucky for us, though we could have pushed on to the next shelter (about 3 more miles) had the campground been sold out. But another 5 - 10 minutes and we'd have had no choice. We set up quickly, chatted up a few of the neighbors a bit (they were also impressed that we were through hiking), and ate dinner. Then we started hearing distant thunder and the horizon turned dark rather quickly (7:00), so the long threatened thunderstorm had arrived. And moving fast too - we barely had time to get our stuff and ourselves under cover before heavy rain began falling. I took the opportunity to do a bandanna cleanup at the bath-house. Fortunately the heavy rain lasted less than half an hour, but more than enough to ensure a wet packup and heavier packs tomorrow. It did seem much cooler afterwards, so we stayed in our tents for the night (around 8:00 pm). Both our tents stayed dry throughout the downpour, so we're pretty happy with them. Unfortunately our nearest neighbors (the ones we had not talked to) decided to hold a singalong 'til just after midnight, plenty loud enough to keep both of us awake. They finally quit just as I was getting dressed to go do an aggravation dump. A good day otherwise, about 17 1/2 miles.

Day 70 - On to Swift Run Gap & Favorite Stump Farm to visit the Smiths

2009-06-16T07:11:00.003-04:00

Friday, June 12th - Up at 5:30, 57 degrees, some high clouds and a breeze. Everything wet from last night's rain, so packup was a bit slower. Gone at 6:10, dropping off Mark's trash and our campsite tag on the way. Filled our water bottles at the camp store, and then back on the trail. Very wet hiking from the waist down, as the trail was very thick for the first 2 miles or so. Also, a few more steeper sections today - but overall we moved pretty fast again.

Breakfast at a nice rock cropping; good view. Picked up water at Pinefield Hut (Mark signed us in there, and noted a message from Salty: "Thunderpants and Sis, where are you?") It was getting hotter and more sultry as the day wore on, so we poured the water in pretty steadily. Lunch was in the parking lot at Powell Gap, under a few light sprinkles. Then a long climb up to High Top, stopping for a break at the hut there. There were also two nice overlooks as we approached the crest. Coming down the north slope, we passed a Philmont Crew heading up, a Troop 1 from somewhere in North Carolina; they were pounding right along, so no chance to chat.

Got to Swift Run Gap around 2:50, good time, and walked down to just outside the Entrance Station. Laid out the Spot, then called Jim and Kim both to let them know that we had arrived; only got their answering machines. But then they pulled in 5 minutes later, so perfect timing. After loading up and waiting for the Spot to finish, we headed down to their farm in Brightwood, passing through some very heavy rains on the way (so *really* good timing!) At the house, their dogs were very interested indeed in these two smelly characters from the woods! I'm surprised they didn't pass out after smelling my boots for 5 minutes.

After showering, we chatted til dinner (locally grown steaks), plus I made phone calls to Bill Rogers (not Morris - Rogers), and we arranged a visit with him in New Market this Monday afternoon and overnight. Also talked to Phil at Casual Adventure about my new boots - he says he'll be heading southbound from Katahdin on July 1st. After dinner Jim took us over to a local Food Lion and Dollar General, where we resupplied through Monday lunch. Then back to the house, where we all chatted til about 10:00, out on the deck. Mark crashed at this point, but I went ahead and put in a blog report for last Tuesday before heading up to bed. A good day - 18 miles and the southern section of the Shenandoahs done, and an enjoyable visit with old friends. Back at it tomorrow.

Day 69 - Our First Bears, and on to Loft Mountain

2009-06-16T07:04:00.002-04:00

Thursday, June 11th - Up at 5:30, somewhat overcast, 58 degrees, rather sultry already. We're happy to have escaped last night's heavy thunderstorm. Unfortunately, I did not escape the 3:00 am alarms set by two of the shelter residents, both of whom failed to wake up of course, so only the rest of us suffered on that one (thanks, guys!) On our way by 6:00.

Today marked our first sightings of bears, both moderate sized, maybe 75 pounds. The first was off to our left, and seemed far more curious than alarmed by our presence, approaching slowly until he was about 25 feet away - at which point we moved on! The second was up a tree, but did a fireman's exit and skeedaddle as we approached. So Mark owes me a steak at Ruth Chris', since he bet me we'd see no bears on this trek (and he was right, til today). Easy trail today, probably our easiest to date on the trek, and we now understand better why people like the Shenandoahs so much. But it was hot and humid, and we were both sweating rivers as we went along.

Stopped at Black Rock Hut (Mark headed down to get water and sign us in on the register). Water was a bit of an issue today, and we probably ended up drinking 2 gallons each. Mark discovered one very unexpected thing at the hut; that being that Thunderpants and Sis had quit the trail three days before ("It's been fun but we've had enough"). I was surprised how much this depressed me; they seemed like they would be going all the way. Even though they were just acquaintances, they were genuine trail-friends, and you hate to lose your friends. Something I suspect we'll be seeing more of as the weeks wear on. No comments from Salty (who had been co-hiking with Thunderpants and Sis), but we saw that Yoon had returned after what appeared to be about 5 days off the trail.

We arrived at Loft Mountain (one of the SNP camps) around 3:45 or so. We decided to walk all the way around the camp on the A.T. in order to save a half an hour's hiking tomorrow (when we're trying to meet up with Jim and Kim Smith). The trail around the camp was very thick, and obviously had had no trail maintenance in some time (and I wondered if most through hikers were just cutting across the camp to save themselves about 3/4's of a mile of hiking). We ended up coming out at the campstore, so in all we ended up doing about 20 1/2 miles or so.

After getting some drinks and the lay of the land we headed up to the actual campground (about a quarter mile walk) and self registered for a tent-site. Being it was only Thursday, the camp was mostly unoccupied, so plenty of sites still available (Friday would have been a very different story). Got a nice site (A-1-D), reasonably flat and fairly high - a good thing in view of the forecast, still calling for rain. Once we set up, we grabbed fresh clothes and headed down the road about a mile and a half to the wayside restaurant - we tried to thumb it, but no one would pick us up, so we ended up walking the whole way down. Decent food, but quite expensive (are we surprised?; did we care? - No!) Coming back, we were happily surprised to be picked up by the very first vehicle, driven by several section hikers - saved us a long, steep climb back to the camp. Per our request, they dropped us off at the campstore, where we got a 5 minute shower for a buck. After that we visited the campstore itself, picking up a bit of supplemental food and a couple of beers, then headed back to our site - finding a note from the host to come see him. Mark wrote some postcards while I tracked down the host (we needed to put our receipt on the campsite post). After we enjoyed our beverages, we got ready for rain, as an approaching storm was "announcing" itself with dark blue skies and distant booms of thunder. But we were grateful that the rain had held off til 8:00 pm. The rain arrived around 8:30, and after an initially heavy flurry it moderated to light drizzle by about 10:30 or so. It will be a wet packup, but all in all a very good day.

A Note from Jim & Kim Smith

2009-06-13T08:47:00.003-04:00

Friday, June 12th, 4:29pm - "I returned from Homer, Alaska at about noon and Kim and I picked Bob and Mark up at 33 and the BRP. Loaded them in the car minutes before the bottom fell out of the sky. They are both here at the Favorite Stump Farm. Mark is clean and Bob is getting that way. Plan to load them with grass fed protein and carbs tonight while the washer and dryer are doing their thing. Do a little grocery shopping and in the a.m., load them with duck eggs, Tennessee sausage and some carbs and get them back to the trail. (I shall return to try to get on top of 3 weeks of neglect at the farm). "

James H. Smith
Favorite Stump Farm

Day 68 - On to the Shenandoahs

2009-06-13T08:42:00.001-04:00

Wednesday, June 10th - Got up at 6:30, giving me extra rime to get packed up. Got Mark up at 7:00, and we finished packing. Grabbed the Continental Breakfast again - a little thin, but more than we'd have gotten out on the trail, right? Moved our gear out of the room and down to the entrance area, where Dave Berry picked us up around 8:00. Quick drive back up the hill to the Dripping Rock parking area, arriving at 8:25, and Dave was quickly on his way. About two minutes later Solar System and Naneek pulled in, in a van driven by "Rusty," another A.T. legendary character. Solar System and Naneek were hiking into Waynesboro today. We were all on our way around 8:45. Semi-overcast today, and sultry even to start, so it's gonna be a sweaty one.

Climbing up our first slope (Humpback Mountain), we had a nice view over our shoulders of the Wintergreen Resort - kind of a castle on the hill appearance. Lots of water today, and a good thing too, because we ended up drinking over 2 gallons each through the course of the day. We encountered a rather aggressive black snake on the trail today, about 5 feet long, that required some "persuading" to move on. Lunch at the Jones Mill Shelter; nice spot. Mixed bag on the hiking today - started out with nice trails, especially from the shelter to Rockfish Gap. We reached the gap (the southern point of the Shehandoahs) around 3:30 or so, stopping at a self-serve registration point about a mile in. Surprisingly the trail became much more rugged once we reached the Park, so a pretty tough end to the day's hiking. Kicked out our first SNP deer along the way, the first of many to come I'm sure. Climbed two more peaks - the first was Bear Mountain, which was unusual because it had about half a dozen, very large microwave relay towers on top, very incongruous in this setting. Then over Calf Mountain, and on to the Calf Mountain Shelter, with the skies looking increasing thunderstormish (but nothing yet). The huts in the SNP have bear poles, which are a lot more convenient.

About a dozen people were at the shelter, the largest crowd we have seen in some time - but most were section hikers. One had graduated from Georgetown in 1967, so we enjoyed chatting for a bit. Surprisingly, most of the people there opted to tent, even though the bug problem here was minimal. We stayed in the shelter because of the threat of rain. In fact a heavy thunderstorm passed by us between 8:30 and 9:00, but we got nary a drop. All told we did between 21 and 22 miles; good day.

Day 67 - A Zero Day in Waynesboro

2009-06-13T08:40:00.001-04:00

Tuesday, June 9th - Up at 6:00, but not by choice - we had a pretty good thunderstorm rolling outside, plus the local construction workers in the next room were firing up some loud music outside just to add to the excitement. Finally gave up and got up around 7:00, and eventually headed down to the Continental Breakfast - not fabulous but decent enough. So Mark and I decided to go ahead and eat that as opposed to heading off into town (in the rain) in search of a restaurant. CNN and a USA Today kept us semi-intrigued. The rain eased off about 8:15 or so.

After re-sorting our gear (and separating our laundry out), I headed off to the library (about a half a mile walk) around 8:40 to check email while Mark continued reading the paper. The library has a one hour limit on use, but leaves you logged on as long as no-one else is
waiting (pretty good computer program keeping track of everything going on with 12 computers). Mark showed up around 11:00, having finished the laundry and then the Post Office (for our next set of maps). Around noon we headed off to a Chinese buffet restaurant; excellent. After we discussed the upcoming week (heading into and through the Shenandoahs), I headed back to the library for more typing, while Mark headed back to the room for an extended nap.
Around 4:30 or so we had a major (and quite violent) thunderstorm move into the area, with large hail, making me thankful once again to be here and not out on the trail! I continued typing up reports til 5:00, then saved today's (6/9) - lucky for me, because we had a power failure about 3 minutes later (shades of Bland). It eased up around 5:15. Called Mark at the hotel, and decided to go ahead and chance walking back; fortunately it stayed dry.

Once I got back (Mark was asleep), I went ahead and made a bunch of phone call (Pete Davey, parents, Nat and Bill, Casual Adventure, Rick Wolff, Dave Berry, others). Mark eventually came outside during the various calls (about 7:00 pm), and we decided to eat dinner at a local Shoney's. We arranged a ride through the local cab company (long wait), getting there around 8:00. Dave Berry showed up as well, but only for a cup of coffee. After several excellent Shoneys, we found this one to be a bit of a disappointment - but it was (as they say) edible and filling. Dave returned us to the hotel around 9:15. I called Jim Smith - he was in Homer, Alaska - and we arranged a visit on Friday night. Also called Kim Smith and left a message. Mark chatted with his mom for awhile, and also received a return call from Kim. Once he was finished, I called Kim back and confirmed our visit. With our visit to the Smiths, and later with Bill Rogers, we're expecting to get through the Shenandoahs in 6 days. Outside, we still had a pretty good lightning show going on, but it's all east, so it looks like it will be a dry night.

Day 66 - Over the Three Ridges, & an (Unexpected) Trip into Waynesboro

2009-06-09T16:35:00.003-04:00

Monday, June 8th - Up at 5:30, clear and chilly - 58 degrees but a pretty stiff breeze blowing on the top of the mountain where we were camping. On the trail at 6:10, quickly reaching the rather anticlimatic summit of the Priest. The trail down from the Priest was brutal and rocky - including breakfast, it took 3 hours to get down to the valley floor. Even by 9:00 am, it was already hot and sticky, so it promised to be a day of sweat. We filled up our water twice on the way down, a good indication of just how sultry it was already.

The trip across the valley was quite brief, and then we were right back into it again, climbing "the Three Ridges," a rather infamously difficult hike. The first ridge was actually the most difficult, about 2,500 feet up, and we were both drenched from the tips of our hairs to the tips of our toes within 30 minutes. There were some nice overlooks on the way, and the temperatures eased as we gained elevation, but there's no way to sugarcoat it - it was brutal. All told (including lunch), it took about 4 hours to make the summit of the third ridge - and although the second and third ridges were not as bad as feared, it still was a tough pull. Trail Magic - some additional flowering mountain laurels and rhododendrons, plus we saw a sizable box turtle right in the trail. We also saw a small marmot-looking animal tearing off into the ferns, making an odd chirping noise (no idea what this was). We eventually came to the Maupin Field Shelter where we watered up; no one there. We took a (needed) break, then kept going to another good water source at Dripping Rock (where we also hoped to camp for the night, since the next shelter was well beyond our reach, about 15 miles).

The trails varied from good to rocky, but we pounded along regardless. Unfortunately we found a sign just before Dripping Rock that indicated "No Camping" - plus there was distant thunder in the area. We thought briefly about wildcatting it, as others had obviously done, but the thunderstorms in the area kind of put the kabosh on that idea (camping on an exposed ridge in a thunderstorm is obviously not a good idea). We ate an abbreviated dinner while considering our options. The map and trail guide offered no helpful info on upcoming sites, so we decided instead to get to Waynesboro a day early. I got ahold of a shuttle driver, Dave Berry, who agreed to come get us (for free!), and we pushed on to the Dripping Rock Parking Lot, arriving around 7:30 or so. So, 20 miles done; not bad considering the Three Ridges climb.

The first thunderstorm missed us, but there were additional storms in the area. Dave picked us up in a Lexus SUV (too high class for us!) at 7:45. It took about a half an hour to get to Waynesboro, and we enjoyed talking to Dave (a former outfitter) along the way - we shared many common experiences with him, and he had been a Scout himself and had worked with Scout groups on numerous occasions. Per his advice, we stayed at the Quality Inn - a bit pricey but in the middle of town and the various services we needed. Once we checked in, I grabbed a shower while Mark went and got a pizza from across the street. The Weather Channel showed that we had been "just" missed by a major storm (which was heading towards Washington and Richmond), but also that there were additional storms on the way. Looks like the front that was supposed to arrive on Tuesday got in a day early. Certainly the heat and humidity all day long were contributing factors. So, 62 miles over 3 days, not bad. Tuesday will be a "zero" day for us, again a needed one.

Day 65 - We Reach "The Priest"

2009-06-09T16:07:00.002-04:00

Sunday, June 7th - Up at 5:30, our earliest in awhile. Thin overcast, and pretty chilly to start, 52 degrees, and my breath was actually fogging a little bit, which was a bit odd. Got out around 6:00; easy climb up to the Long Mountain Wayside on Rt. 60, where we ate breakfast at a picnic table. While there, Stooge showed up and started setting up another break point for Nanny Goat and Mofo, and whoever else came along (we chatted with him for awhile, but didn't snag anything from him at this point). He is leapfrogging roads, staying ahead of Nanny Goat (his wife), so indicated we'd probably see him again once or twice more that day.

We headed out after about 30 minutes, getting right into a 2,000 foot climb up Bald Knob; some nice overlooks but nothing special after all we've seen over the past 2 1/2 months (I guess we're getting jaded!) The trail itself was considerably more rough and rocky than what we've enjoyed the past couple of days, so tougher going. Continued on to Cold Mountain (not "the" Cold Mountain of literary movie fame, which is in North Carolina, but another of the same name). Lots of small yellow flowers on the balds on these two mountains (grabbed some photos). Another warm day in the sun, but with a cooling breeze. Pushed on to Hog Camp Gap, where we again ran into Stooge. There were a bunch of other folks there as well, mostly starting (or maybe finishing) various day hikes; also, a number of folks were riding trail bikes up and down the various Forest Service roads. Just past the gap-road, I headed down a long side-trail to get water at a spring, kicking out a nice buck (in velvet) along the way. Mark chatted with a fellow hiker (a section hiker) 'til I returned, then he went and snagged a couple of sodas from Stooge (I declined, and just stuck with water).

Continuing on, we again hiked through long stretches of fern-fields, covering many acres; again not a common sight in my experience. Later we again ran into a stretch of unusually large, flowering rhododendrons, actual trees, some 25 feet high or more. We kicked out another deer along this stretch. Stopped for lunch at Salt Log Gap, watered up at Seeley-Woodworth Shelter, then continued on towards "The Priest," a large and fairly well-known major mountain in this area. The trails improved significantly for the second half of the day. We were leapfrogging with Bon-Bon for much of the afternoon, and at one point she captured a fledgling Downy Woodpecker, and so we got a close-up view of it. Bon-Bon has a degree in Ecology, and is a self-professed "bird-nerd," so part of the A.T. experience for her was viewing rare birds. Soon thereafter she noted the distinct call of a Cerulean Warbler, apparently a rare bird that can only be viewed in this area. I wish I had her knowledge of all these bird calls; she's pretty amazing with them.

Eventually we headed up a rather nasty and rocky jeep trail towards the Priest and Spy Rock the latter is a distinct rock outcropping, about 40 feet high. We took about 10 minutes to climb it, enjoying the views from the top for another 10 minutes (as usual, it was a lot easier going up than coming down!) Once again, our fellow hikers bypassed this opportunity, and Mark and I both noted that a lot of people are "missing the trail" in the quest for more and more miles. Finally reached the Priest Shelter around 7:35 - only to find it once again infested with these small biting flies. So after a "quick" dinner, we went back up the trail about 150 yards and tent-camped on a flat that we had spotted on the way to the shelter (much more pleasant). It would seem that our sheltering days are just about over, unless we're willing to wear bug-suits for protection, or don't mind being eaten alive. Bon-Bon and another couple of campers also decided to pass on the shelter, and set up their tents (but near the shelter, not near Mark and I). It was just about dark by the time we finished setting up. All told, 22 miles today, a mixed bag of decent and rough trail. We're both pretty beat, but pleased to have made our goal for the day, especially since tomorrow is supposed to be pretty tough.

Day 64 - Nearly 20 Miles on some Great Trails!

2009-06-09T15:03:00.008-04:00

Saturday, June 6th - D-Day, 65th Anniversary - Up at 6:30 or so to finish up my packup; Mark up at 7:00. Decent looking day to start, clear and about 60 degrees. Headed over to the hotel office to check out their continental breakfast - it was "that's it?," so we headed back over to the Burger King for some of their croissandwiches. But we did stop in at the office on the way back for their "dessert" breakfast items, so it wasn't a total waste.

Moved our stuff outside, and found Solar System and Naneek doing likewise; apparently they had arranged a co-ride with Legs (so Legs was doing pretty good on this trip, $40 for 4 of us). He showed up at 8:25; Mark and I got the front seat, while Solar System and Naneek took the bed of the pickup - exposed, but a lot drier and more pleasant than our trip into Glasgow yesterday! Took off a minute later, but then Solar System knocked on the back window and said she had forgotten her hiking stick back at the hotel, so we had to go back to retrieve it (which we did).

On the trip out of town, we noted that all the flags were at half-staff, certainly in honor of D-Day. Back to the James River footbridge, arriving around 9:05. Hatchet was there, with Chachee's car (quite a beat-up wreck); I guess they are somehow leapfrogging the car up the trail so it will be available to them when they reach certain stop-points, thus saving them shuttle fees. I guess whoever is driving it must be reverse hiking and handing the keys off as they pass the main group coming north. An interesting variation, certainly saving them a lot of money over the course of the trip (and surely no one would be stealing this particular car, that's for sure; it looked barely drivable).

On the trail again around 9:20, starting with about a 2,000 foot climb up Rocky Mountain. Near the top, we enjoyed two magnificent overlooks of the James River valley - I got some pictures, which (again) probably don't do it justice. We continued up another 500 feet to the top of Bluff Mountain, where we passed a memorial to Ottie Cline Powell , a near 5 year old boy who "wandered away from his schoolyard" in 1891, and whose remains were found at that spot four months later ["Murder Most Foul," say I - no 5 year old "wandered" 7 miles up a brutal 4,000 foot mountain in the dead of winter!] I spent a few minutes and said some prayers for the soul of this poor, murdered kid. A few feet further on was a bald with a wonderful overlook both northwest and southeast. We moved on to Punchbowl Shelter at 3:15 - allegedly haunted by the soul of Ottie. Well, I can't speak of the accuracy of that, but there was a small pond nearby that was well haunted by hundreds of croaking frogs, so no place for Bob to try and spend a night (they were already noisy in the middle of the day!)

We collected water from the feeder creek leading to the pond, ate some of our mid-day snacks, and decided to push on as far as we cared to or til our legs said "enough already." Unlike most shelters mid-day, there were 4 other people already at this shelter, including one couple who were staying due to the wife's severe tendenitis in her ankles (doesn't look good for their long-term prospects). Continuing on, we passed one stretch of at least a half a mile with (again) tens of thousands of blooming mountain laurels; just spectacular walking, and a very nice scent too. In general, today's trails were great - gentle grades, switchbacked, etc., and between the trails and the weather this was just about our best day of hiking since we started.

Later we ran into Stooge and Nanny Goat at a road crossing and a bridge across a wide creek - about half a dozen hikers were there, including Mofo, Tahoe, a pair of older teens (one from Illinois, the other from North Carolina), and Bob-Bon. Mark got a soda; I grabbed some cookies and a little Gatorade, which was about all I wanted after snacking at the last shelter. Another unexpected Trail Magic. Crossing the bridge, we continued on towards Brown Mountain Creek Shelter, enjoying a mile long walk along the creek itself, a picturesque setting. After passing Solar System and Naneek (tent-camping along the creek), we reached the shelter itself at around 8:00, finding only Bob-Bon there. She indicated that the biting fly problem here was minimal, so we decided to shelter it for tonight, and so quickly set up and then ate dinner as the light faded away; no one else came to the shelter, but someone (maybe Tahoe) tent-camped across the creek, maybe a hundred feet away. We have a near full moon tonight, and a clear sky, so it will likely be a bright night. So almost 20 miles today, 10 miles further than we had expected - a good day on the trail, one of our best days so far.

Day 63 - A Short and Frustrating Day

2009-06-09T12:20:00.005-04:00

Friday, June 5th - Up at 7:00 am, in moderate rain, after a noisy overnight with at least 2 sessions of extremely heavy rain. As I noted in yesterday's report, we ended up getting 6 inches of rain out of this front, so not just another "average" rainstorm. We delayed long enough to eat breakfast, and headed out just before 8:00, still in moderate rain.

Only 2 miles down to the James River Foot Bridge (which is dedicated for use on the A.T.); this is the longest footbridge on the entire A.T., and it's quite a structure.
There's a railroad bridge nearby, so I guess that's what folks had to use before the footbridge was built. Reaching the parking lot on the opposite side (on Rt. 501) at 8:45, we had a guy in a pickup truck pull over and ask if we wanted a ride to Big Island - but we were trying for Glasgow (the other direction), so we turned him down, with thanks. Unfortunately (and quite unexpectedly), we then found that there was absolutely no cell phone coverage in the area, and no one else seemed inclined to pick up wet hikers, so we were stuck in place. Then another pair of hikers came out of the woods heading southbound, and also starting thumbing towards Glasgow, a hundred yards up the road, kind of stealing any chance we had for a ride. I sure wished we had gone to Big Island and made a call from there!

After an hour of this we were both wet and cold, so we started hiking towards Glasgow with the intent of getting warm, and getting to a ridgeline to pick up a cell phone signal. About 45 minutes later the two southbounders came up from behind us, doing the same, and just as they passed us, finally another pickup truck pulled over and offered all of us a ride. So we piled into the back and got into Glasgow about 15 minutes later - only to find that the only hotel, both restaurants, and the primary grocery store, were all closed (due to the economy). After asking around, we found that one gas station/mini-mart/deli was the only game in town, so we went over for lunch (which was surprisingly good) and to try and figure out what to do next. We had two choices - resupply, hit the laundromat, and head back out, or get a ride to Buena Vista (a much larger town), our intended stop the next day. Neither Mark or I had much enthusiasm for heading back out (it was still raining), and so after talking it over we decided to take what was behind Door #2.

After getting our groceries at a Dollar Store, we got a shuttle ride from "Legs," a 1995 Through-Hiker who runs his own hiker shuttle service. On the way we stopped at the Post Office, and ended up staying at the Quality Inn. After a quick shower, I had Legs bring me back to the library, where I did some quick emails and one blog report (the library closed at 5:00, so I only had an hour and a half). The weather finally cleared while I was inside. When I got back to the hotel, Mark had done our laundry, and had also laid out all our other gear in the parking lot. Solar System and Naneek, and also Geeza and TopShelf, had also arrived - as was evident from all their wet stuff hanging outside (they had stopped to camp whereas Mark and I had pushed on to Matt's Creek Shelter). They told us that the rain had actually come up through the bottom of their tents overnight - ouch.

After getting our stuff back inside, we hit the Burger King across the street for dinner. There were decent restaurants in town, but all of them were a pretty good hike from the hotel, so we decided to go for convenience instead of quality. Back at the room, we repacked our gear, sorted all our food, and watched some Weather Channel and other TV. A bit later we watched "Saving Private Ryan," it being the eve of the 65th Anniversary of D-Day. Bed around midnight. So, only 2 miles on the A.T. (plus 2 more miles on Rt. 501), and a lot of running around - a very frustrating day! But at least we're good to get back to it tomorrow....

Day 62 - A Long Day - Near the James River

2009-06-09T11:35:00.002-04:00

Thursday, June 4th - Got up at 5:45, after a terrible night with the biting flies. Whoever picked this spot for a shelter should be forced to live here from May 15th til June 15th every year for all eternity. It rained again overnight, from about 12:30 am til around 4:00 am, heavy at first but eventually fading away to tree-drip. Got out around 6:20, dreary and overcast to start, and stayed that way all day. But (at least) it was dramatically cooler. Passed the first shelter without stopping, and just pressed on.

Had some interesting trail magic today - first, we passed through some pretty impressive "fern-fields," with many thousands of ferns (to the exclusion of virtually any other plant except trees) alongside the trail. In one spot, the ferns were taller than I am, something I don't think I've ever seen before. Second, we also passed through more areas where the rhododendron trees were in full bloom; again, thousands of purple flowers, an amazing sight. And again, other areas where we were walking through tens of thousands of blooming mountain laurels. I'm not sure pictures can do these sights justice, and I hope the readers can appreciate what I'm trying to describe. God's Garden? Finally, coming up over a ridgeline, we had a large doe standing in the trail about 20 feet in front of Mark, wholly uninterested in our presence. Mark finally waved at it at bit, and it wandered off the trail by about 15 - 20 feet, and began grazing (with one eye still on us) as we walked on by. I'm sure we'll see hundreds of deer in the Shenandoahs, but it's still an interesting sight right now.

We came to another shelter (forgot to record the name of it), where Fidget was catching a nap to recover from the night-of-no-sleep at Bryant's Ridge. We also took a break, and chatted with a trail volunteer who was weed-whacking a section of the trail. Among other comments, he warned us that we had very heavy rain expected later this evening and overnight (which we hadn't known, because we couldn't get a signal on the weather band radio down in the hole at Bryant's Ridge). Got out of there soon thereafter (12:50) and pushed on hard. We had a very short but very hard burst of rain right after we left the shelter, but (oddly) that was it for quite awhile.

We had three very tough climbs during the afternoon, the first over Floyd Mountain, then over a ridge, and then another lesser mountain that was more difficult due to our fatigue than the actual elevation. The rain got going around 3:00 pm, then more heavily as we climbed this last hill, but that only spurred us to push harder. We pulled into Matt's Creek Shelter around 7:30, and lucky for us we had pushed - because it was just pouring within 10 minutes of our arrival. Surpisingly no one was there (and no one else showed up for the rest of the night). So, 22 miles today. We are VERY happy to be under cover - as it turned out, we got 6 inches of rain total from mid-day today through mid-day tomorrow(!!!)

Day 61 - The Blue Ridge Parkway & the 750 Mile Mark

2009-06-09T10:48:00.002-04:00

Wednesday, June 3rd - Got up at 5:45, surprisingly still clear, with a light breeze (the forecast had called for an overcast morning and thunderstorms late). Again got going around 6:20, nice trail to start (not as good later on). Reached the Blue Ridge Parkway about an hour after we started out, so another milestone passed. We stayed alongside the parkway on and off for awhile, but eventually took a large swing away after mid-day. Kicked out deer three times during the morning, came across a box turtle just off the trail, plus various skinks or lizards, a very large toad, and finally a rather sizable black snake (I got a picture of him).

Got hot again quickly again (which is why we're starting earlier and earlier, to avoid some of the heat at least to start). We're trying very hard to stay hydrated, but it ain't easy when you're humping heavy packs in hot and humid weather. At Bobbitt's Creek Shelter (off the trail by about a quarter mile or so), Mark watched the packs while I went down to get water for both of us. We drank everything we had left, then filled up both liters because the next shelter (Cove Mountain) was listed as having no water at all; not good when it's so hot out.

Started hearing distant thunder, eventually getting quite noisy - but it blew itself out on the ridgeline to our west. Then a second storm redeveloped to our east, but that one also missed us. We stopped for awhile at Jenning's Creek, about a half a dozen hikers there, where Mark semi-swam for a bit (I just waded for awhile). A nice relief from the heat, albeit temporary. Around 4:00 we pushed on to Bryant's Ridge Shelter, really humping it late as (finally) the weather closed in and a shower began to fall; so much for our swim/wade back at the creek. Made it just before the rain got heavy. The shelter is a really nice one (capacity about 20 people), but its placement is terrible - down at the bottom of this dark, wet ravine. Probably due to the mositure, the biting bugs were myriad here, and the shelter register was filled with complaints about them. And with good reason, as we very soon discovered - it was pretty bad overnight. Fidget, Andrew (and his dad and dog), and a couple who we didn't know, shared the shelter with us. We believe that most everyone else stayed at a commercial campground near Jenning's Creek.

The rain faded around 8:00 or so, but the bugs did not. One good note on a personal front; that being, the pain I have been experiencing in my right shin has finally faded away, about 2 weeks after I first injured myself. I can still feel it when I massage my shin, but I'm no longer getting shooting pains down my leg with every step. Thank You, Lord. 21 miles today, and we just (barely) reached the 750 mile mark. A good day, though not such a good night!

Day 60 - Troutville for Brunch & Resupply, then right back out ...

2009-06-09T10:35:00.002-04:00

Tuesday, June 2nd - Up at 5:45, clear, 58 degrees, light breeze. As noted in yesterday's report, we were camped at the apex of an old power line or telephone line cut, since abandoned. This was roughly halfway between Lambert's Shelter and Troutville, so we had a 4 - 5 mile hike into Troutville. Got going at 6:20, easy trail, but already hot and getting hotter by the minute. Got to Rt. 220 around 8:45 - very busy place! Troutville is at the intersection of 220, I-81, and Rt. 11, and it was hopping so hard it was actually difficult (and dangerous) to cross the various roads. Stopped briefly at a Sunoco/Mini-Mart for some drinks and to check out the possibility for resupply (as previously noted, these little gas station mini-marts are often superior to grocery stores for short-term resupply, because they sell things in individual packets as opposed to 4's, 6's, 8's, etc., and we only needed about 2 1/2 days' worth).

After a bit we headed down about half a mile to the Shoney's for brunch, managing to avoid getting run over in the process. We found Fidget there (about 9:50), but he was already leaving - apparently his 10:30 invite was mis-dated; he had meant the previous day. "Oh well." Anyway, for the first time on this trip I managed to out-eat Mark at an all-you-can-eat buffet (it was more than pretty good). Mark called his mom to reassure her that we had made it and that Mark's new boots were working out for him. We spent an hour there, then headed across the street to the Dollar General, but they didn't have a lot of individually packaged stuff, so we ended up buying about half of what we needed there, then returned back up the street to the Sunoco for the rest. Quite hot by this point, and even more traffic.

Back on the trail at noon, walking through pasture-lands for a bit, with loud traffic noise from I-81 closely nearby (kind of a jarring disconnect and contrast). The open areas were saunas. Eventually we got back to the "actual" woods, and continued on to the Fullquart Knob (sp?) Shelter - no spring there, but rather a cistern system that collected water off the roof and purified it. Well, it was rather brownish, so I collected a liter and purified it twice, but decided to keep it in reserve - hopefully I'll be able to find something more appealling down the trail! Pushed on to the next shelter, passing Salt Pond Road (the 726 mile point, one third of the way to Katahdin!) on the way. Someone had scraped an AT symbol into the gravel there, which was kind of cool looking. Also we ran into Solar System and Naneek there, and Solar System was giving away large chocolate chip cookies that here grandmother had mailed to her (we got 2 each; they were pretty good). An unexpected trail magic (especially for a Tuesday)!

Came across a few creeks soon thereafter, so I used the brownish water from the last shelter to give myself a quick shower (head only), which felt most excellent, and refilled with better looking water. Pushed on to Wilson Creek Shelter; nice spot. The shelter only had two people inside, and maybe 8 more were camped around it, due to the number of biting bugs - a growing problem - we also tented it. Chachee and the Birds came in a bit later. I went down to the creek and gave myself a minor (and private) bath, and also washed my clothes, both issues being badly needed. "Slowly" walked back up the hill to avoid breaking a sweat. In all, probably 15 people were at the shelter by 8:30. Mark went to bed around 7:45, but I stayed up a bit longer to do recording and hang up wet laundry, etc. It was a pleasant night, but unfortunately interrupted regularly by those night birds (whipporwills?) that sing all night long, with a very loud and very distinct call; not good for a light sleeper! But clear, and with a light breeze. Total today, about 16 miles.

Day 59 - Back on the Trail, MacAfee Knob & Tinker Cliffs

2009-06-05T17:17:00.007-04:00

Monday, June 1st - Got up at 6:30, earlier than needed, but wanted to check email one
last time, plus I need to finish packing (Mark had done most of his packing the night before). No emails, which was a bit of a surprise. Weather.com for this area shows a nice stretch, but quite hot. Mark came up around 7:45 and we ate another large breakfast courtesy of Mark's mom. A good meal for the trail. Finished packing and headed back to the 311/Catawba interchange around 8:45, arriving around 9:20 or so. Not surprisingly, many fewer cars in the parking lot this morning - a Monday - than when we first arrived on Saturday. Left at 9:30, with many wishes of "Good Luck" and "Be Careful" from Mark's mom and aunt.

Today's trails and hiking were probably our best of the trek so far - very even trails, and beautiful weather. MacAfee Knob is sort of the Old Rag of this area, and is a very popular climb - so the trails were created with tourists and day-hikers in mind (picture a 4-lane highway). Nice for us too. Quite a contrast to the life-threatening trails leading from the Dragon's Tooth on Saturday! It took us roughly 2 hours to get to the Knob, bypassing two shelters along the way. The actual Knob was everything it was promised, a just spectacular vista of the local mountains and valleys. Not surprisingly, the view from the Knob itself is allegedly the most photographed overlook on the entire Appalachian Trail - and we got several photos, courtesy of a local family who happened to be there when we arrived (I sent Pete one from my phone - see above).

After about a half an hour, we pushed on, stopping for lunch at the Campbell Shelter (and also entering ourselves in the Register there). Then we had a rather frustrating time at Tinker's Cliffs, another landmark spot. Apparently the trail doubles back on itself before going up on the top of the cliffs; well, we (and many dozens of others) missed this - it was VERY poorly marked - and instead we struggled around the bottom of the cliffs on a false but well worn trail. As a guess we were about 20 feet left and 20 feet down from the "actual" A.T., and it was QUITE a struggle. We finally reached the end of the cliffs, and I (finally) insisted that we return to the starting point and figure out what we had done wrong. Then Mark noted a pair of blue blazes on the rocks next to a steep cleft in the cliffs, and 30 feet later - voila! - there was the A.T. again, with a blaze right there in front of us. To put it mildly, we were both furious - especially me. We have had hundreds if not thousands of blazes where none were needed, but here was a critical spot that was reduced to pure luck. [We learned the particulars from other hikers later, only a few of whom lucked into it on arrival.] But I supposed we saw an unusual, and far harder section, of the A.T., than intended.

Continuing on, the trail down was equally gentle, and we stopped at Lambert's Meadow Shelter, where we saw Kan-Do, who we had seen 3 days before. After a brief chat, and some water, we continued on with the intent of tent camping (no shelters for another 10 miles). Around 6:30 or so (5 miles after Lamberts), we came to a cut that appeared to have been a power line cut or old road - nothing there now, but I suggested to Mark that we camp at the apex, about 150 feet up from the A.T., and we did indeed find a small level area at the very top that was just barely large enough for our two tents. So we planted it for the night, 15 miles in. Upon inspection, we found that an old version of the A.T. (long closed off) had once come out right where we were camping. So tomorrow we're heading to the 220 interchange (about 4 miles) for breakfast/lunch at Shoneys, plus food resupply, then back out again.

Day 58 - A Surprise Wet Wakeup & a Day of Rest

2009-06-01T12:01:00.007-04:00

Sunday, May 31st - Woke up at 4:25 am, when Mark asked: "Hey Bob, was that thunder?" A couple of seconds later we got a confirmational boom, and quickly dressed and got outside (in the rain) to bring in all our gear, all wet once again. Fortunately this QUITE unexpected storm passed by about 2 miles to the side, so our stuff was wet but not soaked (for which we were duly appreciative). After that 10 - 15 minutes of excitement, I was unable to sleep until about 6:30, and so finally got up around 8:15 am - one of my latest wakeups of the trek.

Mark's mom fixed us some breakfast while Mark perused the yellow pages for outdoor outfitters in Roanoke and nearby (the most promising were out of business, but there was one in Roanoke that opened at 11:30 am). I spent a few minutes taking all our stuff back out of the basement, laying everything back out in the sun, and then hosed out my pack. I then spent some time on-line, and found that Marco had re-set my password, so I sent him a list of gear I needed forwarded up the line (some of my clothing is coming to pieces after the wear and tear of the past 8 weeks, plus I needed to replace the pair of socks and underwear that I had left at the Rice Field Shelter (I'm sure the hikers behind them REALLY appreciated that little bit of Trail Magic...).

We headed off to Roanoke just before noon, taking some time to get around a street market/festival and find the outdoor store; nice place but very limited selection, so we ended up going to a Dick's Sporting Goods nearby, where Mark bought some medium/low ankle Merrills that were considerably more comfortable on his feet. Hopefully this will help on the blister front. We ate a late lunch/early dinner at the Golden Corral, and quite a feast it was, too! Got back around 4:00, and started in on some blog reports for Pete. Typed reports til 7:30, and called it a day. Meanwhile, Mark chatted with one of Essie's friends who came by to talk about the trail. I think we'll risk leaving our gear out tonight - but maybe not!

Once I finished typing up and sending the blog reports, we had a light dinner courtesy of Mark's mom, and discussed our upcoming resupply points. We're able to resupply regularly for the next week or so, which will certainly keep our pack weights down versus last week. I also chatted with Essie's friend John about our food and gear; as a previous hunter, he was very interested in how we were living on the trail. Once dinner was over we headed over to a nearby Kroger's grocery store and bought a few things to carry us through to Troutville on Tuesday mid-day. We also noted that Mark's mom's car had a major radiator leak, something she'll take care of tomorrow; hopefully it's just a hose and not a water pump or some other really pricey repair. Back at the house, we sorted food and gear and laid things out for our departure tomorrow; Mark fully packed but I left things unpacked to give my pack another 8 hours to fully dry out. Checked the weather forecast - Monday and Tuesday both clear but hot (near 90 on Tuesday), then increasing chances of afternoon thunderstorms on Wednesday and Thursday. After a little more TV (the Nationals lost again), bed by 11:00. Back at it tomorrow....

Day 57 - Into Catawba and a Break at Mark's Aunt

2009-06-01T11:52:00.006-04:00

Saturday, May 30th - Up at 5:45, clear but chilly - 46 degrees - with a gentle breeze. Still pretty humid, and the stuff we left out overnight did not noticeably dry, so another day starting out in wet clothing. Since we tented (up the hill from Pickle Branch Shelter), and had various items hanging out, it took a little longer than usual to get going, but we finally left at around 6:30. Ran into Criqui just as we reached the access trail from the shelter, and so he joined us for a couple of hours. He had reached the shelter about 45 minutes after we had last night, but rather than camp he just slept on the picnic table instead; lucky for him it didn't rain.

The breeze picked up as we got back to the A.T., and it was clear that the long-awaited front was pushing through. Today's hike took a roundabout course to get to an unusual rock formation, the Dragon's Tooth , a spire of stone about 50 feet high at the end of a ridge. It was interesting, but the trail leading to it and then (especially) past it was probably the most challenging and actually dangerous section that we had faced on the trail to date. At various points we were basically "rock hopping;" at others we were climbing down rungs in the face of the rock, and at still others we were very carefully picking our way across thin ledges over a 25 foot drop. [Criqui and another hiker "Witness" left us behind pretty quickly once we passed the Tooth, and we also met various hikers coming up - the Tooth is sort of the Old Rag of Roanoke.] It was exhausting work for Mark and I, and took over 2 hours to make less than a mile - hard work and a long way out of the way to go see a rock formation!

Continuing on, a lot of ups and downs today, nothing super-tough, but a couple of pretty stiff climbs, especially after lunch. Water was also a bit of a concern (again), as the only creek we passed was running brownish and had lots of leaf debris in the current. Another consequence of all the rain from the past 5 days. We finally reached another stream that seemed better than anything else we had seen, and grabbed a liter each there - good thing, as there was nothing available for the rest of the day's hike. After traversing about a mile of pasture (and staring down a half a dozen Angus cattle, and traversing about 8 cattle guards, including one that was electrified (how very exciting!)), we climbed the last ridge of the day, many ups and down and more rock-hopping along the ridgeline spine, more tough going. We had to turn around one group that was looking for McAfee Knob (a rather famous scenic area here); they had come south off the parking lot instead of north, and so were about 5 miles wrong. Not positive they believed us, though....

We reached the parking lot at Rt. 311 at 2:55, where Mark's mom and aunt (Essie) were already awaiting our arrival. So just under 13 miles for the day, but (honestly) a pretty tough day nonetheless. We laid some blankets on the back seat to minimize fouling her car, and quickly left for Aunt Essie's house in Cave Spring, about a 20 minute drive. Once we arrived, we immediately emptied our gear on her back patio, which was still in bright sunshine, and I took the opportunity to hose out my boots, orthodic inserts, rain gear, and several other items that were distinctly "reeking." Then a very badly needed shower. After a break for some drinks, we later did our laundry, set out the GPS "Spot," and sent Pete about half a dozen photos from my camera, dating all the way back to Trail Days (while we were relaxing on the porch). I also called Joe at Casual Adventure and ordered a replacement hipbelt and shoulder straps for my pack, to be picked up in about 3 weeks when I get to Harpers Ferry (and take a couple of days off). A groundhog and some bluebirds kept us company while we were on the porch.

Eventually we headed off to dinner at Country Cookin', a combination buffet and menu restaurant (order entrees off the menu; everything else was all-you could eat off the buffet). We also hit a CVS to grab some Liquid Skin and other blister bandages for Mark's feet - either his feet have widened, his boots have shrunk, or the inserts have expanded from all the wet, and so he is getting a sizable number of blisters (this is the first time either of us have had this problem). Back at the house, I was unable to log onto my email account, so I ended up calling Marco and asked him to re-set my password. Also discussed a few other minor house issues, including a sizable tax bill from Arlington County - apparently my new mortgage company did not pay the taxes out of my escrow, so something else to figure out and fix in absentia. Hmmmmm....

Mark bandaged his feet, and determined that his current boots were just not going to work anymore, so we'll be buying new boots tomorrow somewhere. Bed around 9:30; Mark watched a bit of the latest Nationals loss, but I fell asleep pretty quick. A good day, but the long side-hike to the Dragon's Tooth really took it out of us.

Day 56 - A Very Long Day to within Striking Distance of Catawba (Roanoke)

2009-06-01T11:42:00.005-04:00

Friday, May 29th - Got up around 6:00, very humid and raining. The creek was raging so hard we could plainly hear it from a hundred feet away. Got going around 6:35, and spend at least half an hour crossing the creek twice. The first time we skooched across (on our butts) on a large log that was way too slick to walk on; the second time we ended up taking off our boots and putting on our camp shoes and (carefully) wading it; tough going! Past the second crossing, we met one of last night's late arrivers coming back - apparently Dog #2 had taken off during the storm, and they had no idea where he was. With the rain washing out their scent, I suspect Dog #2 is in serious trouble.

Two brutal climbs today, up successive ridges, followed by two equally tough descents - we are ridge-hopping from west to east, working our way over to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Looks easy on a map; very tough to do in actuality. Got a little sun during the mid-day, but then rain again late afternoon.

There were several high points today: First, we crossed the Eastern Continental Divide (aka the Tennessee Divide - see above), where all the water falling to the east goes to the Atlantic Ocean, while all the water falling to the west (but east of the Continental Divide) goes to the Gulf of Mexico. Next, we again walked through stretches of trail lined by blooming mountain laurels. And third, we visited the Audie Murphy Memorial (America's most decorated war veteran, and later an actor in numerous movies); the memorial is placed near the site where he died in a plane crash in 1971. In addition to the very impressive memorial itself, there were an American flag, and a Texas flag, two wreaths, and various other mementos. We ended up eating an early dinner on a sitting bench opposite the memorial.

On the negative front, we also passed through 2 or 3 more stretches of defoliated trees. Did another descent and then a final climb to the Pickle Branch Shelter - fortunately the rain finally quit as we made this final push. The shelter was well off the A.T. (at least a third of a mile), and was hard to find with numerous side trails confusing the issue. The shelter itself was very full (10 people at a shelter designed for 8), so we turned around, came back up the access trail a bit, and found a reasonably nice tenting site. It was about 8:15 by this point, so (by necessity) we did a quick setup, got the bear-bags up, and hit the rack by 9:10, at which point it was already pretty dark. Mark's feet are really bothering him now, not the quadriceps but rather from numerous blisters. So he worked on them for awhile. I used a couple of Antibacterial Wet-Ones to give myself a wipedown - we're both filthy and smell like a landfill at this point. Been a tough stretch of days. 22 miles today, nearly 14 hours on the trail, and our various leg problems did not stop us, so it seems our ramping up the mileage discipline worked. At last, no rain tonight....

Day 55 - Our 1st Long Day Since Mark Returned

2009-06-01T11:34:00.002-04:00

Thursday, May 28th - Got up at 6:00 am (Spice-Man stayed in bed); took awhile to get all our non-drying gear together, so we ended up leaving around 6:45. Light to moderate rain on and off all day today, along with distant thunder now and again. Various ups and downs to get to a bridge (a very nice bridge) over Stony Creek - which was raging out of its banks. Most of the creeks and tributaries are either at or above flood, and obviously this is becoming a concern with seemingly no end to the rain. We had two very tough climbs today (both over 1500 feet), to get to our intended destination, Laurel Creek Shelter. Passed Bailey Gap Shelter - no one there - and we kept on truckin'.

One of the biggest negatives of the trip occurred today, as we passed through several long stretches of the trail where the trees were virtually defoliated from gypsy moths, the first time we have noted this; it's clear many of the trees will not survive (many appear to be already dead). I'm not sure why the state hasn't sprayed the area yet - it seems to me they're already a day late and a dollar short. You can actually hear the damn things chewing; unbelievable. The ground is littered with bits of leaf. Also passed many more dead or dying hemlocks, all from the Woolly Adelgid infestation. There were some good points too, however; first, we had many stretches where we were walking through tens of thousands of blooming mountain laurels. Also stretches of what I will call "fern-fields," with (again) thousands of ferns lining both sides of the trail, some up to 3 feet high. Finally, coming up one of the hills, we could hear and feel a deep rumble underground, and realized we were listening to a major creek pounding (through the rocks) 10 or 20 feet below us - something else I have never experienced in all my years outdoor.

Continued past War Spur Shelter, and started up the second major climb, a brutal straight-up-the-mountain old jeep road that seemed like it would never end. Took over a hour to get up, and we were pretty whipped by the time we reached the crest. [Apparently we just missed seeing a huge rattlesnake, photographed by Rollo, a hiker, about 15 minutes behind us.] We spent a few minutes and called Mark's Aunt Essie in Cave Spring, VA (near Roanoke), where we plan to stop for a day or two this Saturday and maybe Sunday. Then a descent and final minor climb to get to Laurel Creek Shelter, arriving 6:15, in the rain. Only 6 spaces at this rather small shelter, so we were quite happy to find two remaining spaces left - not a trivial concern with heavy thunderstorms still expected (and we could hear distant thunder even as we arrived). Criqui, Rollo, Witness, and a section-hiker Can-Do, were there.

Both Mark and I spent some time doing some personal cleanup down at the creek (which was also raging), which helped a bit on the groadiness front - the water was bone chilling cold! Dinner around 7:15, and bed around 8:30, with lightning on the distant western horizon. Amazingly, a large group of local hikers came in around 8:45, with 2 dogs in tow, and sat at the picnic table nonchalantly chatting with Rollo and Criqui, seemingly oblivious to the potential of a coming storm. By this point the western horizon was being lit up every 5 seconds or so, and we had distant booms of thunder. They finally started get set up (in the dark) around 9:15 - 9:20, about 10 or 15 minutes before the skies opened up and yet another torrential downpour started, along with heavy winds and a couple of nearby lightning strikes. Those of us in the shelter were VERY happy to be inside and under cover. I'm not sure I've ever seen any group so heedless of a coming storm, and I'm sure they paid the price overnight. Another night with minimal sleep.

Day 54 - Another Short Day (with rain)

2009-06-01T11:24:00.002-04:00

Wednesday, May 27th - Got up at Rice Field Shelter around 6:50 or so - various alarms went off between 5:30 and 6:30, but no one was interested in getting up with the overnight rain. I guess I wasn't the only one who didn't sleep all that well last night. As expected with the heavy rain, no one's gear dried out overnight, so it was another dress up in wet clothes. Butter Toes was the first out the door, wearing only sandals (no way could I do that!) Mark and I dressed in our rain gear, though I suspected it would be a waste of time. We ate breakfast in the shelter, and left around 8:00, in moderate rain. It rained til about 9:30 or so. Since we were already on the ridgeline, we had a fairly easy hike of it to start, stopping after a mile and a half to pick up some good water at a trailside spring (much better than at Rice Field Shelter). Then it was a decent trail along the ridgeline, with only a few rocky sections, then a reasonable descent down to Pine Swamp Branch Shelter. The day slowly improved, with a few peaks of sun.

We eventually intersected with the Allegheny Trail, which does 330 miles from this point up to the Mason Dixon line; we ate lunch here, around 1:00 pm. The Allegheny trail looked poorly maintained, so I'm glad we're not attempting that! We reached the shelter around 2:30 or so, after about 12 1/2 miles done, and again laid all our gear out to take advantage of what sunshine we could get - and also fired up Mark's radio. Criqui and Witness were already there, but moved on shortly after we arrived. Despite the name, this shelter is again in memory of Robert William Trimpi, (1951 - 1969), the second one we have seen dedicated to his memory. No register at the shelter. About a dozen other people came through, but very oddly all but one were "slack-packing" it, all from Pearisburg. They were getting rides back to Pearisburg, or were staying at "The Captain's Place," a trailside house whose owner allows hikers to sleep in an enclosed porch area (you have to use a zip-line to cross a creek to get to his house). Everyone was complaining about the weather.

We ate around 6:00, with the rain starting up again. One last hiker came in around 8:30, "Spice-Man," and he was really hurting with numerous blisters, and had virtually all his gear sopping wet (his tent is not waterproof, and he had tented out in last night's heavy storms). He had made the mistake of swapping out his boots at Trail Days for a pair of trail-runners, and had been in agony ever since; obviously, a bad mistake. We both suggested that he have his boots mailed back to him in Catawba, and I think he planned on doing so. Mark and I hit the rack around 9:00, but Spice-Man was up for another hour at least, eating dinner and stretching out all his gear inside the shelter - lucky it was just the 3 of us there tonight.

Day 53 - Mark (and the rain) Returneth

2009-06-01T10:55:00.003-04:00

Tuesday, May 26th - Got up around 6:30, grabbed another shower. Overcast and damp (streets wet from overnight rain), but not raining - yet. Mark got up around 7:00, and we decided to go to the Dairy Queen for breakfast, returning around 8:00. No chance to check email this morning. Did our final packup and headed out, with thanks to the hotel proprietor for his courtesy in allowing me extensive use of the Internet computer in the Office.

Our packs did in fact weigh a ton this morning with 5 days food in them. Walked the mile down to the trail, picking it up where I had walked out two days ago (on Sunday afternoon). As expected, the trail was once again a slippery mess, with the brush closely crowding in and everything dripping wet; gonna be another tough hike. Several spots were hard to figure out, it was so overgrown (including with poison ivy) and missing blazes at several critical junctures. We crossed the New River (probably the largest river we have yet crossed), and finally got back to the "real" trail in the trees. We had about a 1500 foot climb to get back on top of the ridgeline, not a killer but a long climb nonetheless. It started raining fairly heavily on the way up, but neither of us elected to put on our rain gear because it was so sultry and we were already sweating pretty hard just doing the hike up. The wind is still blowing tropical moisture directly north from the Gulf of Mexico (a VERY strange weather pattern for this time of the year), and that explained the high humidity, fairly high temperatures, and (of course) all the heavy rains. This weather pattern had started yesterday, and was forecast to continue all week, which wasn't real good news to anyone hiking the A.T.!

Finally reached the Rice Field Shelter (Ed. - a large bald - that's Mark in the picture above "basking like a seal" between storms at the shelter) just before noon; 7 miles down (plus the extra mile of non-A.T. road walking, so 8 miles total for the day). Only one person (female) was there when we arrived (Butter Toes). I grabbed our canteens, including one from Butter Toes, and headed down a VERY long trail down to a spring/creek; the water was a bit discolored from sediment, but that eventually settled out. Various other hikers eventually came in, including Windbreaker and Holdout, but most were heading on to the next shelter (about 12 miles further on), whereas Mark and I were intentionally taking it slow to work his leg back into it gradually (so 7 miles today, 12 tomorrow, then 19, 22, and 13 to get to the 311 road crossing near Roanoke this Saturday).

We got some breaks in the clouds and rain, which enabled us to partially dry some of our stuff (and ourselves) out in the field. Another fairly heavy rain started around 3:00 pm, which put a halt to any further attempts to dry out. Dinner around 6:30. A few more people came in, including Criqui, by about 8:00 pm, so we ended up with 7 people in the shelter (intended for 6, but we made it work). Misty again as it got dark, with a pretty good breeze blowing. Mark's leg (Naproxen, a knee brace, and Icy/Hot patches) seems good, and so I am happy that we stuck with our hiking plan and didn't push on to the next shelter (even though we both felt like we could). My own leg is throbbing a lot less today, but 8 miles isn't too much of a test. The rest of the week will tell me if it's just going to fade away, or be with me for awhile (right now it seems like it's slowly easing, as you'd expect for a bone bruise). Just after we settled in for the night, we had torrential rain and a lot of wind, from 9:30 til 11:00, and a second heavy batch from 1:30 til 3:00, so we were happy to be under cover overnight. Luckily the angle of the wind kept the rain from blowing into the shelter face. But the wind also kept up a constant patter of tree-drip on the top of the shelter, so I didn't sleep all that well. But better than being in a tent, that's for sure.

Day 52 - A Day of Rest, and Mark Returns

2009-05-25T22:59:00.003-04:00

Monday, May 25th (Memorial Day) - Up at 6:00, grabbed another shower, and headed back to the Dairy Queen for breakfast. Got back at 7:00 and immediately started typing up blog reports again, sending several off to Pete as soon as I had them done. Got a call from Mark around 10:40 or so - turned out they were already in the parking lot! So he and Brenda made pretty good time from Arlington. I spent a few more minutes finishing up a report, and we headed back to their car. Once we got Mark's stuff (and my new Therm-a-Rest) up to the room, and gave Brenda my old Therm-a-Rest and a few more minor items, she took off (didn't even want lunch); probably a good decision at the end of a holiday weekend with heavy thunderstorms expected.

Mark and I reviewed our trail plans, and decided to take 5 days to our next stop (about 70 miles up the trail). After inventorying our food, we headed over to Hardee's for lunch. Back at the room, we made our respective grocery lists and headed across the street to the Food Lion for resupply. We also checked out a Chinese restaurant nearby, and we'll probably hit it for dinner later tonight. I also briefly checked a Goodwill store for another T-Shirt (one of mine is dying), but all they had was cotton, so I passed. Something for the next CARE package from Marco, I guess, or maybe I'll wait til I get to Northern Virginia and take a couple of days off at home.

Dropped my groceries back at the room, and headed down for another set of blog reports, bringing me up to today (finally caught up!), which should please Pete and the various "followers." Back at the room, Mark was napping, so I semi-quietly sorted all the groceries, then did some laundry in the sink and hung it out on the rail (under cover, outside our room) to dry. Moderately threatening weather, but no rain yet. Appear to be quite a lot of hikers coming into the hotel, including some familiar faces; guess the fast-hikers among the Damascus crowd is starting to catch us. Finally got some rain showers, some heavy.

Mark eventually roused and we watched the last of Star Wars Episode V, then headed to the Chinese restaurant for dinner, dodging the raindrops on the way (we ate the buffet - decent). Back at the hotel, we chatted briefly with the Birds group, then with One Step when he came in (suffering from a lot of blisters, and still has to see the dentist (tomorrow, he says)). Mark repacked his pack, while I did one last blog report. Then I re-packed as well. We're planning on doing a short (7 mile) hike tomorrow, maybe 12 - 15 miles on Wednesday, to get Mark back into the groove slowly. Hopefully my own leg issues will appreciate the break too!

Day 51 - A Nero Into a Zero in Pearisburg

2009-05-25T22:45:00.002-04:00

Sunday, May 24th - Got up at 5:45 am at Doc's Knob Shelter, overcast skies, 58 degrees. Quick packup and gone by 6:15, with farewells to Dick Brown. 8 1/2 miles to Pearisburg. First 6 miles pretty easy - mostly an old road/trail followed by moderate ups and downs along a ridgeline trail. Right shin still hurting, though not as bad as yesterday (yet).

Misty and gray, with occasional drops of rain, but nothing of note. Two sets of deer this morning - 2 or 3 went crashing through the brush to my left about 2 hours in (just after I finished eating a quick breakfast), then 2 more who crossed behind me about an hour later. A big disappointment was no views at various overlooks, including"Angel's Rest," supposed to offer a fabulous view of the valley. Well, nothing but another sea of gray. Very steep descent down from Angel's Rest to Bluff City/Pearisburg, and my shin starting barking again. I am committed now to take tomorrow (Memorial Day Monday) off, and give my body a break to heal up some. Made the road at 10:15, decent time for the distance. Naturally, the clouds that had socked in the mountain just an hour before were now breaking up, and it was turning into a pretty nice day.

Decided against the Rendezvous Hotel (located right at the trailhead), since they had no Internet, and I have much typing to do to catch up on the blog reports and recover from the power failure in Bland. Called the Holiday Motor Lodge and reserved a room, no shuttle, and no one picking up hikers today (I tried for about 15 minutes), so I ended up hiking it in - lucky for me it was only about a mile. Only $38 a night, and in fact they gave me a double. Got cleaned up, then hit the local Dairy Queen for lunch. Checked email, and fired off a status email to Pete and Pauline, but the time limit is 30 minutes with people waiting, and several people were waiting to check their email before heading backout.

The rest of the afternoon was spent making phone calls, typing up blog reports (in 30 minute intervals), and sorting my gear; though quite tired, I resisted taking a nap. Various other hikers were at the hotel, coming and going, including the Birds (with Chachee (sp?)back in tow), plus the two guys that Mark and I had met back at the Virginia Inn in Marion, plus a few other vaguely familiar faces. Pearisburg is the last full service town for about 60 - 65 miles, so just about everyone stops here for at least a day, because it's 3 days minimum to get to the Roanoke area (more like 5 days for us).

Talked to Pete on the phone, and he gave me some good news in that he had managed to buy one of these new Therm-a-Rests for me at Casual Adventure (he got the last one they had in my size). Then I got a call from Mark, and after we discussed my desire to take a zero day here tomorrow (Monday), he decided to meet me here instead of on the trail. He sounds much more confident about his leg now. So he and Brenda will meet me at the hotel around noon or so. And he'll bring my new Therm-a-Rest too (and Brenda can take my old one home). So, things are looking up!

I hit the Hardee's for dinner, and called Mark again about our hiking plans and how much food to buy (how many days worth, an important decision since we were going to be doing short days to start, and it was a long way to the next grocery stop). Then I walked over to the Food Lion (in a large strip mall across the street), but didn't get food yet, but rather just bought more ibuprofen, Neosporin, and batteries (for the SteriPen). Back to the hotel, I typed up one more blog report, then transcribed a few more days worth for tomorrow. Decided to hit the rack around 10:30 - I realized as I turned off the light that I hadn't turned on the TV since I had arrived, not even for the Weather Channel. I guess I really am ready for a break!

Day 50 - Another Long Day's Hike

2009-05-25T22:36:00.002-04:00

Saturday, May 23rd - (At Jenny's Knob Shelter) - Got up at 5:45, clear but quite damp; I guess we were just at or above the dew point by dawn, so the humidity was just starting to condense out out on everything. Hiked hard for about 2 hours, then stopped for breakfast at a nice overlook (actually I forced myself to stop, since I was doing so well).

Once again drinking a lot of water. Crossed "Dismal Creek" (what a name!) and its tributaries multiple times, so water wasn't a problem for the first part of the day. Leapfrogged several times with Windbreaker (Patrick, the former Philmont staffer at Rich Cabins). Got to Wapiti Shelter (about 14 miles in) and ate lunch there, now noticeably hot (1st time over 80 on my thermometer); no one else there, but another sectional hiker arrived just as I was leaving. Just after Wapiti, the trail climbed about 1500 feet over about 2 miles to get back up on the ridge. Tough hiking in the heat of the day - and no more water once I reached the top of the ridge, either. So back to water-rationing again, a few swallows every 30 minutes.

No butterflies today, so I guess May 22nd was the big dance, and I hope no one missed it! But I did have two "interesting" bits of Trail Magic: First, I began hearing banjo music (shades of Deliverance, perhaps?), and about a quarter mile later I found Patrick playing his trail banjo at a rock overlook with a great view of the valley below. He's pretty good, actually! Then an hour or so later I came up on Patrick again, photographing a deer near the side of the trail - but when I walked up, it turned out he was photographing a newborn fawn, still wet and barely able to stand up yet. Something I have never seen in all my years in the woods. The doe (a quite large doe, I will add), was watching us from about 20 feet away, but didn't seem all that concerned about our presence. Nonetheless, I decided against taking off my pack, which I felt might startle or agitate her, and we moved on a minute later. So no photos for me, but a pretty amazing interlude anyway.

As we climbed further up the ridge, the trail deteriorated again - very rocky, especially from Horse Gap to Sugar Gap to Doc's Knob Shelter, and my right shin and left knee both started complaining pretty loudly. Let's just say that taking a zero day in Pearisburg was looking more attractive with each step. Patrick split off at Sugar Gap to go to the Wood's Hole Hostel, which had been advertised in shelters and at road crossings for 20 miles. I suspected that most northbounders would be going there, but since I was planning to be in Pearisburg the next day, a hostel stay didn't seem worth it. The situation with my right shin, and a steep, half-mile long downhill to the hostel, both played a role in that decision!

As it turned out, I was alone in pushing on past the hostel. Finally reached Doc's Knob Shelter just before 7:00 pm, pretty good for 23 miles (for me, anyway). That makes just over 100 miles in 5 days, which for me is pushing pretty hard. There was a single southbound sectional hiker at the shelter, Dick Brown, about 60 years old; he had through-hiked the A.T. about 10 years ago. Nice guy. No one else showed up, so I'm guessing Wood's Hole was doing a booming business. Checked the Register - Yoon had come through 8 days before, Happy 4 days before, and others I know (Salty Dog, Thunderpants and Sis, Rusty, Holdout, etc.) were all 1 or 2 days in front of me. Drank a liter and a half of water with dinner, and needed it. Hit the rack around 8:45, with the intent to get up at 5:30 am and push on into town early. A good day but another long one.

Day 49 - Bland 'til mid-day, then back at it ...

2009-05-25T11:10:00.004-04:00

Friday, May 22nd - Up at 6:00, wishing for more sleep. Leg doing a little better, but still twinging. Over to the Dairy Queen for breakfast, and did most of my shopping at the associated Kangaroo Mini-Mart. Back to the room, sorted food into individual meal packets, then spent an hour transcribing blog reports. At 8:30, got the hotel shuttle guy ("Bubba") to take me to the Post Office, where I picked up my package from Marco. Then walked to the local IGA and picked up some cheese (the only thing not at the Kangaroo mart). Then to the library, where I continued transcribing til it opened at 9:30. Checked email, sent my upcoming trail plans to Mark so we can link back up next week, and started typing up blog reports to Pete. The disaster struck at 10:30, when a widespread power failure hit Bland, Bastians, and another local town, and 3 days of reports vanished into the ether; arrgh! I was maybe 5 minutes away from sending and heading back to the hotel; great timing, eh? I waited about 20 minutes in the forlorn hope that maybe I could recover the data, but finally decided I was wasting my time as the extent of the power failure became clearer.

Got a hitch across town to the Subway, where they were still serving food. Quite a line there, including a sports team of some sort, all wearing red West Virginia Chaos T-Shirts, but all speaking in heavy English accents. [So I'm guessing they either won the shirts, or received them as gifts.] Once I finished eating I headed back up to the hotel to re-pack - somewhat more leisurely than planned, because my shuttle driver back to the trail had had to go to a town 20 miles away for something, due to the power failure. Fortunately I could still see in the room, with the door open and blinds pulled back. The power came back on at 12:30 - I called the librarian and she confirmed that my data was lost when their computers rebooted; oh well....

By now it was quite hot and humid, so I drank about a liter of water and filled both my canteens all the way. My ride arrived at 12:45, and immediately took me back to the trailhead, dropping me off at just about 1:00 pm. Several hikers were hiking down the hill to town (including Criqui I think), and about 5 - 6 more were gathered at the trailhead, having just arrived - one took advantage and grabbed my shuttle back to town. I chatted for about 5 minutes with the others,
letting them know what was where in town, then I saddled up and moved out.

Unfortunately the road section back down to the trailhead (from 52 north) was atrociously blazed, and I was reduced to guessing where the trail was supposed to be in several places (the map and A.T. Companion didn't help). I ended up guessing wrong in one place and hiked 20 minutes up a steep hill before deciding this couldn't be right. Going back, I finally found another very faint blaze after about 150 yards, and that confirmed I was (finally) on the right route. This entire section could be re-done in 15 minutes by anyone with a car and a can of white paint, so this was really totally ridiculous, especially on a hot day where water turned out to be at a premium. Even the first couple of miles of the actual trail was poorly blazed, with old, faint blazes very widely spaced. Certainly the poorest job I have seen since starting the trek.

The trail itself was pretty decent, however, and once I got going I made it the 2 1/2 miles to Helveys Mill Shelter in short order. Got one form of trail magic today, with hundreds of large, black-purple butterflies doing their mating dances; quite pretty. The shelter was back nearly a third of a mile, and the water another long downhill from there, but I didn't have much choice today, because it was a 10 mile hike coming up, very hot, and with little or no water sources along the way. I drank a liter on site, and filled both canteens up to the brim. And a lucky thing, because it indeed was a 10 mile dry hole, with every streambed dry (not even mud). I rationed my water to a couple of swallows every 30 minutes, and made it to the Jenny's Knob Shelter around 7:00 pm, with about 2 cups left; I'm guessing a lot of people hiked themselves dry today.

The shelter was about a quarter mile off the trail, Windbreaker and One Step were there, that was it. There were two blue-blazed trails there; since the guys said that the one source was just a little pool, I tried the other first - another long downhill to yet another dry streambed. So back up to the shelter and over to the other source, a 3 x 3 foot shallow pool, but clear and cold water, so clearly spring-fed, not just a seepage; Thank You Lord! We all ate dinner; One Step was surprised to lose an entire filling while eating; fortunately he didn't swallow it, but he'll have to get off the trail for repair. Cas showed up around 8:20, nearly dark. We listened to Appalachian Folk Music on a local radio station, and hit the rack around 10 pm. Even with only 12 miles today, my right shin is still barking.

Day 48 - Pounding out the miles into Bland

2009-05-25T11:05:00.002-04:00

Thursday, May 21st - (At Chestnut Knob Shelter) - Up at 5:40, windy and chilly, thin overcast but fading away as the sun rose. Ate breakfast in the shelter, and we all discussed who was doing what - Rocket was planning on a 33 mile day, to which I can only say "Ouch." Holdout and Big Tuna were also planning on going past Bland (to a shelter about 2 1/2 miles past the town), but were keeping their options open. I was thinking about stopping short of Bland, at Jenkins Shelter, and nero-ing in the next day, or going all the way if I could hack it with my leg.

On my way at 6:30, the first one out. Early on I had a few more sessions of that May Fly hatch, which I enjoyed. Saw a bunch of deer today, at least 7 in 4 different groups or solos. Also passed 3 southbounders, one solo and one duo, who had started at Harper's Ferry and were planning to flip-flop once they got to Springer. Also passed a trail building Crew, about 12 people, who were planning on spending the entire weekend renovating trail; I had already passed some of their handiwork earlier in the day. Of course, I expressed my appreciation to them as they passed. Having done similar work on numerous occasions in my life, I have a better appreciation than most for what it takes. And seeing them also explains why so much of Virginia's trails are in such good shape. Most of the trail today was decent, no really brutal climbs or descents, and not too rocky (for which my leg was grateful).

Got to the Jenkins Shelter and signed in, grabbed some water, and chatted with 4 hikers there. One of the things I'm noticing now is that I don't really know anyone anymore; most of the folks I know are either well ahead or well behind me now. Decided I still had a lot left in the tank, so I continued on; nice day, but with slowly increasing cloudiness. Water is clearly an issue, and many hikers are running themselves dry - I had at least 8 liters today, maybe 10 or 11 (you lose count after awhile). Passed two Trail Magics today as I climbed over the last mountain towards Bland - a Methodist Church group had laid out a cooler at the start of the climb with a bunch of Powerade type lime flavored drinks (I passed on that, having just drank a liter of water), and someone else laid out a bunch of gallon jugs of water at the end of the climb, in memory of a would be through-hiker from Lakewood, Florida, who had died 3 days before starting his trek (in 2003); that one I took advantage of.

Finally reached Rt. 52 and laid out the Spot, then read up on Bland in the Companion. Called the Big Walker Hotel and reserved a room; they didn't have a shuttle available at that time, so after the Spot was done I hitched in - took about 25 minutes because there was little traffic; most people going to Bland use the Interstate (I-77). But finally "Mike" came by in a nice pickup truck and got me to the hotel. Unfortunately he had some transmission fluid in the bed of his truck, which got on the clothes hanging on my pack. And (of course!) the nearest laundromat is 12 miles from Bland, so this will have to be a job in the sink.

Grabbed another blazing hot shower, went to Dairy Queen for dinner, and made some phone calls and text messages. Talked to Mark and he said he would come back down on Memorial Day Monday - his doc said a week off and a better anti-inflammatory (800 mgs Naproxen) should do the trick. I'm very pleased with this news! He'll start about 20 miles ahead of me, so he can start with short hikes and let me catch him. Sounds like a plan.

Back at the hotel, cleaned my stained clothes as best as I could, and laid them out. Then made a few more phone calls, and ended the day transcribing blog reports for typing up tomorrow. Right leg barking but rest (and some ice) is helping. Tomorrow will be a busy day!

Day 47 - 1st Solo Day is a Long One

2009-05-25T10:44:00.003-04:00

Wednesday, May 20th - (At the Relax Inn) - Got up at 6:00 and finished packing. Mostly clear but chilly, around 45 degrees. Headed up to the Barn for breakfast, and chatted with a few hikers there (One Step, Rocket, others). Headed back to the Inn at 8:00, and back on the trail at 8:20 - 2 hours later than my normal/desired departure time, but OK as long as I don't dilly-dally along the way.

The day quickly cleared to a beautiful blue sky with a hint of a cloud. Lot of field walking today, through various pastures, and over a lot of cattle guards - in fact I managed to give myself a very deep bone bruise on my upper right shin when I slipped on a wobbling step on one of the guards, causing me to slam my leg into the next step up. Hurt like hell, but I massaged some of the pain out and continued on. The fields ended and the trail continued on through the woods, and I'm guessing we jumped ridgelines too, because the traffic noise from I-81 faded away as I descended into a valley and climbed back up the next hill. Highlights today included lots of flowers, including some sections where the trail wound through thousands of blooming rhododendrons. Heard (but did not see) two sets of deer crashing away, saw a rabbit, and also walked through several hatches of (I guess) tens of thousands of May Flies, many of which were landing on me for a second or two before taking back to the air.

Unfortunately my right leg was really aching, especially on the downhills (eerily similar to Mark's symptoms, even though a completely different injury). Also, water was again a bit of an issue, though there were some good sources along the way (but I try to avoid sizable streams, especially any that are draining from pastures). Did 14 miles to the first shelter (Maul Knob I think), no one there, so I signed in, got some water, and kept rolling along. The trail after Maul Knob Shelter was a heartbreaking, increasingly steep uphill 2000 foot climb with many false summits. Seemed endless, and in fact all four of us that made the shelter that evening insisted that it had to be 11 - 12 miles, not 9; it was just brutal, one of my toughest days, and not just because it was a 23 mile day or because my leg was hurting. Passed several hikers who had given up and tent-camped along the trail, but I kept going, and finally got to Chestnut Knob Shelter at 8:00. Rocket was there, and another guy, Big Tuna, plus a couple of locals and their dogs having a beer party (fortunately one was going home and the other was tent camping). Holdout showed up about half an hour later, also whipped and complaining about the distance. The shelter had been the cabin for a fire warden, and was a pretty nice, enclosed, rock cabin. Nice sunset, but clear, chilly, and windy. Beautiful stars once it got dark. Bed by 10:00 pm. A long day!

Memorial Day Update

2009-05-25T07:35:00.003-04:00

Have spoken with Bob and there is good news! Mark is rested, healed, and armed with the medications he believes will allow him to continue! He is leaving this morning to meet the dogged doctor in Pearisburg, VA, where Bob is taking a zero today. After doing over 100 miles in 5 days solo, Bob's body begged for a break, and the chance to meet up with Mark was the final impetus. I saw Mark last night, delivering to him some stuff for Bob (a new, 14oz. Thermarest Neo-Air - the last one Casual Adventure had (thanks Charlie!) - as well as a repair kit and something for Bob to wear in his pictures from the gang at Casual Adventure).

Mark looks great and is itching to get back on the trail. He figured he better hurry up and meet up with Bob, or the miles he'll have to put in at the end of the trek to complete the trail will be huge! I told him Bob would probably hike it with him!

Somewhere around the third week in June is the target for Harper's Ferry and a quick break back in Arlington to celebrate the completion of the longest state on the trail. Expect more reports from Bob today!

A Note from Mark

2009-05-20T09:56:00.003-04:00

I'm not OK. (Ed. - Mark's GPS Spots always come through with the phrase 'I'm OK, Come join me on the Trail, Mark) I have what the doctor in Marion, VA called an over use injury in my left quadriceps. Gee I wonder how that happened we only hiked over 500 miles. Bob and I left Damascus VA on Tuesday May 12 to try and get 50 miles in before the Trailfest Festival in Damascus. On Wednesday I developed a sharp pain in my left leg while hiking over Whitetop Mountain about 25 miles north of Damascus. We met some folks that had a car parked near Mount Rogers and they took us into Marion, VA. I went to the hospital on Thursday morning and the doctor said to rest for a few days, take Ibuprofen, and take it easy. On Friday we got
a ride back to Damascus for Traildays. Mark Barker and Mel Herrmann came down Friday night and stayed through Saturday for the Festival. They took us back on the trail Saturday afternoon where we got off the previous Wednesday. We did 5 miles on Saturday, 16 on Sunday, and 10 on Monday. Everything seemed to be OK. The plan for yesterday was for 17 miles. After 10 miles I got a sharp shooting pain in my leg again. We were at the Mount Rogers NRA Visitor Center. I decided that I needed to come home and see my doctor and get more rest. I got a shuttle ride to Marion where my mom and my daughter Megan picked me up. I hope to get back on the trail in a week or less depending on what my doctor says. Bob is continuing on up the trail without me for now. The Spot contacts will be for Bob. I will rejoin him on the trail when I recover and then after we finish in Maine I'll come back to do the part I missed in VA.
-Mark "Red Shoes" Wray

Day 46 (Full Report) - Bob Going Solo

2009-05-19T22:00:00.000-04:00

Tuesday, 5/19 - (At Trimpi Shelter) - Got up at 6:00 - very chilly, 34 degrees, clear skies overhead, with a light breeze. Some fellow hikers said they saw frost along the trail, so it probably got below freezing in a few spots. On the trail at 6:30, moving really well on excellent trail, heading towards the Mt. Roger's Visitors' Center on Rt 16. Mark spotted a solo deer on the way - unlike most, this one stayed still and watched us walk by from about 20 yards, as opposed to crashing off through the brush as all the rest that we have seen thus far. We descended from about 3200 to 2400 feet, and "summertime" was quite evident as we descended. The only exception being the rhododendron thickets, which hold the cold very tenaciously. Got to Partnership Shelter (roughly 10 miles in), and it was as impressive as stated, with two decks, stairs to the second level, a propane-fired shower, a laundry tub out back, and a modern style latrine nearby. Pretty much the Rolls Royce of A.T. shelters. 200 yards later was the Mt. Roger's Visitors' Center, and we stopped for a break, and to check out the various displays inside. While we were there, a shuttle arrived from Marion and took about 8 hikers in. [Though we didn't know it yet, this shuttle would play an important role for us later that afternoon.]

Around 11:30, we headed back up, climbing a minor hill behind the Vistor's Center. It was pretty rocky on top, and as we started the descent on the opposite side Mark stopped and said that his quad problem had returned and that he couldn't continue. We talked about it for a few minutes, and decided to return to the Visitor's Center and see what we could do to get him home. Returning to the peak, I checked the cell phone coverage (2-3 bars, so we called Mark's mom from there since we were unsure of coverage at the Center itself (which is down in a hole somwhat). Mark told his mom that he was coming off the trail, and asked her to come get him, but to wait until he called back. We returned to the Visitor's Center, and found we could (barely) get a signal if we stood on a tall rock in front of the entrance. So Mark talked to his mom and daughter Megan a few times, plus we learned that he could take the shuttle back to Marion when it returned, and so he arranged for them to come down to Marion to pick him up. An emotional half hour, for sure - and very lucky we were here and not way back in the bush, 10 miles from the nearest road.

After that was arranged, Mark asked what I wanted to carry, and I took the GPS Spot, the crank radio, the maps, and the A.T. Companion guidebook. We also agreed that if I made it to Adkins by 6:30 or 7:00, that he, his mom, and daughter would meet me for dinner. I ate a quick lunch and hit the bathroom, then filled both canteens, said my goodbyes, and walked away. Mark turned and went back into the Vistor's Center to get a book (likely to be a long wait), and so we avoided watching each other walk out of sight (which is supposed to be bad luck). Is it unmanly to admit that I cried as I walked away? Hard to describe my emotions, but dismay and apprehension were prominent - aside from losing my hiking partner and friend, I had to give myself a stern lecture on not getting stupid - it's just me now, with very little safety net (especially when I'm off-trail) in an unforgiving environment. As I say to the Scouts, Mother Nature is not a liberal, and doesn't tolerate idiots. Climbed back over the hill, and did 7 miles to the Chatfield Shelter in 2 hours and 45 minutes, still running on adrenaline and emotion. As it turned out, the trail got very bad along the way, very nasty and rocky, so Mark fortuitously made the right call on that one. Upon reaching the shelter and removing my pack, I was actually light-headed - so I forced myself to take 20 minutes to calm down. A lot of water and a candy bar helped.

Continuing on, the trail improved dramatically, even crossing open fields for long stretches, with the trail mowed by a tractor, even up and down the switchbacks. Made Adkins (Rt. 11) just before 6:00, and laid out the Spot. The Relax Inn was just to my left, while the Exxon Mini-Mart (suggested resupply point) was just to my right. Journey and Cas walked by on their way to dinner, and so I filled them in on what had happened to Mark. I then called Megan Wray - they were still about 20-30 minutes away from Marion, so I checked into the Inn (unfortunately getting a room in the smoker's wing - nothing else was available), and quickly laid out my clean clothes. Mark called just as I was heading into the shower (using Megan's phone), so they headed on over. I grabbed a *very* hot shower, which dramatically helped my overall mood (and odor), and got out just as they arrived. So I got dressed and walked outside, just in time to see Criqui, who was looking a lot better after his medical treatment in Marion. Criqui had already eaten, so we headed up to "The Barn" restaurant, the same that Journay and Cas had been walking to. At least 10 other hikers were having dinner when we walked in, and many offered their sympathies to Mark (none, however, offered any sympathy to me!) The Barn was a nice place, and we enjoyed a good dinner together.

Once we were finished, Mark said his farewells all around, and we headed over to the Exxon for gas (and supplies for me). The Wrays took off, but I stuck around for another half hour to check email ($5 for 30 minutes, max time allowed). Basically I let Pete, Pauline, and several others that I was solo now. Criqui also came by and I loaned him $20 for supplies and beer (which he repaid as soon as we returned to the hotel). Back at my room, I quickly got my laundry together and did a load - lucky I didn't delay, because there was soon a waiting list for the machines. Returned to my room to sort my food and other stuff, and also checked the Weather Channel - excellent weather through Sunday, so a good chance for me to put some miles behind me. Once I got the clothes dried, I sorted them as well, then hit the rack. All told, 22 miles today, plus 1 more for the up and back with Mark. Another long day tomorrow, but at least the weather looks ideal.

Day 46 - Going it Alone

2009-05-19T21:47:00.002-04:00

Tuesday, May 19th -8:52pm -Quick update - Mark's quad problem returned this afternoon on the trail, seriously, and he's taking at least a week off to see if he can get it healed up. His mom and daughter picked him up in Marion this afternoon. So I'm soloing right now. Did 10 or so with Mark, then another 12 on my own. Also 1 additional mile up and back from the point where Mark said he couldn't go any further. So 23 total today for me, my highest yet. Obviously we're both pretty bummed, but what can you do? I wasn't willing to return to Arlington, because a week might not do it for Mark, and in fact his doctor may say he's done. Plus I am not sure that I'd return at all if I had a week or two of creature comforts. Right now I'm focused on the trail, and I need to keep it that way.

I'm at Adkins, VA (Mile 539) right now, so will pass the one fourth point of the Trail tomorrow sometime. I expect to be in Bland, VA (ca. 45 miles from here) either very late Thursday or early Friday. That may be optimistic, but without Mark I'm likely to hike 12 hours a day. Most of the other Through-hikers I know are either well ahead or well behind me right now, and a LOT of people dropped out in Damascus after Trail Days, so it's gonna be lonely for awhile. We'll see if I'm as tough (or stubborn) as I think.

I am limited to 30 minutes on this computer, so no further blog reports til I get to Bland, which will also be my next chance to check email. Pauline or Rick - please let whoever needs to know, know what's going on. Anyone - If you're going to the District Dinner, please give my
regards to all, and let them know I'm still plugging away down here.

Out of time, so gotta run.
- Bob

Day 45 - A "Fly-By" of Troutdale

2009-05-18T19:00:00.001-04:00

Monday, May 18th - Up at 6:30 am, clear and cold - 35 degrees! - and may have been even colder overnight (my breath was fogging for awhile around 4:00 am). Not bad versus some of the nights in Georgia and in the Smokies, but definitely colder than recently.

We got on the trail at 7:00, and put in roughly 6 miles to the "Hurricane Campground Aceess Road," off VA 630 (I think?), and we hitched a ride into Troutdale. Took 25 minutes before we finally got a ride, from a guy who was going right past Jerry's Diner and Mini-Mart, our desired breakfast and resupply spot. Pretty good breakfast, plus we were later greeted by Jerry himself. Mark and I also bought 2 days worth of food, enough to carry us to our next resupply point. I still needed to hit the Post Office, and as it turned out Jerry kept a guy (Gary) on sort of a retainer to shuttle hikers around the town, in exchange for which Jerry kept him well fed. So we first hit the Post Office, where I got my box from Brenda Wray, including my bug suit, bug hut, and new pack cover. I mailed the bug hut and a few of Mark's items (mostly used maps I think) back to my house - didn't need the hut anymore since I got the new tent. Gary then delivered us back to the trail at 11:40, so a 2 hour and 20 minute turnaround, not bad.

Back on the trail at 11:45, intending to keep it a short day. Long uphill to Trimpi Shelter, arriving 1:30. No one there when we arrived, but soon a number of folks started passing through on their way to the next shelter, including our friend Criqui, who came in wearing an eye patch and bearing a tale of woe - apparently he had scratched his cornea somehow, and so was looking to push on so he could get to the hospital in Marion. He had gotten some minor treatment at a clinic, but he was still suffering pretty badly, plus was stumbling all over the trail due to having to hike with only one eye (in fact, he removed the eye patch at the shelter, feeling that it was less risky than taking a hard fall). Criqui also regaled us with tales of the Friday and Saturday night parties at Damascus, where alcohol (and other substance) abuse was rampant, with a large percentage of partiers getting violently ill. He actually left cause it was just out of control, and ended up sleeping in the stadium dugout. He was also bummed because all his previous hiking buddies (Father Time, Muscles, Ezra, Sailor-J, etc.) had all dropped out. Mark and I said he was welcome to hike with us once he got his eye treated, and he seemed enthused about that - even though I warned him that we weren't fast hikers. Eventually he and all but 3 of the other hikers moved on - One Step and Rocket stayed in the shelter with us, and a southbound section-hiker (missed his name) tented below the shelter.

I took advantage of the early stop to set up and seam-seal my new tent - a very tedious job where meticulous care is critical. Setup was surprisingly easy; the seam-sealing much less so - it took 2 1/2 hours in total. Fortunately the seam-sealer dried fairly quickly. If I did it correctly, the tent should be about as waterproof as anything out there. We'll see! We ate dinner at 5:30 - getting chilly again, already 45 degrees. After testing various points for stickiness, I went ahead and took the tent back down and packed it away. Once again in our tents by 8:00 pm. Hopefully the intentionally short day will help Mark's leg situation.

Day 44 - Back on the Trail, but Mark's Injury is Acting Up

2009-05-18T17:35:00.000-04:00

Sunday, May 17th - At Thomas Knob Shelter - Tough night - rained hard, with occasional strong gusts of wind, from 9:30 - 11:30 pm, then again from 3:15 - 5:00 am, then again from 6:20 - 7:00 am. Some of the folks downstairs got wet from rain blowing in during the wind gusts, but we stayed dry upstairs. Not that I slept real well. Pity everyone in the tents! Chilly again, too, about 48 degrees. Mark and I got up at 6:00, but we also decided to eat at the shelter, since finding a "nice spot" for breakfast didn't seem too realistic a possibility this morning! So no quick getaway today.

Left at 7:00 am just as the heavy rain was easing a bit - still totally socked in and blowing hard, and we both quickly lost all feeling in our hands (an all too familiar sensation during this trek, so far). The lack of visibility was a real shame, because the view over the balds at Mt. Rogers are renown. Well, not today! And the ponies had the good sense to hunker down out of sight too. "Oh well." The mists began to break a bit around 10:00 am, and the rains ended, but by then we were well past the balds. Tough slogging again - very rocky trail, and running pretty deep in water at various points - Mark and I both got a boot full several times. The poor trail was beginning to aggravate Mark's injury again, but he kept pounding on anyway (not much choice!) We ended up continuing to the Old Orchard Shelter for lunch, arriving just about the time the sun started breaking through the clouds (a mixed blessing, because the temperature started to drop again as the front passed). Soon after we arrived at the shelter, a group of 10 students from Chatham University (near Pittsburgh?) came in, looking pretty miserable themselves. We had seen their vans at the Elk Garden parking lot, but this was the first we had seen of them. They were taking a course in "Environmental Art" (God only knows what that is!), and were out there for a week in the woods. They looked very young - in fact Mark thought they were high school students til we talked with them for awhile. No adults - there was one older looking student who I assume was a graduate assistant, who appeared to be somewhat in charge. They were all hugging each other for warmth, and I suggested that they put on their rain gear, but that was ignored, what do I know, right? Well, at least they were drying out in the breeze, even if half freezing to death in the process. A nice enough group, just unprepared for the conditions. We took our leave of them around 1:00.

The trail improved dramatically after the shelter, much better graded and with much less rock-hopping. We went up about a 1500 foot climb over Iron Mountain, but by the time we reached Hurricane Shelter Mark's leg had had enough, so we bagged it there, around 3:45. He is now very concerned about his ability to continue on the trek, and it seems with good reason, too - this is not a good development, after 2 zero days, for sure. After relaxing for a bit, we ate an early dinner, and also got in our sleeping bags early, since it was still windy and chilly, already in the mid-40's and still dropping. After a terrible start, a decent enough day, and 16 miles down - but even that may have been a shelter too far....

Day 43 - Trail Days, the Parade, & Back on the Trail

2009-05-17T17:15:00.004-04:00

Saturday, May 16th - (At the Day's Inn in Abingdon, VA) - Got up at 6:40, and grabbed a shower; Mark got up around 7:00. Packed up my gear, but removed my tent, tarp, and the associated hardware and ropes, and also about a half a dozen other small items that I had either barely used or not used at all over the previous 6 weeks. At 7:45, we noted that Mark B. was reloading his car, so we dragged our stuff down and he packed that in as well. [He'll drop off my removed stuff to Marco at my house.]

The "Continental Breakfast" at the hotel was totally lame, so we headed over to the Huddleston's across the highway, and Mel treated us all to breakfast. We spent a pleasant hour there, then headed back to the hotel for a final bathroom break and Weather Channel check. Looks like heavy rain later today and tomorrow morning, then great weather all next week. We all got back in the car, and Mark B. drove back to Damascus, where (again) the crowd wasn't living up to the hype - though there were a lot more than yesterday. However, there was some sort of a Boy Scout Bike-o-Ree going on just outside of town, on the Virginia Creeper Trail, so a lot of the vehicles were associated with that, not Trail Days. There were also a bunch of Little League games going on at the local stadium, too. Mark B. dropped us off at Tent City, then he and Mel returned to the main vendor area. I picked up my poles (new expanders, cleaned, lubed - nice job) while Mark picked up his pack (now repaired). Pretty good service for free!

We grabbed a shuttle back to the main vendor area, where I bought the "Heartfire" tent that I had been eyeing the day before - 1 pound, 10 ounces, pretty hard to beat that! All told, probably 5 pounds less on my back; worth it, despite the expense ($225). I'm hoping to be around 35 pounds now, about 10 - 12 pounds less than I started with on April 4th. We linked back up with Mark B. and Mel, and slowly toured the vendors again, and also greeted a few more familar faces. Finally got to the parking area, where Mark W. repacked all his gear into his pack, while I made a mid-day report on my digital recorder. Weather increasingly hot and humid, looking threatening, but no rain yet.

By noon we were done with the vendors, and slowly headed back through the town, heading towards the parade assembly area at the far end of town (near Cowboys). I hit the three outfitters in town, looking for the new Therm-a-Rest, which weighs about a half a pound less than what I have, and is 2 1/2 times thicker; unfortunately, no one had one in my size. I guess I'll try and pick one up later. Certainly the one I have will do for now, just as it has for going on 15 years now....

We finally ended up at Cowboys, where we all bought some cold drinks, and later got some free hot dogs nearby. Mark W. had a long chat with "James," a Double-H and Philmont staffer who knew Megan Wray from the previous summer [Aside - It really has been amazing how many conversations have been initiated by Mark wearing his Philmont Staff Shirt, both on the trail and in town.] Mark W. got the guy's personal details and promised to relay them to Megan.

At this point (about 1:00 or so), we sat down on the railroad ties outlining the Virginia Creeper Trail - hoping not to get run over by the dozens of Scouts that rode by over the next hour - and just took in the scene as the hikers began to assemble. Plenty of things to gawk at, with hikers wearing all sorts of strange attire, and arming themselves with water balloons and a variety of water guns, ranging from child-size squirt guns up to Super-Soakers and Indian pumps. Tops in the weird department was the German Shepherd whose hair had been trimmed into a Mohawk, followed by a guy who had shaved his head in the back and painted a white blaze on himself. One guy was dressed only in a large bandanna - a view best left to the reader's imagination. Next to us was the Through-Hiker Class of 2006, with a large banner, and many happy reunnions were going on.

The actual parade started around 2:10 - it was supposed to be organized by class (year), but in fact it was just sort of go place yourself wherever; Mark and I ended up about 2/3rds back. The start was two ambulances with sirens blaring, leading a slow march about a half a mile through the town. There were maybe a thousand hikers and about three thousand spectators. The water battles started immediately, with the hikers giving as good as they got for the first quarter-mile or so, then everytone ran out of ammo. Not so with the spectators! Mark and I didn't get all that wet, with the exception of one guy who got us with a garden hose on full blast. I will add this was all in good fun, everyone laughing and having a good time. Eventually we passed "our" B&B, and Mark and I waved and caught Suzie Montgomery's attention, thanking her one last time. Finally to the park, and the battle ended, with a fire truck bringing up the rear of the column. And blessed relief for all the cars that had been backed up on U.S. 58 for an hour or more. We linked up with Mark B. and Mel (I think they walked behind the fire truck), and made our way back through the vendor area one last time.

On the way we linked up with Gaucha, who we hadn't seen since the day after Blue Mountain Shelter - she was about 40 miles back at this point, but was still plugging away. We waved to a few others too; as I previously wrote, this was the "last hurrah" for many of the hikers, so also was our last opportunity to say farewell. Finally we reached Mark B.'s car, and after helping a few other cars get out or in, we were on our way back to Elk Garden, arriving at 3:45. Quite a difference from the riotous scenes in Damascus! We said our goodbyes, and headed up the hill at 4:00 on the nose, Mark B. and Mel departing for Arlington soon thereafter. A surprisingly easy hike up Mt. Rogers (the Virginia "high point.") We took the side-hike to the peak, which has zero view - the standard joke you ask people who climb Mt. Rogers is "How was the view?" Well, now I understand. Lots of clouds but (despite the forecast) still no signs of rain yet. Also no signs of any of the local wild ponies. Did the final quarter mile to the shelter (I think it's "Thomas Knob Shelter"); had about 8 people on the lower deck, but only one upstairs, "Cas," a female former Army M.P. There were also roughly 20 more people tenting in the area, over about a half-mile stretch of the A.T. Chilly again (doubtless due to the altitude and breeze), so we did a quick dinner by 8:00 pm. After getting some water from the spring, I went upstairs, but Mark stayed outside to write some postcards. It started raining (at last) around 9:30 or so, and rained hard on and off through the night - I was happy to be quite dry in the shelter attic area. 4 1/2 miles today, plus an extra mile for the side-hike to the peak - a good "nero."

Day 42 - Trail Days and Trail Magic

2009-05-16T15:34:00.000-04:00

Friday, 5/15 - (At the Virginia Inn at Marion, VA) Got up at 6:30; I quickly ran back over to the Magnusson for a final email check - none. So returned to the room and finished packing. At 7:30, Mark and I hit the Continental Breakfast again, this time with two other fellow hikers (who we had not seen before). At 8:10 Nat and Bill showed up, and we loaded our gear into the back of their SUV and headed off to Damascus. This time via I-81 S and U.S. 58, so a much less hair-raising ride than what we had faced coming down from Elk Garden two days ago! Surprisingly,there was very little vehicular or pedestrian traffic in town, and it was frankly hard to see where the "up to 25,000 people" estimate was coming from (I'm not seeing it). Nat and Bill stopped near the Montgomery B&B, and with the help of Blackbird (the sick hiker we assisted at Apple House), we got some photos under the Trail Days Banner. With that, Nat and Bill took off for another one of their hikes, with our grateful appreciation. We got permission from Suzie Montgomery to leave our packs on her front porch, which saved us a lot of aggravation for the day.

Once we transferred our gear over, Mark and I then headed down to the main vendor area, and did a full up and return sweep of all the booths. Lots of amazing stuff there, including a wide variety of ultralight sil-nyl tents - one of which I think I will almost certainly buy tomorrow (I'm deciding between two different models). We went through the area one more time, and then headed up to the "Tent City" area, where many hikers were tenting out. On the way, we passed some free food at the "Rock School" because of the very long lines there; as it turned out, they sold out there in about 15 minutes, so just as well that we didn't wait. At Tent City, there were still more vendors, including about a half a dozen who were offering various repair services for packs, hiking poles, boots, and so on.After checking out all the options, we headed back to the B&B, emptied our packs, and started back to Tent City.

I first stopped at the Mt. Rogers Outfitters to see if they had any replacement hip-belts and shoulder straps (they didn't), and also to price their lightest tents. But the guy adjusted my straps a bit, and it did seem to ride a bit easier when he was done. Then we headed back up to Tent City; Mark dropped off his pack (lift strap ripped out, shoulder strap going quickly too), while I dropped off my poles at the Leki tent. While Mark was checking out the other vendors, I also brought my pack to the "general gear repair" tent, where they further adjusted my various straps and re-sewed my hip belt, right there on the spot. I asked about my shoulder straps, but they felt that they were better left alone as opposed to having an abrasive line (from the thread) on my shoulders. One of the guys there worked at the Outdoor Center at Neel's Gap, and begged me for mypack as a "wall-hanger" for the store, if it made it to Maine - well, OK!

While at the vendor area, we saw a few of our fellow hikers that we knew, and still more as we headed back through the main vendor area, including many we hadn't seen in weeks. It was nice to catch up. However, we also learned of many people who were dropping out at Damascus, right after Trail Days. Heading back towards the B&B, we grabbed lunch at Quincey's. We tried Mark Barker's cell phone (he was coming down to meet us), but only got his voicemail. Then we split up for awhile - I headed back over and carefully reloaded my pack, making a few additional adjustments to the various straps. Mark checked out a few more in-town displays (don't have details). I also moved Mark's stuff a little more undercover, because the weather was looking a bit more threatening as the day wore on. Once I was happy that we were OK even if it rained hard, I headed back over to the library for a quick check of email and the blog. That only took a few minutes, and when I headed back to the B&B, Mark was reading a book and sunning himself. We tried to call Mark Barker's cell phone again, but only got his voicemail (again). Since it was getting on, we checked out the various programs being offered, and decided to hit a documentary on hiking the Continental Divide Trail (the CDT, running along the Rockies from the Mexican Border in NM to Glacier National Park in MT). This is of course one of the ones I am considering doing in some future year (or life). This was being shown at a Youth Ministry Center, and at least 100 hikers were in attendance. A very interesting film - and intimidating as hell - even given the propensity for the filmmakers to glamorize the difficulties, the CDT makes the AT look like a walk in the park. Hmmmmm....

Around 7:00 pm, Mark noted that I had turned my cell phone off (because no signal), so he took it outside, and got through to Mark Barker - they were already in Abingdon, at the Day's Inn, and had been there for about 30 minutes. So Mark W. had them come right away, and then came in to get me. Mark B. and Mel showed up about 25 minutes later, and we guided them to the B&B via cell phone. Despite the long drive, both seemed very happy to see us. After meeting and greetings were over, we loaded up our packs and returned to Abingdon, where Mark B. had brought some trail magic of his own - a grill and a cooler filled with ribs, hamburgers, hot dogs, beer, and soda. And so we had a very pleasant barbecue right there in the parking lot, running up til about 9:45 pm or so. Once we cleaned up, we headed back to our respective rooms, and hit the rack around 10:30 or so. Weather Channel showed a lot of thunderstorms all around southwest Virginia, but we were spared all day, and all night. Thanks much to Mark B. and Mel for their thoughtfulness - way above the call of duty. Another day of rest for Mark W.'s leg; he's feeling better.

Day 41 - Still off the Trail, but Good News!

2009-05-15T13:48:00.004-04:00

Thursday, May 14th - Got up at 6:45, and drafted up a list of things that I wanted Marco to send with Mark Barker if possible. We grabbed the Continental Breakfast in the hotel lobby at 7:30. Beautiful day - blue skies, warm - it figures, hmmmm?

At 8:15 Mark headed off to the hospital while I headed over to the Magnusson Hotel to do some blog reports. Sent my list to Marco, then did two blog reports - had to do the second one (for 5/13) twice, because it vanished into thin air just as I was finishing it up. Arrrgh! Mark returned around 10:30 - GOOD NEWS! - the pain is only an "overuse" issue, and the doctor at the hospital recommended some Icy/Hot treatments, ibuprofen, and 3 - 4 days of rest. The latter we're getting anyway.... Unfortunately Mark bought Advil PM instead of Advil, so we'll have to go back to the pharmacy to trade that in - sleepwalking on the A.T. is not recommended! Mark read his email, let folks know the news, and we also noted the local controversy about Goshen being selected for the National Jamboree (big news here in southwestern Virginia, even though it's about a hundred miles from Marion). At 11:00, Mark returned to the hotel, while I finished up some blog reports. We're off to lunch in a few. Bottom line, looks like we're off the trail for 4 days, but then we can continue.

Returned to the hotel just after noon, and had a message from Nat and Bill regarding dinner. I returned a voicemail confirming 8:00 pm at Mi Puerta, or any other place of their choice if they preferred. Mark and I then hit the Pizza Hut lunch buffet, taking our time, then returned to Walgreens to exchange Mark's Advil PM for regular Advil. He also picked up a jar of "Blue EMU," another topical joint and muscle treatment which has been recommended to us by several hikers. We decided against picking up any additional food or supplies, since we'll still likely make Troutdale within 2 days of returning to the trail, and will also likely receive various free food items at Trail Days tomorrow and Saturday.

Back at the hotel, I hand washed yesterday's hiking clothing, then laid them in the sun outside, on a bush. Also watched a bit of "Death Wish" (the original), but didn't get too wrapped up in it. Instead, I headed back over to the Magnusson to type up some additional blog reports for 5/9 and 5/10. Got a return call from Nat around 5:30 confirming that they were off the trail, and would meet us at the hotel at 8:00 pm. I continued typing until roughly 6:30 or so, then headed back across the street. Pulled in my laundry and made a few phone calls, including a long one to my brother Tom, filling him in on why we wouldn't be on the trail for a few days, and to find out how he was doing now that he was back to work again (he sounds absolutely thrilled; uh huh....) Hung out til 8:05, when Nat and Bill showed up. They were still OK with Mi Puerta, so we drove down (one block), and had a very enjoyable dinner and chat, running til about 9:20 or so. They agreed to pick us up at 8:00 am tomorrow morning and take us to Damascus, where we'll eventually link up with Mark Barker and Mel Hermann sometime late afternoon or evening. These guys have truly been a life-saver for us - as I said yesterday, "real" Trail Magic, far more helpful than food and drinks, and just when we needed it most. Mark and I have really benefitted from a number of fortuitous Trail Magics, none more so than these past 30 hours or so. We walked back, Mark to the hotel and me back to the Magnusson to check my email (no new emails) and finish this report (now about 10:00 pm). We'll both mostly pack up tonight so we're ready tomorrow, and will have time to hit the Continental breakfast again. I am hoping that Marco can link up with Mark Barker tonight, and relay my stuff to him before he leaves. If not, not a crisis - I can have him mail it to me up the trail, probably at Adkins (our next stop after Troutdale, I think....)

Mark's leg is feeling much better, hopefully a recovery that will last. Three more days of no hiking and hotel stays will doubtless make a big difference. That's it for tonight.
- Bob

Day 40 - Off the Trail with Fingers Crossed

2009-05-15T12:15:00.003-04:00

(2nd Effort. Much to my aggravation, the first one disappeared just as I was finishing it. Arrgh.)

Got up at 6:00, but Mark requested another half an hour, so we lounged 'til then before actually rousing. 48 degrees, high moderate overcast with a watery sun, still a chilly breeze blowing. Quick breakdown and on the trail by 6:55 - our fastest departure to date. Of the 7 people around the ponds, we were the first out. We were intending to do either 16 or 21 miles to a shelter. If we could make 21 miles, that would make the hike to Troutdale (Dickey Gap) around 16.5 miles, enabling us to get in on Thursday late afternoon. Otherwise we'll have to really hustle on Friday morning, to make the shuttle back to Trail Days in Damascus.

Breakfast after an hour on the trail. Various ups and down to VA 601 (or 608?), then a very long uphill to Whitetop Mtn, which is Virginia's 2nd highest point. Quite windy on the southern face that we were climbing - 15 - 30 mph. Most of the upper mountain was an old orchard, maybe apples. Finally made it to Buzzard Rock (or Rocks), offering some great views (Pete - sent a photo of this earlier today - got it - see above). Very windy here. Whitetop Mtn is poorly named - the actual peak is quite dark, almost black, due to a thick grove of evergreens, either hemlocks or spruces. Looks a little like Black Mountain at Philmont. The trail did not go over the actual peak, but rather around it to the right. There was an access side trail to the peak, but since we were trying to make 21 miles, and it didn't look like there'd be any view anyway, we passed on climbing to the peak.

This part of the trail was the roughest we had seen so far in VA, rocky and uneven, and Mark starting experiencing sharp pain in his left quadriceps, which got worse and worse as we headed downhill off the mountain. By the time we reached Elk Park (VA 600), he stopped and said he couldn't go any further. So we took an hour break at a campsite just off the parking lot there, and I massaged his quad and surrounding area, twice, to see if that would help. Several other hikers passed us during this time. We started up again on the climb to Mt. Rogers, but within five minutes Mark said "No Go," so we returned back to the park, intending to hitch back to Damascus or Abingdon, or at worst camping in place off the parking lot. Fortunately a guy who had just passed us (also heading back downhill) turned out to be an ATC member, and he offered us a ride to VA 58 - a good thing, because VA 600 was a sparsely travelled road, with scant opportunities to get a hitch back to any town. This guy (Nat; trail name Natty Bumpo) was doing short day hikes with his brother in law (Bill Norris) - Bill drove up to the peaks and walked down, while Nat climbed up to the peaks and drove down. So Nat was doing the climb to Whitetop, but would give us a lift as soon as he drove back down. Now that's "real" trail magic!

So we hung out, eventually putting on our rain gear against the chill and wind - the day finally got very nice - clear blue skies with a few fluffy clouds - but it was still pretty cold. Another group of 3 (including Captain Caveman, plus a dog) came down and also tried to hitch in; no luck there. I checked the parking lot kiosk and saw there was a hospital in Marion, which is where Nat and Bill were staying, at Hungry Mother State Park (in their RV). After about an hour and a half, Nat returned, and agreed that it made sense to take us to Marion. Since Bill was still on the trail, Nat then took the other group down to US 58. He returned about 20 minutes later, and we loaded up, literally one minute before Bill showed up. And so we headed off to Marion on 600, 58, and 16, all three very sharply descending, windy roads. Nat and Bill were very friendly, and we enjoyed the ride, chatting about various issues about the trail.

In Marion, we eventually settled on the Virginia House Motor Inn, nice place and not too pricey, plus fairly close to various restaurants and other useful places (pharmacy, WalMart, etc.) We got Nat's and Bill's c.p. #'s, and offered to treat them to dinner the next night, which they accepted (they chose a Mexican place near the hotel). After moving to our room, we quickly headed off to eat at the Pioneer, because it allegedly closed within the hour (it was 7:10 or so), but it fact they closed at 2:30 because of the recession. So we hit the only oher close place, the Mexican restaurant (Mi Puerta), in deference to Mark's leg - he was still hurting. Decent food. That took us till about 8:45, at which point Mark went back to the room and I headed off to the Magnusson Hotel across the street, which has courtesy Internet for the patrons of the Virginia Inn. Sent some brief emails to Pete and Pauline letting them know of our situation, then headed back to the Inn. Grabbed a much-needed shower, then called Marco and discussed various house issues. Hit the rack around 10:00, but Mark stayed up for Sports Center and some other programs. Plan is to see how a night of rest helps - or not - and then hit the hospital first thing tomorrow morning, while I do some blog reports at the Magnusson.

So, turned into another semi-nero, 11 miles and Whitetop Mtn. done, but obviously we are both very concerned about whether Mark can continue. Our fingers are crossed!
- Bob

Day 39 - Damascus & Drying Out

2009-05-14T10:44:00.001-04:00

Tuesday, May 12th - Got up at 7:20 or so to clear skies overhead, mountains still sheathed in fog, pretty cool yet. Got our laundry together and headed up the street to "Cowboys" - a combination restaurant and mini-mart. The laundromat was across the street, so after ordering breakfast I headed over and started our laundry. Priciest laundromat on the trail so far, but beggars can't be choosey, and we'd soon be personna non grata in the entire state if we didn't wash our stuff. We're pretty rank, so you pay the freight whatever it is.

At Cowboys, Mark got the Hiker's Special, but I stayed with pancakes, and gave the third one to Mark to augment the Special (which in reality wasn't all that much food, though it was cheap enough). We chatted with a local who had some knowledge of upcoming towns and crossings, learning about possible shuttles back to Damascus from the Troutdale area (where we plan to be in 3 days, when Trail Days gets fired up). I went back to the laundromat to switch our stuff to a dryer, then back to Cowboys. Other hikers showed up, and I spent a few minutes getting additional numbers entered into my new phone, including Gary's.

After about 1 1/2 hours, we both headed back to the laundromat and finished up there, then returned to the B&B, stopping several times to chat with other hiker groups we knew. Once back, Mark headed off to the Mt. Rogers Outfitters for fuel, then to the Post Office. I gathered my gear off the clothesline, re-sorted the rest of my laundry, packed, and moved everything to the front porch to free up the room. At 10:45 I headed back over to the library, but their Internet was down, so I returned to the B&B just as Mark was finishing up his repacking. We both weighed our packs, and came in almost identically, around 38 pounds each, with water and 3 days of food; not bad, but I suspect we'll be below 35 each when we lose the last of our cold weather gear; at least I hope! We both need to pay closer attention to how much food we have - so far we've pulled into each resupply point with a day or two (or more) of food remaining, and that's just weight for no purpose other than exercise. And I think we're getting enough exercise already!

We saddled up at 11:20 and headed to the end of town, where we ate lunch at a Subways. Then back to the trail (12:30 or so), which for the first mile was along the Virginia Creeper Trail (a rather famous bike trail down here). We promptly missed the turn-off for the actual A.T. (no double blaze!!!), so lost 20 minutes figuring that out and getting back where we belonged. At least it was a beautiful day by this point, clear and cool. We humped over two pretty stiff mountains, but it was considerably easier - the trails in VA are (in general) much nicer than in GA, NC, or TN - better graded, wider, and with more switchbacks. They have their rough spots, but it's so far easy to see why people say that the AT gets a lot easier once you reach VA.

We arrived at our intended destination (Saunders Shelter) at 5:00 pm, and met Frebird coming out just as we got to the access (side) trail. He indicated that there was a campsite with water another 2 miles down the trail, and since it was only 5 pm, we decided to continue on and make tomorrow's hike 18 or 23 miles planned) that much shorter. So we climbed yet another minor mountain peak (not bad since we were already up on the ridge anyway), then down to a gap, getting to the site at 6:15. Nice site under large white pines, reasonably flat. However, the water was from two rather stagnant looking ponds, which were unappealing, so I headed uphill past the upper pond and found the actual source, much better looking. Judging from the various trails, most people were taking water from the ponds, so maybe it's not so surprising how many people have been coming up sick these past 3 - 4 weeks. As I've mentioned before, a lot of A.T. Thru-Hikers could use about 2 years in the Boy Scouts; they'd be a hell of a lot better at basic camping skills.

It got chilly pretty quick once the sun went behind the mountains, so we ate dinner fairly quickly, hung the bear-bags, got a little cleaned up, and hit the rack around 8:30 or so. Freebird and another couple (Bark and Berry) shared the site with us, and there were two other single campers on the other side of the ponds. 11 miles today, in another semi-nero; not bad.

Day 38 - Rain and into Virginia

2009-05-14T10:36:00.003-04:00

Monday, May 11th - Sent from the public library in Damascus, far southwest Virginia. After my report last night, it did in fact start raining again at 2:45am, arriving sudden and fairly hard. Lucky we had the warning from the weather band radio (and battened down the hatches before bedding down) or we'd have had a lot of wet gear before we could have gotten everything under cover. Rained on and off til about 7 am. We got up at 6:25, hit the trail about 7:05. It had been forecast to be an eventually sunny day, but in fact it was dreary, misty, and drizzley all day (still gray here at 5:30 pm). We had a much easier trail today, and it showed, as we covered 13 miles in just under 5 hours, including our breaks. That's our fastest speed yet on the trek. Means we hiked 50 miles in 2 1/2 days; not bad. Only real highlight on the trail is we crossed from Tennessee to Virginia at about 10:30 am. No state boundary there, other than a thin line of rocks, plus a sign indicating that we were entering the Mt. Rogers Recreation Area/Thomas Jefferson National Forest. I guess we were expecting more, like sunshine, birds singing, bands playing, pretty girls with laurels, you know (dream on -- not trail magic, but trail delusions?) .... Well, just more drizzle and mist, but nonetheless we're now in our 4th state, and past the 1/5th mark of the trek (roughly 470miles). And I suppose you could say we're now "home," even if it'sprobably 350 miles to Arlington from here.

Damascus - we reserved a room at the Montgomery B&B, very nice place.A little pricey, but all the less expensive lodging has been snapped upby other hikers planning to spend the week here for the upcoming annualTrail Days festival (60,000 people expected in a town with a populationof about 5,000). We will probably return for a day later this week,probably coming back from Troutdale, our next resupply point.

Did lunch at a Pizza Plus all-you-can-oink buffet, then bought food ata Food City. I personnally barely needed anything, having overboughtat Wal-Mart 3 days ago. Hit the Post Office for Mark's latest pickup(maps of VA), then the Mt. Rogers Outfitters (just a look-see), on theway back to the B&B. Hung some of my stuff on their clothes line(hopefully the rain is now over), and headed over to the library tocheck email (one each from Pete Davey and Pauline Clark). We'replanning at eating dinner at a nearby restaurant, Quincy's. I am stilllosing weight, and am now around 150 pounds. But the rate of loss hasdramatically slowed since I started forcing myself to eat more despitemy appetite saying "enough already!" Tomorrow we'll probably have anearly lunch and head on out immediately afterwards, doing 9 miles tothe first shelter north of town. So another sort of reverse "nero,"though 9 miles is not a trivial walk, and there are some very toughclimbs over the next three days, including Mt. Rogers, the VirginiaHigh Point, which we'll do this Wednesday afternoon. We hope to meetMark Barker and Mel Herrmann this Friday at Trail Days - it will benice to see some friendly faces from back home. Time to go!

Rest of report for 5/11:
The weather began to improve rapidly, to clear skies - quite a change. After reviewing the Weather Channel reports, I decided to put my various still wet items outside on the clothes line, including my tent, tarp, boots, and so on; this was around 6 pm or so. Mark followed suit shortly thereafter. Hopefully this will save us 1 or 2 pounds of weight tomorrow (wet stuff is heavy!) Once that was done, everyone in the house (including Gary (Happy), Jonathan Mauer (Blacklist, a former Life Scout from Troop 991 in Springfield), and Freebird (don't know his actual name) went over to Quincey's restaurant for dinner, also enjoying a duo playing a guitar and a fiddle; not bad). Dinner was very enjoyable, talking about the various oddball personalities we had run across since starting the trip. One of the sad things was how many people were dropping off the trail here, or at least so stating. We learned of dropouts at the grocery store, at the library, and even on the street, including many people we had been leapfrogging with for weeks. In some cases the money had run out, in others the enthusiasm was gone - maybe not surprising with all the atrocious weather over the past 6 weeks. Other people had been yellow-striping and/or slack-packing, another 2 clear signs of giving up. Trail Days has a big "Hiker Parade" on either Friday or Saturday, and so everyone so inclined can kind of take their bows to the cheering thousands and head on home. At 475 miles or so, nothing to be ashamed of. We spent about an hour and a half at dinner, then headed back to continue sorting gear. I hit the rack around 9 pm, but Mark stayed downstairs to watch the house TV, some Clark Gable movie on TCM, then something on the History Channel I think he said. I slept "OK" - as I think I mentioned to Pete on the phone a couple of weeks ago, a bed now seems a bit strange and uncomfortable to sleep in, compared to tent living.
- Bob

Day 37 - Nearing Virginia

2009-05-13T13:56:00.000-04:00

Sunday, May 10th - Had a few spritzes of rain overnight. Got up at 6:30 am, 48 degrees,
windy, but reasonably clear overhead. We were tent camping on a saddle on a side trail several hundred yards down from the VanderLeer Shelter, which had been full when we arrived yesterday. The trail led another 200 yards further down to a water source, which I had
struggled down and back up from the previous night. Four other people camped on the saddle with us, one solo guy and a trio of girls (The Birds) in a 3-man tent. Not the safest campers we had seen, but having a fire the night before kept them safe despite cooking meals in their tents and hanging their bear bags over their tents.

We got going about 7:10 or so, with the long climb back up to the shelter being a tough start to the day. No one had left the shelter or surrounding area yet by the time we passed, so we're first out again. Found a plastic canteen about a half mile up the trail, and carried it (empty) in hopes of reunification, but alas, that never happened (we ended up leaving it in the Hiker's Box at the Mt. Rogers Outfitters in Damascus the next day). At 8:30 we stopped at a nice overlook for breakfast, could STILL see Lake Watauga - the thing is huge, we've been passing it now for 2 days. Had 4 bars on the phone - doubtless there's a c.p. tower somewhere above the lake - so I made a bunch of phone calls, including to my parents to wish my mom a Happy Mother's Day, and also to Pete Davey to let him know that I was back online again (as it were). Mark also called his mom and wife Brenda, and we finally made reservations at a B&B in Damascus (the Montgomery Homestead). We were lucky to get even that, as all the less expensive accommodations were already locked up for the entire week by people zeroing in Damascus right through Trail Days.

After about an hour we continued on, under bright, sunny skies, our best day in quite a while. The trail here was also much better than we had seen almost since starting the trek. Ate lunch at a memorial (possibly the gravesite???) of a well-known hermit who had resided here in the late 1800's/early 1900's; he died in 1923, and the memorial was erected in 1925. [Sorry, I have forgotten the name. -Ed. - His name was Nick Grindstaff, or 'Nick the Hermit'] This guy apparently made a fortune out west in the 1800's, was robbed of every penny, and returned to this area to live out his life in total seclusion. He was 72 years old. The memorial was built into the original chimney of his house. The rather stark epitaph read: "He lived alone; he suffered alone; and he died alone." I think I'll pass on that life-choice, thanks anyway...

Continued on past 2 shelters, both empty - we were trying for the Abingdon Shelter, 23 miles in, only 10 miles from Damascus. It is very small (5 spaces), so we had no expectation of sheltering there, but rather knew we'd have to tent camp. But it would be a water source, anyway. Passed several roads as we hiked, but no trail magic today, even though it was a Sunday - I guess we're getting greedy now after all the luck we've had with weekend Trail Magics. At one road crossing we found a hiking companion, Salty Dog (John); he was linking up with relatives for lunch. His cell phone (Sprint) didn't work there, so I let him use mine, and he was able to confirm his location with them (in fact they showed up just as we were leaving).

Another long climb after that, then rolling country to the first of several occupied campsites, which we continued past. We decided to fill up on water at a creek along the way in case we preferred or had to stop before we made the shelter. We finally ran out of energy around 7:00 pm, and took an unoccupied site about 3 miles short of the Abingdon shelter. And again, we expected the shelter and nearby tent sites to be a zoo anyway. So a 20 mile day, not bad, and "only" a 13 mile semi-nero to Damascus tomorrow. And also about 10 miles to the TN/VA border. After setting up and eating dinner, Mark turned on the weather band radio, and we were both stunned to hear that (despite the nearly clear skies overhead) we had a 70% chance of rain after midnight. So we completed a full camp setup, and once again battened down the hatches and got everything under cover. As it turned out, it started raining around 2:45 am, arriving suddenly and fairly hard. I must say, this rain sure is getting old! But as the saying goes: "No Pain, No Rain, No Maine." Well, we've had plenty of the first two so far!
- Bob

Day 36 - Wading the Appalachian Trail

2009-05-13T13:12:00.000-04:00

Saturday, May 9th - Got up at 6:00 am to again check my email at the Hiker Kitchen, but
could not log on (found out later that Marco had used the wrong password the previous night, so I was locked out of my account til he fixed it). Did check weather.com, and saw that we had a large line of rain and thunderstorms coming at us, looking like it would arive around 8:30 or so. It was rather dismal looking outside, so it seemed rain was a certainty (again, sigh). At 6:45 I returned to our "cabin," and Mark and I finished packing up. I also finished boxing up the rest of our un-needed gear, and left it in the room with $15 cash for Brady to mail to my house at his leisure. All together, probably 5 pounds less stuff for us to carry.

Left around 7:40, and headed down for the trail magic at the "brown house by the A.T." In fact, we were the first to arrive, at 7:50 or so, but they were already ready for us. Quite a spread, with pancakes, bacon, hot muffins, fresh fruit, coffee, sodas, etc. One of the servers turned out to be the same guy that sold Mark his A.T. maps at Harper's Ferry last March; small world.... They were planning on serving three meals, all day long. Within 10 minutes about 30 people from the Kicora Hostel showed up, plus a few more straggled in from various nearby campsites. Oddly enough, many people were reverse hiking or slack-packing today, getting a shuttle out past Pond Mountain and returning for a second meal at the Trail Magic and another cheap night ($4) at Kicora. A few indicated they were going to stay at the Trail Magic all day (which I personally think is rather abusing the privilege). We left at 8:30 or so, with thank you's all around, and headed back out on the trail.

Very interesting walk - along the Laurel Fork creek, through some small gorges cut by the creek eons ago, past a really impressive waterfall, and along a creekside trail that was two foot or less wide, the cliff to one side and the creek on the other. Also past some neat flowering plants; some with very unusual colors. Then a very long uphill up Pond Mountain, pretty tough, especially near the top. Many of the slack-packers passed us on the way back to the Trail Magic (hustling right along, I will add). Grabbed lunch on top, with a partial view of Watauga Lake, a huge
TVA project lake. Since we had 2-3 bars, I went ahad and activated the new phone, and added the hundred dollar card while I was at it - but made no phone calls yet.

Headed down to Watauga Lake, where we ran into intermittent showers and an unexpected surprise to find that the trail was under water in about a half a dozen places. We managed to work around some of them, but in the end we switched our boots with our camp shoes and waded two stretches, the first of which was about 30-40 feet and up to my thighs. Sure wish I had thought to get THAT on camera: "Wading the Appalachian Trail" as the caption. Should have brought a fly rod. Took about an hour and a half to walk what should have taken 15 minutes - the hairiest part was avoiding the extensive poison ivy and briars during the workarounds. I think the local ATC has some work to do here....

Finally worked around to the Watauga Lake shelter (which we bypassed), and started climbing up to the dam, reaching it within about 20 minutes. Very impressive spot; we grabbed a few photos as we crossed over it on an access road. Then we had a VERY long uphill, tough going, to get up to the ridgeline again. Intermiitent rain and drizzle, very humid - quite a slog. We didn't bother with raingear, due to the humidity and still fairly high temperatures. I think Mark said it was about 7 miles of mostly uphill, with about a 3,000 foot elevation gain net; it took us almost 5 hours to finish it. Got plenty of great bird's eye views of the lake along the way. We did 17 1/2 miles getting to the Vandervaleer Shelter. The shelter turned out to be full, and the few campsites nearby were also taken (the ridgeline was quite narrow here), but the people there told us that there was a decent tentsite down about 300 yards along the trail to the water source, so we backtracked about a hundred yards and headed down a very steep and slick trail, and found the site, in a saddle on a connector ridge. Two tents already there, with a fire sort of going, but (barely) enough room for the two of us as well. The water turned out to be another 200 yards further down the draw, on an even steeper trail. I took care of that chore for both of us, and it took almost 25 minutes. Misty, increasingly windy, and chilly in the saddle, plus we were out of daylight, so it was a hurried setup and dinner, and a late bearbag. Amazingly, our fellow campers (a solo guy and a trio of girls) were cooking in their tents, and after waiting too long decided against hanging their bear bags at all (they WERE going to hang them above our tents at one point, til Mark said "I don't think so!") Fortunately the fire smell kept us all safe, despite their carelessness. In the tents around 9:15 or so. Long day!
- Bob

Day 35 - Phone Issues

2009-05-12T09:00:00.005-04:00

Friday, May 8th, 5:55pm - I am sending this from a computer in Dennis Cove TN. I bought another phone at Walmart today, plus a hundred dollar card. Unfortunately no
service here so can't activate yet. Am charging up, and will attempt to activate tomorrow, and will call you if successful. I understand from Gary Alexander that my original phone has not yet arrived at your house. If still correct please call the Holiday Inn Express in Erwin, TN, and see if it ever went out. I suppose UPS may not have made a delivery there, and so they are still hanging on it. Who knows. At this point, the phone should be mailed to me at Troutdale, VA, which is the next resupply point after Damascus. We should be there in about a week.
I will try to get back on this computer late tonight or tomorrow morning very early. If you get this message please respond, and include the phone number for the faculty voicemail, so I can start sending updates again.
All is well here, but Mark and I are getting very tired of rain, rain, and more rain. Just our luck, it seems it's the wettest year in quite some time, at least according to the locals here. We finished 400 miles yesterday, and expect to be in Virginia (Damascus) late Monday or midday Tuesday. We're hoping VA will be a bit easier and drier than NC and TN. Seeya....
- Bob

Apologies ...

2009-05-12T08:56:00.002-04:00

Folks,

My apologies. A combination of an emergency appendectomy for me and Bob's phone dying has backed up the reporting on this blog severely. Will endeavor to catch up over the next 3 or 4 days. Reports may not always be in order as a result!

Day 21 - Past Charlie's Bunion & through the heart of the Smokies

2009-04-24T14:26:00.000-04:00

Friday, April 24th - (At the Grand Prix Hotel in Gaitlinburg) Up at 6:30, and quickly finished packing up. Headed over for an all-you-could-oink buffet at 7:00, but they didn't open til 8:00, so we ended up at a pancake house instead (which was more than enough food). Back at the hotel by 8:15, and we moved our gear down to the parking lot. Our shuttle arrived at 8:30, but we held a bit longer for a fellow hiker ("Happy") to join us; we had briefly met him up on Clingmans Dome two days before, and (I think) he nero'd and then zero'd at the hotel while Mark and I were overnighting at Mt. Collins Shelter. That held us up til about 8:45, then we headed back up the hill to New Found Gap, arriving around 9:15 or so.

It was already mostly sunny and quite warm at the parking lot - 70 degrees. A large pack of high school students (with a few adult chaperones) were assembling as we got our gear together, and took off en masse north on the AT - presumably they were heading to Charlie's Bunion, a well known overlook about 4 miles up the trail. We followed about 10 minutes later, quickly catching various subgroups who couldn't keep up. Then the rest came back down, again en masse, after about an hour - way too soon for them to have made Charlie's Bunion, so I'm kind of mystified as to exactly what they were doing (or maybe they just gave up?) Certainly they were minimally equipped to hike more than a couple of miles (sneakers and sandals, no water, etc.)

The trails today were a bit more reasonable, not as steep, and only a couple of nasty rocky sections. We leapfrogged with several small day-hiking groups, including an older couple from Maine who were very enthused about our attempt to through-hike. We bypassed Icewater Shelter, then arrived at Charlie's Bunion - accessed via a side trail - just after 11:00 am, sharing the rock with one of the day-hiking groups (and 15 minutes later, with Happy). The overlook offered an excellent view of Mt. LeConte and also of the valley some three or four thousand feet below. We spent about 30 minutes there, relaxing, grabbing some snacks and water, and taking a couple of photos.

Moving on, we again ended up hiking the ridgeline spine that marked the NC/TN border, one foot in each state. It was also a vertigo inspiring trail in long stretches, with the crest varying from 6 - 8 feet wide, with nearly clifflike 75 - 90 degree dropoffs to both sides - like you were walking a knife-edge. Great views to both sides, of course. After bypassing a side trail to Pecks Corner Shelter (located way off the AT), we hit several peaks, including Mt. Sequoia and Mt. Chapman (both over 6,000 feet again), once again "climbing back into winter." [For whatever it's worth, Mt. Sequoia was the one tenth of the way to Katahdin tic-mark.]

It clouded up a bit in the afternoon, and we got a few sprinkles - but nothing serious, just the peaks scrubbing some moisture out of the passing lines of clouds. One of the oddities of the hike was the cell phone coverage - we were looking to try and make a reservation for an upcoming hostel, and routinely had 3 and 4 bars - but no connectivity. As best as I can figure, the phone is measuring the total signal strength from multiple towers, none of which were strong enough to connect. Well, we'll try again tomorrow.

Finally pulled into Tricorner Knob Shelter - reputedly the most secluded shelter along the AT within the Great Smokies National Park. We were a bit surprised to find over a dozen people already there, including a local ATC Ridgerunner - I guess we had caught the tail end of yesterday's hikers. Only one guy we semi-recognized. The shelter had a large tarp stretch across its open face, so the inside was well sheltered from the wind. The number of people was a problem for us, because a certain number of spots were reserved for non-through-hikers, and Mark and I were over the limit *if* all the folks with reservations showed up. So we had a choice - tent camp at a horse corral about a quarter mile away, or push on another 7 miles to the next shelter (and it was mighty late for that). [As I previously noted, in the Smokies you are required by law to stay at or nearby the shelters.] Even though the horse corral was supposed to be decent (and flat), it certainly didn't appeal - I've camped in similar spots at Philmont, several times, and found it less than pleasant. But we were about ready to bite the bullet (or tiptoe through the horse apples, if you prefer) when we got a break - a couple with reservations came in and told the Ridgerunner that they preferred to tent camp (in fact they insisted). So we got inside after all. Unexpected, but we'll take it - the skies had cleared by this point, and it was quickly getting nippy again with a steady breeze blowing. As expected at 6,000 feet. A bit later Happy arrived, and we enjoyed eating dinner together (the Ridgerunner allowed him inside, too, as the last reservation holders never showed). A few more people came in, but elected to tent. After dinner I chatted up the Ridgerunner for awhile, then hit the rack at dusk. So, 16 miles today, not bad. The end of our third week on the trail. And pretty good weather, hard to believe. All in all, probably our best overall day since we started the trek.

Day 10 - A Repeat, then a Reprieve

2009-04-15T15:18:00.005-04:00

Monday, April 13th, 8:52pm - "This is Bob. (You'd think he'd know that I can figure that out by now ...) I am going to simultaneously talk into the phone and the recorder at the same time, so here goes. We are in the Sapphire Inn in Franklin, NC. I mentioned in yesterday's blurb that we were going to go to a shelter about 4 miles away from the road crossing and then do a nero to the crossing on Tuesday and take a shuttle to town.

Turns out that today was almost as completely miserable as it was on Easter Saturday. That day was really horrible and today was a Pete and Repeat (no offense to you personally, Pete) (none taken). It was a very misty, cold, nasty day with fabulous views of TOTAL GRAY. It did not get out of the 30's all day long. Unbelievable! But before I get into all of that ...

Last night we stayed in a shelter. there were 5 of us, so it was reasonably roomy. We knew 2 of the other 3, and met the third one. No one else came, which was amazing. Rain was predicted after midnight, and at 12:15 on the dime the skies opened up and it just poured. We had 3 sessions of extremely heavy rain with heavy wind blowing rain everywhere. We were in the shelter and still got misted because we are not completely under cover. But I am glad I was in the shelter and not the tent, because it came down in buckets.

This morning we woke up at 7 and it was blowing and nasty. We weren't going anywhere fast. Then, after about 30 minutes, we decided to get going. We packed up and checked our waterproofness (is that a word?). We left at 8:20. Rain was predicted all day, but in fact all we really got was tree drip - that condition where the trees themselves are colder than the air and the branches condense the water onto them, which then drop on us. It's not real rain - false rain or tree drip is what I call it. It was extremely windy and cold - we struggled all day.

We did have some interesting tic marks today. We passed the 100 mile point - only 2078 to go! The trail was very well graded with the exception of Albert Mountain which was insanely difficult. It was almost technical rock climbing - difficult enough in full packs, but even worse in full packs with mud and water on everything. Mark fell once, fortunately forward, with no ill effects. It was at least a 45 degree grade, maybe sharper. Took us a while to beat our way through that. Beyond that the trail was fairly well graded and we really ate up the ground today. I guess after 10 days on the trail we are finally getting trail hardened. At one point Mark measured our land speed at over 2.5 mph!

We had another little bit of Trail Magic at one of the gaps today. Someone had hiked in over two miles and hung plastic Easter eggs from the tree limbs using fishing line. In each one was candy, like a Hershey's bar or Sweet Tarts.It was great. Here you have a day that absolutely blows and you come across this. It had an amazing uplifting effect. Other hikers came by while we were there and they loved it to. After chatting, we pulled out and headed to the next shelter - the one 4 miles from the crossing. But there was a problem with the design of this shelter, because it opened to the west, not the east. All the other shelters opened to the east so their backs were to the west where most of the weather comes from. It was wet inside. We looked it over, and said, no, we don't think so. I headed 150 yards up the trail to get a cell signal and called a place in town. They were booked, but suggested the Sapphire Inn. We called there and got the last double. We arranged to be picked up - 5pm was the latest they could do. I hustled back to Mark and said 'Let's book!' We left at 2:45, making tracks for the crossing. We felt bad leaving the other people at the shelter, and left with apologies knowing they were going to spend another nasty night cold and wet and miserable. We decided to press on and gut out another 4 because we still felt pretty solid. We were cold and had put up with tree drip, walking in clouds and blowing wind all day. I was feeling slightly nauseous which is a danger sign for me personally. So we pounded out the last 4 miles of a 16 mile day (our longest yet). We only had one mountain to go over. We made the crossing by 4:15, covering 4 miles in about 1.5 hours. Called the lady and she agreed to come pick us up early - we had just caught her. She showed up at 4:35 in a tiny Ford Fiesta. In the meantime, another hiker had come down (John) and had called and got the last single at the Inn. He had thought about camping out, but bit the bullet and wanted to get warm. So here we were - three hikers and our gear all trying to fit into this Fiesta. It was tight. Mark and John had the packs on their laps, and I had her laundry on my lap. She took off down this Georgia mountain - oops, I mean North Carolina mountain (my faux pas) at about 70mph in this wildly overloaded Fiesta. It was a hair raising ride.

We got to the motel and hung out in the office for 45 minutes drying out while they cleaned our room. We watched the weather radar and saw that another line of storms was coming in tonight and again tomorrow. With that, we started planning for a zero day on Tuesday - essentially a day where we stay put. It will give us a chance to work out our aches and pains - we are both over 50, you know- and today was a haul. So the planned nero day becomes a zero day.

We hit the Mexican restaurant across the street called Mi Casa. It was a welcome full meal after skimpy rations for the last few days. Pushing ahead cost us time to eat so we skipped a few meals. Foolish on our part, but we didn't want to miss our ride and the hospitality of the person who was meeting us.

It's funny. Saturday sucked, Sunday was wonderful and today was horrible, but we have done 100+ miles (106.8, actually), had some great Trail Magic, and now have the chance to rest our aching bones. The day off will be good. We can't overreach early! By this time over 50% of the thru-hikers have dropped out. They just didn't know what they were getting into. Even Mark and I were surprised with the intensity of the hiking and the range of weather that we have seen. Our experience made the difference, but others don't have that luxury.

Tomorrow there is a free pancake breakfast in town at a local church for hikers. I'm sure we'll hit that! I'll send some pictures, and maybe I'll call you tomorrow, and maybe I won't!

Day 9 - Easter, and a Bit of Trail Magic!

2009-04-15T14:24:00.007-04:00

Easter Sunday, April 12th, 7pm "I am sitting on a log at the Carter Gap Shelter - well shelters, as there are two of them here. I am watching the sun go down. It was an amazing day today.

As I said last night, yesterday was a stinky day - cold and misty, no more than a 5 second glimpse of the sun all day long. Cold last night too - 33 degrees with high humidity and wind that was just flat out bone chilling. Got up at 6:45 this morning to a beautiful clear sky. Last night we had an interesting experience. Three times we heard a single coyote howl. A lone howler is unique - they usually howl in packs while hunting. This solo howler even got close one time - about 150 yards. Had owls last night too. And one of the dogs gave a single bark at 4:30 to something. We don't know what it was but it must have vamoosed because nothing came to the shelter and the dog was still here this morning.

A big change from yesterday! On the trail at 7:30 under a beautiful clear sky. Going from Muskrat Creek Shelter to Standing Indian Mountain looked challenging - a 1000' rise in two miles. As we approached the bottom of the mountain we came across multiple tents and cars all set up. It was our first taste of Trail Magic, and it was great! They were making omelettes to order, sandwiches to order for the trail and had everything - sweetbreads, fruit, hot chocolate, tea, coffee, coke - you name it. It was an amazing spread. For 18 years in a row this guy who was leading it has come out on Easter morning and made this brunch for thru-hikers. It was our luck that we happened by at just the right time! There were at least 20 thru-hikers there. Mark really chowed down, but I was still full from our breakfast earlier. They were very friendly folks. He had hiked the AT in 1979, and was doing this as a way to pay back all the kindness he received on the trek. It was very cool!

We stayed 45 minutes or so there and were the first ones out. Everybody was chowing down! We left at 11 and headed up Standing Indian Mountain - what a pleasant surprise! It was two miles of well graded trail that was much better than any of the prior trails uphill. It was amazing though that there was no sign at the top for the access trail to the summit. So we rummaged around for a while and found the summit 75 yards to our right, and we're glad we did! A fabulous view, probably at least a 100 mile vista. Looking down you could see the outline of the AT. It still has not greened up here, so with the exception of the Holly trees, Mountain Laurels and the Rhodies, everything else here is leafless. It was cool seeing the trail wind around over a half mile below us. We took some pix, and had some others who were there take a picture of us (I think Bob looks even shorter ... is he wearing down?)

Then we continued cruising on to this place - I already forgot its name. The first shelter we came to looked like an original from the 30's, but Mark had read there was another a little ways past that one, and we found it. Because it was a beautiful day today we are know we've got to pay the price. We are expecting heavy rains tonight and all day tomorrow. We've decided to bite the bullet and stay in the shelter tonight. There are only five of us so far for a 6 person shelter - not as cramped as the Woods Hole Shelter was a couple of days ago. We have learned it is worth putting up with the shelter if weather is coming in, because you can pack up dry and get your waterproofing in order before you leave. The weather radio is calling for lots of rain after midnight and on and off all day tomorrow and into Tuesday morning, then again late on Tuesday. Tomorrow we'll try to get to a shelter that is only 4 miles from the 64 road crossing near Franklin, NC. Then Tuesday we'll hike a 'nero' of 4 miles to the crossing and head into a hotel in Franklin for a meal, resupply, and a day off the trail and so on and so forth.

It was a very good day - as lousy as yesterday was, today was as good. Did 12 miles today, and hope to do 12 tomorrow. Signing off ...

Day 8 - A Really Miserable Day

2009-04-15T13:36:00.005-04:00

"I am talking here on the 11th - a Saturday, Easter Saturday, actually, with tomorrow being Easter Sunday. Let me think ... I'm not sure where I am right now. Hmmm ... Muskrat Creek Shelter, I guess. I am in my tent - the shelter is already overrun with people as a result of the heavy weather we have been having and the large slug of people that had to hole up in the hostels, motels and hotels in Hiawassee.

It was a discouraging day. They were calling for partly sunny and 63 degrees. In fact, it was cloudy all day long and misty at the mountain tops. When we got here it was 48 degrees, and now, at 6pm, it is 40 degrees with a very chilly wind. It's probably due to the elevation here.

Last night we ate at Daniel's Steak House in town. I had fish and shrimp, what with it being Good Friday and all. We resupplied at the Ingles grocery store - this areas answer to Safeway or Giant. got a new watch, replacing my only failed piece of equipment. I was surprised, because it is a Casio that is virtually identical to the one that failed, and I bought that 10 years ago. It's amazing that it is still being sold - it looks like the same vintage!

Got up at 6:45 this morning and had breakfast at the Inn with other hikers. Grabbed the second earliest shuttle back to Dick's Creek Gap and started hiking. We were heading out of Georgia, and she did not give up without a fight. The last 9 miles in Georgia was rough the whole way - very steep climbs. mark and I have decided that the trails in Georgia never miss going directly over the top of the summits of every single mountain. Only a half dozen times in 78 miles did the trail not go right over the top, and then they only slightly missed it to the side.

Finally we came to the border between GA and NC. We were warned that it was pretty non-descript, and that was an overstatement. One small board nailed to a tree - GA on one side, NC on the other. We got out mark's whiteboard and took some photos marking the milestone.

We met 'Ridgerunner' at the famous Bly Oak Tree - I guess fame is in the eye of the beholder. It is an odd looking tree. It was quite windy there. Ridgerunner told us that Georgia was just a warm up for North Carolina. We immediately found that out as we had 3 brutal climbs. The first was a Stairmaster from hell with log steps about two feet high. A very difficult hike. We struggled, but got 12 miles in today. The guys we were hiking with the last couple of days moved on thru and pushed for a shelter 5 miles away, making their daily total 17 miles. We thought about it and said no, don't think so. Mark's shin was bothering him, and I was not without aches, so we thought it would be a little much for us.

Today I tried to hike with less gear on to avoid sweating so much. But I got chilled early and was throughout most of the day. I guess it is another lesson learned - sweating and stay warm is better than being cold.

We ate an early dinner - Mark, I and Rusty (the female I mentioned before). She is from PA, near the center point of the AT. We all ate dinner together and then got our bear bags up. Now we are all in our tents and sleeping bags. It's 7pm and chilly. It has been a cold, raw day. Being in the sleeping bag is as warm as you can get! Tomorrow will be another lengthy day, but it is supposed to be the pick of the litter weather-wise. Supposed to be sunny and in the 60's in the mountains. Tomorrow night there is a line of thunderstorms coming through, so we may push harder to get closer to Franklin, NC, our next resupply point.

Georgia and North Carolina has thrown everything they can at us so far. They have cheated us out of many views with mist and fog, but they did not cheat us out of the tough climbs. We are exhilarated that we have gotten through Georgia, but we have been warned that NC makes GA look like a walk in the park - that's hard to believe! It sounds like it will be challenging all the way through Fontana Dam and up to the Great Smokey's. Mark just sent out a spot, and now it's time to sleep."

The First Week - Day by Day

2009-04-14T10:08:00.020-04:00

Friday, April 10th, 5:18pm EDT - "Okay, this is Bob, and it's, uhmm, I'm not quite sure what day this is. I guess it's Friday, (I've got to think about this for a second) the 9th (actually the 10th). Mark and I are sitting in a little motor hotel called the Hiawassee Inn in Hiawassee, Georgia, a tiny little town. We got off the trail today after doing 11 miles from Tray Mountain to Dick's Creek Gap. We used the cell phone to make arrangements to get this hotel, which was fortunate because this was the last room available in town!

The weather forecast yesterday got us good. They were predicting late afternoon and evening thunderstorms for today. So Mark and I got up at 6:45 this morning and were on the trail by 7:25. It started raining 20 minutes later! We had two fairly heavy lines of thunderstorms come through while we were hiking. On and off rain the rest of the time with the odd bit of brightening and 5 seconds worth of sunshine throughout the course of the day. All in all a challenging hike. We did 11 miles. We arranged to be there by 2:00pm and we made it by 1:40pm. Twenty minutes to spare, and we did that by skipping breakfast and skipping lunch. We just grabbed some quick snacks and water on the trail and just kept on plowing down.

If you looked at the weather radar today, you saw that today was the day that Murfreesboro, TN got wiped out by tornadoes. We are expecting that extremely heavy weather here tonight. The little thunderstorms we had this morning and the rain this afternoon are only a precursor to the show we'll have later tonight.

The Hiawassee Inn is a pretty decent deal. We're getting our clothes washed and dried. We're warming up here. We took showers - they were desperately needed. We both stank like goats after you name it. I'll tell you what - I was telling Mark last night that there was something in my tent that really smelled bad. He laughed and said he had the same problem. I'm afraid it was us. I knew that we were going to smell bad as the summer wore on, but I didn't expect to smell this bad this early in the trip.

Today's hike had two significant hills but it wasn't as brutal as the past couple of days. Some of the downhills are really rough. The trails were very muddy and very slick. We were using our poles and taking it easy. Our boots are basically covered with mud. Trying to get down safely is the top priority. We've been here a week, and Georgia has thrown everything it can at us. Steep climbs, steep downhills, extremely high winds, snow, sleet, temperatures ranging from 19 degrees to 80 degrees, heavy rain, thunderstorms - now I understand why so many people never make it out of Georgia! We were expecting a challenge and we certainly got a challenge.

In any case, we are both feeling pretty good. There are a few twinges here and there and a rubbed raw shoulder, but it's ok. We are at mile marker 67. We have one more day in Georgia. We'll cross the line into North Carolina after finishing Georgia in 8 days and that ain't too shabby. We've actually caught some of the people that were trailburners early on. We saw some of them in town today. Mark had to go pick up a box at the post office before it closed, and saw a couple of the people we saw early on that looked like they were going to race up the trail - Rusty, this girl we met, and this British guy with an umbrella who looked like he was out for a Sunday walk - a fairly elderly gent who looked like he knew what he was doing too. I was surprised that we caught them. I'd thought Rusty would be three days ahead of us by now. She's mid-fifties and wiry. Tough old bird. She's done half the trail before and is trying again one last time. We'll see how that goes.

Tonight we're going in to Daniel's Steak House - another all you can eat place. My watch has decided to die, so I need to find a CVS and try to buy myself a watch as well. I think our next off trail day is going to be four days from now. Saturday and Sunday are supposed to be nice, Monday showery, and Tuesday a few showers, and then it's supposed to get nice again. So we'll probably be - well, I'm not sure where we're going to be! It will be somewhere in North Carolina. We'll go to one of the hotels or motels or hostels there. Signing off now just before 6pm on Good Friday. It's been a heck of a week!"

Thursday, April 9th - "Day 6 here on the recorder. Sorry about the wind noise as I record here. It's about 5:30 in the afternoon and a beautiful day here. Around 75 degrees here with a cool breeze. We're at a place called Tray Mountain Shelter - beautiful overlook with a 1,000 foot drop. Looking out over a valley with just a little hint of civilization - twenty mile vista, but pretty remote here.

We got up this morning around 7:00. It was pretty chilly but not ridiculous. Got on the trail around 7:30. Planned on getting at least to Tray Mountain, maybe further. It will be a thin day tomorrow. We are only 7 - 8 miles away from our next resupply point in Hiawassee, Georgia, and maybe a day off the trail. It will be a 'nero' day (a near zero hiking day). Well, with 7 miles to go to get there, I guess it won't really be a 'nero' day.

Today we climbed two major mountains, each with over a 1,000' climb, and most of a third mountain. They were brutal. A difficult and trying day. In between the mountains the temperature rose to over 80 in the valleys - they felt really hot.

Last night we saw a pack of hog hunting dogs and a couple of guys. Apparently there are a lot of feral pigs in the hills. They keep after them with dogs and hunters to trim 'em back some. The dogs had radio collars on. In fact, when we got to Blue Mountain Shelter we found one of them there. he was very skittish - would not come near us, but hung around the shelter. They must be trained to go to a shelter or where people are if they lose their pack. They'll be found eventually because of their radio collars. They are very expensive animals, of course. It is a little distressing that there are that many hogs in the Southern US. They are dangerous, even more dangerous than bears, because they will attack if they even think you are a threat to them. That's tough to work through.

We did 10 miles today with three mountains - tough climbing. We'll camp out tonight under beautiful skies. No need for the tarp tonight - just my tent. The gnats here are incredible! It's amazing really. 3 days ago we had 19 degrees and blowing snow. Now, it's near 70 degrees with 80 degrees in the valleys. Mark is shot, and I'm not far behind him. We're both carrying 40 to 45 pounds. Others are at 30 - 35. We thought we knew what we were doing! They are just more hardcore, I guess. But then again, we didn't suffer as much as some of them in the snow because we had the gear and clothing! And there maybe more snow in the Great Smokeys, so I think we're ok.

We're about at mile 60. Probably two to three more days in Georgia. Not bad - we'll knock off Georgia in 10 days. Yesterday we did 15 miles. We did 10 today. We are making pretty good time. We've met a lot of people on the trail - some will be easy to forget, others I'd like to get to know. Everyone is doing the trail differently. I think we are doing it more rationally than most.

Had a full moon last night. We might get one tonight, but there is a high overcast coming in. Should sleep well tonight!

Wednesday, April 8th - Well, it's the 8th, I believe. I am sitting in my tent at the intersection of something Jack Trail and the AT. A very, very long day. Mile marker 46, I believe. Quite a bit further along than we thought we'd be.

After I talked to you in the restaurant last night, we went to the grocery store and got four days worth of food. Probably only needed three days after how far we went today. It is a learning experience, judging how much food one person needs per day. All of Mark's and my food experience is with a dozen people at Philmont.

We went back to the cabins after that and spent a little time reorganizing our gear. Went to bed early, and despite the warm cabin and comfortable bunks had a fitful night of sleep because the darn furnace kept turning on and shutting off about every 15 seconds, making a racket every time.

Woke up at 7 to a chilly morning - maybe 35 degrees. The skies had cleared dramatically overnight - a big difference to see the blue! The last bit of snow was melting. We got the shuttle back to Neel's Gap, and Mark went in and bought a couple of meals. We had shipped some of our gear home as a result of the reorganizing, but I think I only saved about a pound - Mark saved more than that. Always trying to trim down. Got going on the trail around 9:30 - it was warm and beautiful. Then it got warmer and warmer, enough that we were rapidly stripping off layers. Fabulous views today. We hit a particularily brutal climb - Wildcat Mountain - Mark and I will remember that one for a long time. We're doing a lot better on our hiking. We had no caterpillars at all today. We took a couple of minor breaks, mostly at the top of hills or summits, and then kept moving right along.

The first 6 or 7 miles that morning after Neel's Gap was designated a no-camping zone by the National Park Service because of a particularily aggressive bear. He apparently was attacking campsites for food. The next designated site was 11 miles in from the gap, but we knew that everybody who had holed up in town off trail from the snow would be stopping there. We pressed on and were pushing for a campsite called Poplar Stamp that apparently doesn't exist. We saw a few single tent campsites and kept going on, eventually throwing in with Chester and Sam (who we have seen several times), plus a middle aged lady named Robin (she goes by the name 'One Track') and a couple of kids who apparently were substitute teachers. We were all going along and the campsite never appeared. We kept on going and the sun was going down. We kept going until we came across (unexpectedly) this trail crossing. We planned on doing 11 or 12 today, and ended up doing over 15.5 miles. We didn't know we had come this far. We are sore. Got in about 7:15 or so within an hour of dusk. I put up my tent and Mark slept on the ground. We did not have a cooked dinner - just ate cold stuff. Put up my bear bag. Water was about a half mile away. Took care of that, and helped Robin and the kids with their bear bags. Beautiful sunset to the west, at the same time coming up is a big moon. Very, very windy. That's what kept us going, as the other potential campsites we passed were very exposed to the wind. This site by Jack's Trail is much better protected, cut in behind a bank. We ended up getting a better site by keeping going even though we didn't know it at the time.

We're looking forward to the next couple of days. Tomorrow should be nice and warm, and tomorrow night there is the possibility of thunderstorms. Then Friday it is supposed to rain all day, so we will probably have a challenging day. We may try to stay in Hiawassee. it's about 21 miles away - a couple of good days should put us there. Today was the most difficult day so far. The climbs are tough - not much in the way of switchbacks, but we kept motoring along."

Tuesday, April 7th - "Yesterday was our third day on the trail. Am sitting in Goose Creek Cabin #7. Last night the shelter was pretty full - 8 people in a shelter designed for 6. We were all wedged in. Others camped outside the shelter, including a group with an odd nylon wall tent set up right outside of the shelter. The wind and snow got worse quickly - it was blowing very hard. We ate early, and everyone was done eating by 6:30. Got to bed early, primarily for warmth. Pretty nippy overnight - well below freezing. We weren't expecting the combination of 40mph winds and snow. Just unbelievable.

Met some interesting people - Bruce and Dot. Bruce was in between jobs (or maybe lives). Raised money for the trip by being a medical guinea pig for experiments. Cleared a grand total of $2500 over the past year. Most of his gear was homemade stuff sewn together. Got a lot of gear for free from Scout troops. Others there at the shelter we were familiar with already, even so early in the hike. There were even a couple of dogs.

I was on the edge of being cold all night. It was probably down to 20 degrees or below. Got up at 7:30 and we got out of there quickly. It was still snowing moderately with an inch or snow already on the ground. We were first down the hill, then headed up the next hill. We passed a few campsites where there was no signs of life yet in the tents. I think that was the Flora Creek site. Caught up with Boy Scout Troop 556 out of Warner Robins, GA - a Philmont crew. Several kids were overly cold over the night, so they had split up and some headed down to get some vehicles to warm up.

Scaled Blood Mountain and it wasn't as atrocious as I expected. It was a tough climb. The Philmont crew went with us and they set an easy pace as we chatted. Stopped at the shelter at the top of the hill. The wind was really blowing. Nobody was there. The kids were parched because they didn't know the old NY Boy Scout trick of sleeping with your water so it doesn't freeze, or at least turning your bottle upside down so it freezes at the bottom first. All their water was frozen, so I doled out all of mine except for a cup. Their adult leaders were very grateful. Mark and did share a little water later.

It was a struggle to refind the trail. Many of the blazes at the tops of mountains were on rocks. Well, all the rocks were covered by snow! It took us a half hour to find the trail again. Some of the scouts were getting nervous watching us floundering about looking for the trail. But we pressed on and headed down the mountain. I had one minor spill. I suppose I should be grateful that that was it all considering the conditions - extremely rugged. We meandered down the hill to Neel's Gap. Bagged the hostel and headed for the Goose Creek Cabins instead. Bought some gloves. We were very grateful to be warming up and drying out. Headed to town for dinner and grocery shopping."

Monday, April 6th - "It's the 6th of April and we are in Woods Hole Shelter at mile marker 26.6. It is day 3 of our trek and it is 29 degrees with 10 - 30mph winds with some higher gusts. Snowing today and brutally cold. There are 8 people in the shelter that is designed for 6. Some others are tent camping. I thought about it, but when we got here at 4pm, it was sleeting, so I decided to bite the bullet and sleep inside the shelter.

Started off around 7:30 this morning with temperatures around 39 degrees, clouds and very little sun. It looked ok, but the wind really picked up through the day. Did nearly 12 miles today - more than we planned, but it puts us within striking distance of Neel's Gap. We got to this break pont today and decided to stay here rather than the next one up the line. This one is 1/2 mile off the trail and less likely to be crowded. There is only other couple here.

A routine day with lots of hard hiking and lots of uphills. Met a couple of Scout troops training for Philmont. It was so windy in one of the gaps where we met them that the conversation was very limited - basically good luck and see ya!

It's cold. Mark coined this our 'Adventure in Winterland'. It is not the conditions we were expecting starting our trek in the south in early April. Today, tomorrow, and the next day are all supposed to be quite cold with high winds. It's 30 degrees right now and we are going to bed, because basically inside your sleeping bag is the warmest spot we've got. It is going well though. We are still learning our way here. You'd think two long term scoutmasters would know what they were doing, but we still have a learning curve to overcome.

Tomorrow we go over Blood Mountain and then down to Neel's Gap and to a hotel. We are not going to the hostel, as we hear that it is pretty groaty and would be difficult to get a good night's sleep."

Sunday, April 5th - "It's 1:50pm and we are at Gooch Gap Shelter, which is about mile marker 16. Quite a warm day, not clear though. Overcast all day. We are expecting heavy weather tonight. We will stay here at the shelter if there aren't too many people that show up.
Yesterday, when we were at the top of Springer, we met a guy who was signing in (or out?) people who were going to thru-hike the AT. He made an interesting remark in that only about a thousand people have attempted in over the past couple of years. Mark and I said that he must have been kidding us, because we heard that it was several thousand a year who were doing it, but he insisted that it was only about a thousand overall.

About 75 degrees today despite 'hiking with winter'. The trees here are not green at all - it's just like Arlington. Met Scout groups yesterday and today - one was a quasi Philmont crew who was going in 2010.

Left the shelter last night after dinner, did the extra 1.5 miles. We were up at 7 this morning after a beautiful night. We left at 7:30 and hiked to the top of an overlook. The proceeded down to the gap before Sassafras and had breakfast. Continued on over Sassafras Mountain - a real gut buster. We used 20 step caterpillars - they worked ok, keeping us fresh and going. This climb will break the hearts of many people who think they are going to thru-hike the AT. It's steep! We pounded it out, but other people without a hiking skill setswill have problems.
Down across Justice (sic?) Creek where we met another scout troop. Up to Gooch Gap Shelter which was nice! A brand new privy! There was a spring for water, not a creek, which was nice. Pathetic campsites though. Right now I am sitting in the shelter and mark is pursuing his favorite program activity - napping. I think I'll get some water out and clean up a little and even shave. I'm sure everyone will appreciate it.

Mark's weather band radio has been screaming out the warning of heavy weather coming in. It's hard to believe, with the sun and a nice warm breeze. We may not make it to Neel's Gap until day 4. We are trying to heed the advice of people to not overreach early and wear ourselves out. We'll hit the GPS spot next, sign the register, and see who shows up at the shelter!"

Saturday, April 4th - "Hey, this is Bob. It's April 4th - Saturday, and we finished our first day on the trail. mark & I have settled in for the night. It's around 6:30pm.

We got up at 5:30 this morning and the Wray family and I went to McDonald's for breeakfast. After breakfast I set down my pack to go do some stuff and when I came back, I noticed that I had set it by room 111 - fricking weird (Mark is laughing in the background.) Survivor Dave had said it would take about 1 1/2 hours to get to the Springer Mountain parking lot, which is one mile north of Springer Mountain on the trail - he was dead on. We got there around 8am. There were lots of people there, including 'Mountain Squid', a hiking legend here and a main contributor to whiteblaze.net, a website dedicated to hiking the AT. He was very friendly and there encouraging people who were heading out. We headed up the 1 mile trail to the top of Springer, the beginning of a northbounder's trek. We left at about 8:20 after taking sometime to say goodbye to all the Wrays. After about 65 goodbyes we got moving. It was quite cold and very windy. mark said that he was told we'd be hiking with the spring, but it sure feels like we're hiking with winter. We signed in at the top of Springer. Great views from there!It was 41 degrees with 30mph winds. I got one picture (I think) and then we turned around and headed back down the trail to the parking lot. Met a young group of Scouts who reluctantly admitted they were Scouts that were out for a weekend hike. Got back to the lot, chatted with Mountain Squid again and then took off north.

The day's conditions improved rapidly. As Mark and I were hiking, we met 4 or 5 people who we just looked at, looked at each other, and said 'Neel's Gap'. These were people who had no clue as to what was ahead of them, and would most likely drop out at Neel's Gap. One poor lady badly sprained her knee just a few miles out and was done on Day 1. Several other folks were hurting too. Stopped for dinner and chatted for about 15 minutes with an elderly guy from Florida. He was in rough shape - he looked like he was ready to go home. I gave him some basic trail advice and wished him well. Daypack hiking experience does not prepare you for the AT.
We ate on the trail. Everyone agrees that we have too much food. The weather kept getting better. It actually felt hot, maybe 70 degrees. We were sweating pretty good. We ended up at Hawk Mountain Shelter. We had done about 9 miles, including the 1 mile down the trail to get to the start at Springer. The shelter was a disaster. There was food and trash everywhere, and even left over gear that had been abandoned - some of it new. It reinforced our decision to only stay in shelters if the weather was really bad.

We hiked until about 4pm. Met a Cub Scout (James) and his dad who were camping here. We got along famously. He wants to join an active troop, but it seems to me his dad is already doing more than most troops do.

It's funny. We keep running into people who keep saying they're 'definitely going all the way'. Mark and I simply say that we're 'attempting' to do the whole thing. Just a different way of looking at it, I guess.

We decided after dinner to push on - the shelter was a mess. We left Hawk Mountain - the gnats were ferocious - and went on to the next hill. This was a departure from our pre-hike plan of doing 8 each day for the first few days. But we felt ok and we're glad we knocked it off. It was a steep downhill and a steep climb. I'm not sure of its name, but it's not quite to Sassafras Mountain. We found a campsite. It was overgrown with growth and brush, but we finally found two clear spots. Perfect weather tonight - no need for tarps, just tents. Blue skies, a few spotty clouds. Cell coverage is spotty here, so I'm not going to throw away money and try to call.
It was our first day and we lived through it. We didn't break anything! We saw a lot of people who clearly are not going to make it (Mark laughed out loud in the background.) They say it takes about 3 weeks to become trail hardened. We're pretty pleased so far. We're learning. It's new for us - we don't have a bunch of scouts to take care of. It's just us. We have excess food and gear that we don't need, our pakcs still need adjusting, but all in all it was a solid first day!"

Day 6 - Spring Returns at Tray Mountain

2009-04-10T12:43:00.004-04:00

April 9th, 5:16PM EDT - "Hey! It's Thursday the 9th at about 5 in the afternoon. I'm sitting in a place called Tray Mountain Shelter (elev. 4200'). Beautiful day down here, about 70 degrees, maybe 80. We did about 10 miles today, but we are about shot, so we're going to camp here.

The connection here is very weak, so I don't think I'm going to try to download my various blog entries from my digital recorder. (Ed. - OMG! He's storing these 'blog' entries up ... I'm going to be transcribing for days when he finds a good signal!) Just wanted to let you know that we are ok. Tomorrow we are actually hiking to a road crossing and taking a shuttle into Hiawassee, Georgia (Ed. - mile 66.8 on the trail, town is 11 miles from the crossing). There we will be staying in a hotel tomorrow night which, fortuitously, happens to be a night with heavy thunderstorms predicted for the northeast Georgia mountains. This is the way we're doing things - every few days get off the trail, resupply, stay in a hostel or hotel or cabin like the other night (Ed. - and hopefully take a shower ...).

So far we seem to be doing ok. We've done about 60 miles in 6 days, so we're right on a ten mile a day pace, although it's been up and down - yesterday we did 15, today we did 10. I will have more later on, but with the weak signal I'm going to stop here."

Day 4 - Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow ... in April?

2009-04-10T11:51:00.004-04:00

April 7th, 7:59pm EDT - "I'm calling on the 7th, which I think is a Tuesday. We're sitting in a restaurant in Blairsville, Georgia (Ed. - about 15 miles NW of Neels Gap) after Mark and I got snowed off the trail today. We had pretty significant snow, cold and ice out on the trail today, so we did about 4 miles to Neels Gap, which is the 30 mile point. We're pretty much on schedule. This will be a brief update, because the resaturant is noisy, and I can't play my digital recordings here. I don't know how that will work, but I will try to find a quiet spot later to play you my recordings. I have made one for each day that we have been out here - Saturday, Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday. I think it's Tuesday, right? I hate to say it, but I don't know what day it is. I do know it is the 7th, but that's about all I can tell you right now. If I can't find a quiet spot, the next place you're likely to hear from me is about 4 days from now at mile 67 in Hiawassee, Georgia (Ed. - Hiawassee is on the Georgia/NC border. Hiawassee is a Cherokee name meaning 'meadow')

Things have been going well, other than the fact that we have had an unbelievable range of temperatures. I think on Sunday it actually hit 80 degrees, and then on Monday a brutally cold front came through. We woke up this morning, Tuesday I guess it is, and it was 19 degrees at Woods Hole Shelter (Ed. - 26.6 miles up the trail, 2140.5 to Katahdin - elevation 3600 ft., half mile off the AT) which is where we were camping. It was brutally cold with 40 mph winds, snow and ice. We are in the Goose Creek Cabins (Ed. - 1/2 mile north of Vogel State Park) tonight after hiking to Neels Gap and grabbing the shuttle to town. We avoided the hostels at Neels Gap as they do not have the most savory reputation. They were full anyways - well, we could have had the last two bunks in a twenty bed room, but the cabin was only $7 more than the hostel, so we grabbed that by taking the shuttle to Blairsville. We warmed up, cleaned up and now are in town resupplying and getting dinner. Neels Gap is the 30 mile point, so we are pretty much on schedule.

Other than the ferocious conditions, things are going well. Even with all of our Philmont training, neither Mark or I were prepared to face anything quite like what we've seen here so far with several inches of snow, 20 degrees and 40 mph winds. Mark has had the best line so far on the trip - "we're supposed to be hiking with the spring time, but we're actually hiking with the winter time". That's the best way to describe it so far. We're definitely looking forward to a little bit warmer weather later on this week.

Right now I'm going to stop because it's getting noisy in here. We need to get to the grocery store and pick up some stuff. Talk to you later!" (Ed - no other call came in that day from Bob)

Day 0 - Staging at Springer Mountain

2009-04-04T09:18:00.007-04:00

Two calls from Bob from room 118 of the Days Inn in Dahlonega, GA near Springer Mountain on the day before ... (Ed. note - he does not lack any details ... )

CALL 1 -- 10:26AM "Took off this morning at 6:08 from Reagan National and quickly broke out of the clouds and rain. Skies cleared over North Carolina, but then started to cloud up again as we approached Atlanta. Landed in low overcast and breezy conditions at 7:37 (and we were on a 737, an interesting coincidence) at Hartsfield. Lots of military at the airport, probably from Fort Benning. Took the train to the main terminal and collected my pack. The yellow dry cleaner bag was mostly shredded - the subject of some rough handling but the pack was intact. The airport is huge. Felt like it took as long to go from the D concourse to the main terminal as it did to fly from DC. Found the MARTA easily and it took about 45 minutes to get to the northern terminus of the system. Met up with Survivor Dave, my shuttle guy, right on time (thank goodness, 'cause he was in a hurry!) and we headed for Dahlonega, about an hour's drive. It was a nice drive and I was the only guy on the shuttle, so we talked as he drove. You remember the Washington Post article's comment about 10 percent dropping out by Neel's Gap? Dave said it was probably more like 20 percent, maybe 25 percent who drop out there.

I've got a nice view of the mountains to the north (picture above is from Bob's new cell phone)here from my motel room. The weather is similar to DC - 45 degrees and cloudy with a breeze. The town is small but nice. I am going to go get some breakfast/lunch here in a few minutes, but I have a few random musings for you.

It took us one hour twenty-nine (1:29) to fly here from DC. It will take me about two and a half months to cover that distance going back. It sort of puts the whole 18th/19th century thing in perspective. They had to walk everywhere!

Someone commented to me upon seeing my pack that what I was about to embark on was primitive living. I laughed and suggested to him that it was very sophisticated living. He seemed nonplussed until I explained. I told him I had a digital recorder that would record 300 hours of my thoughts about the journey. I had a digital camera that I could take and save over a thousand pictures. I have a cell phone to contact people if I need to and to report in with updates. All of my equipment is nearly state-of-the-art. This is not exactly Daniel Boone or Jeremiah Johnson. It was simple living, but not primitive. He agreed with my analysis.

Spring has sprung in Georgia, but it is approximately the same as Arlington - a few buds here and there and some green. Time for some lunch!"

CALL 2 -- 8:26PM "Dusk here and I wanted to get one more free call in today (Ed. note - He has a pay as you go Verizon phone with a daily rate). Went to the McDonald's across the street not so much to eat but also to learn how to use my digital recorder, which I did figure out. I will use that on days that I don't have cell coverage to record my thoughts and then maybe play it into the phone on my weekly calls (Ed - that's gonna be fun to try to transcribe ...).

I came back to the room and decided to tear my pack apart yet again. I told you before that I was appalled at how much my pack weighed. I think I dumped about 5 pounds worth of stuff, including the extra food. Talking to Survivor Dave (who has done the AT) on the way up convinced me that I only needed to carry about 5 - 6 pounds of food, not the 10 pounds I had packed. Mark Wray is carrying much more food than that, but I think that I'm gonna go with the guy who's done this before and his recommendation. I think, all told, with food and water I will be starting out with about a 40 - 42 pound load. I wanted to be at 35 pounds but 42 it isn't too bad considering I am carrying a little extra food and some extra clothes because I'm leery about the weather situation here. The weather is supposed to be nice on Saturday, our first day - about 75 and sunny. Sunday is supposed to start out ok but cloud up in the afternoon and rain. Then Monday has a chance of snow! I hope it doesn't snow a lot, but I am going to carry a few extra clothes. You know that ratty jacket I wore down that I was going to throw away? I'm keeping it for a few days until I get by the Monday weather, and then I'll make the decision to keep it or dump it. The rest of my extra stuff will go back to Virginia with Brenda Wray.

I am continuing to learn the camera. I've got to watch it and not become too seduced by all the technology I am carrying - the camera, the recorder, the phone. I don't need to become a techno-geek all of a sudden - it's not exactly what I had in mind. But it sure is convenient!

The Wrays arrived at around 5:30pm and they were pretty wrung out from the long twelve hour drive. They had come the whole way, and the first half was in rain. I gave them an hour to get settled and then I treated the four of them to dinner at the Wagon Wheel, Dahlonega's finest southern style cuisine! We had a great meal and it only cost about $60 for the five of us. The last supper, if you will. I was good - I had shrimp. No meat for me, baby! It's Friday during Lent.

Mark and I got together afterwords and he showed me what food he was carrying. It sure was a lot, but Mark is willing to carry the extra food. He said it will probably slow him down. I'm not trying to be a minimalist here, but I am trying to balance between what I was told I need to carry and worrying about having enough food to handle being snowed in somewhere. Our first resupply point is 30 miles up the line at Neel's Gap, about three days, so I should be good.

Now it's time to bag out and get some sleep. I've been burning the midnight oil for many days, and I think I need a good night's sleep before I get started. You may not hear from me for some time, perhaps a week or two. Don't forget to mail my taxes for me! I don't need to have the IRS hunting me down in the North Carolina mountains for back taxes or whatever other sins I have committed that I don't even know about yet! See ya!"

(Ed. - I don't think the IRS would stand a chance of finding him if he didn't want to be found ...)

He's off!

2009-04-03T08:05:00.003-04:00

His pack enshrouded in a yellow dry cleaner's bag, adorned in a ratty Marine Corps Marathon shirt and pants that even Goodwill would probably reject, our favorite northbounder shook my hand and ambled towards the terminal through a an early morning spring rain. He look more tired than I've ever seen him, brought on by the last week's flurry of final preparations that had limited his sleep to an average of less than three hours per night. But even through his zombie-like stare was an unmistakeable look of excitement tinged with a touch of trepidation. Although we all know that when Bob says he's going to do something you can pretty much bank on it, I think that even he was a little amazed with himself and that he was finally on the way.

By now he has landed in Atlanta, and should be trying to negotiate his way through the jungle that is Hartsfield International. Assuming that the airline didn't lose his pack (it didn't go with Mark - packing problems), he'll meet up with his ride to Springer Mountain where he will check into a motel and wait for Mark to join him. Hopefully, he'll try to get some sleep, because if he decides to walk around town, they may cast him in a remake of Return of the Living Dead. Then, early tomorrow morning, he and Mark will saddle up and start trekking north.

Bob said that he would try to provide an update prior departure. If he does, I'll post it this weekend. Say a prayer for our tired trekker ...

The adventure begins ...

2009-03-31T10:57:00.003-04:00

Decades of dreaming, years of work & training, and an intense 8 months of preparation comes to fruition this Friday morning as Dr. Bob heads for National Airport at "oh dark thirty" with "throwaway clothes" and no luggage. His destination? Georgia, specifically Springer Mountain, the southern terminus of the AT. There he will meet up with his pack and his trail partner Mark Wray (TR 167) and on Saturday morning will take the first of approximately 5 million steps on his trek to Katahdin, Maine, the northern terminus of the AT.

Assuming he doesn't "take 30 steps and break an ankle" as he so colorfully put it, he will be calling in updates every so often, which will be transcribed into this blog. It will chronicle the thoughts, observations and musings of his 5 1/2 month, 2,178 mile journey as a 'northbounder' on America's most celebrated footpath, the Appalachian National Scenic Trail, or just simply the AT.

Not many I know have the intestinal fortitude to do what Bob and Mark are doing - quitting their jobs, putting their city lives on hold (with all the inane details and trappings of making sure that everything is taken care of while their gone), and venture off to test themselves physically and mentally for almost half a year. I wish them well (and wish that I could join them ...). Godspeed!